Sorry the title isn't worded a bit better - here's the deal. I found a powder coater to paint my frame. I randomly overheard what might have been an approximate oven temperature of about 400 degrees - is this hot enough to damage my lugged frame? I thought I'd ask here first but will check the Frame Builders' sub-forum if thats more appropriate.
A quick question - what is the potential fallout from not masking the head tube? I'm hoping this business will do it right - but it'd be nice to know the fix if any issues come up.
Fall out? ...You won't even be able to get them IN!
Sorry, joking aside, you would have to remove the powdercoating from inside and the ends of the headtube. Without a very expensive tool, it's tricky at best. Powdercoating is VERY difficult to remove from where it's not wanted.
That's why I mentioned to be SURE they mask the headtube, seat tube & bottom bracket.
It's just way more of a PITA if they don't!
A Pro bike shop should be able to chase & face those areas, but it'll co$t ya!
As for the bottle boss holes, rear deraileur hanger, etc. you could put bolts in the bottle boss holes and an old deraileur hanger bolt in that hole. Just be sure not to screw them in all the way. Leave just a couple of threads showing. And if you need to reuse the bolts, just soak them in a jar of lacquer thinner for a few days and the PC will come right off.
And a final note: If you are happy with the powdercoat job, please list their name & contact info in the Frame Painters sticky in the C&V forum so that others might find them more easily.
So the entire interior of the head tube needs to be masked, or just the first couple of inches on both ends?
An inch or so inside each end is good.
And you will still have to clean up the ends with a razor, or have the headtube faced & chased.
This also applies to the BB shell.
Originally Posted by BDS
They said they'd mask the BB threads - but I'll have to be sure to check on the other threaded areas.
And the seat tube! That should be masked at least 3 inches in!
All the small threads can easily be retapped with $10 worth of tools from the hardware store.
AND ANOTHER spot to MASK! The fork crown race seat!!!
Many folks don't have the tool to remove the fork crown race, so be sure to mask the race!
If you DO remove the fork crown race, then mask the part of the steer tube where the race seats onto the crown.
And masking the threads (if any) at the top of the steer tube is a good idea.
No powder where you DON'T want it!
Originally Posted by repechage
An image or better two of the seat lug, powdercoat after a year or two is where the difference with wet paint starts.
I'll take a shot at it though.
Are you saying that ...you'de like to see a couple of pictures of the seat cluster after 2 years of use,
then you will see why wet paint is so much better/worse than powdercoat?
As well as I can understand Yoda, that was still a bit tough.
But continue the conversation with myself, that YOU started...
If the powdercoat is looking somewhat compromised after two years of use, this is why I constantly indicate getting a clear coat, wether it's clear powdercoat or clear automotive paint, to build durability & longevity into the new finish.