Cleaning old decals?
#1
Elitist Troglodyte
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 6,925
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Cleaning old decals?
1970 (?) Schwinn Varsity. Decals - white/cream on blue paint - are nearly intact, but pretty dirty. What can I use to clean them that won't damage them?
The one on the seat tube looks almost like a paper label, but feels like a decal. The script on the down tube I cleaned the end where there is some some paint damage with Simple Green and it seemed to clean up pretty well. But I don't want to use anything that will cause long-term deterioration.
The one on the seat tube looks almost like a paper label, but feels like a decal. The script on the down tube I cleaned the end where there is some some paint damage with Simple Green and it seemed to clean up pretty well. But I don't want to use anything that will cause long-term deterioration.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
#2
Señor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,923
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1491 Post(s)
Liked 1,090 Times
in
638 Posts
1970 (?) Schwinn Varsity. Decals - white/cream on blue paint - are nearly intact, but pretty dirty. What can I use to clean them that won't damage them?
The one on the seat tube looks almost like a paper label, but feels like a decal. The script on the down tube I cleaned the end where there is some some paint damage with Simple Green and it seemed to clean up pretty well. But I don't want to use anything that will cause long-term deterioration.
The one on the seat tube looks almost like a paper label, but feels like a decal. The script on the down tube I cleaned the end where there is some some paint damage with Simple Green and it seemed to clean up pretty well. But I don't want to use anything that will cause long-term deterioration.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#3
Chrome Freak
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kuna, ID
Posts: 3,208
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 26 Times
in
14 Posts
I used Blue Coral clear coat polishing compound, a very mild abrasive on mine with good results. Of course, I was very careful and scrubbed lightly!
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#4
Stop reading my posts!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,583
Mentioned: 90 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times
in
787 Posts
A friend who does restoration/conservation work on antiques and artwork has told me the method he follows when dealing with an "unknown": start with plain distilled water on a cotton swab, then spit, then water with a special liquid soap the experts use called Vipurex (I might substitute Murphy's Oil Soap). Only after that fails does he try solvents or abrasives, and it's always the least volatile and mildest abrasives first. Just sharing...
Last edited by unworthy1; 09-29-07 at 08:58 PM.
#7
Elitist Troglodyte
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 6,925
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
A friend who does restoration/conservation work on antiques and artwork has told me the method he follows when dealing with an "unknown": start with plain distilled water on a cotton swab, then spit, then water with a special liquid soap the experts use called Vipuva (I might substitute Murphy's Oil Soap). Only after that fails does he try solvents or abrasives, and it's always the least volatile and mildest abrasives first. Just sharing...
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers