Mystery Mountain Bike (lots of pics)
#1
Viking Warrior
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Location: Bristol, CT
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Bikes: 60's SpaceLiner, 60's Ross Futura, 60's Sears spyder, 70's Zebrakenko, 98 Ross Chimera Hybrid, 90's Schwinn Frontier, and ThunderHorse, my trusty mountain steed, also my gf's 64 Schwinn ladies cruiser and her purple lowrider are at my disposal.
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Mystery Mountain Bike (lots of pics)
I've had this MTB since the summer, when the driver of an SUV that hit me gave it to me to make up for wrecking my other bike. I've been riding it since, but I never was able to determine what kind of bike it is. All signs point to a lower-end bike, but it has a few decent components that lead me to believe it's slightly better than a generic x-mart bike. The Shimano derailleurs have been out of whack since I got it though, even after a professional tune-up, so I am thinking of just stripping them and turning the bike into a single speed snow monster for the winter. Either way, I'd still like to know what I am working with, if anyone can tell me anything about it. Here are a lot of pictures, let me know if there is something else I should photograph and I will get it up here. Also, all of the pictures can be viewed extra large on my flickr page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/joeymac
there are no decals on the bike besides what I put on there and the shimano decals.
Not sure if this fork came on the bike or was installed later.
SERIAL: L970301757
Thanks for looking!
there are no decals on the bike besides what I put on there and the shimano decals.
Not sure if this fork came on the bike or was installed later.
SERIAL: L970301757
Thanks for looking!
#2
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Unfortunately i believe that it is an x-mart type bike. The RD is a generic Shimano SIS. Sorry pal.
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A rather cheap bike unfortunately, looks department store. Not surprised the derailleur system hasn't been working properly, they usually don't on department store bikes even when they're brand new, components are just junk. If I find a department store bike that I want to actually be utilized, I do like you're thinking and turn it into a singlespeed.
#4
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I like the marketing line, though. "EZ Fire". That woulda worked great tatooed on my ex-wife's forehead...
#5
Viking Warrior
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Bikes: 60's SpaceLiner, 60's Ross Futura, 60's Sears spyder, 70's Zebrakenko, 98 Ross Chimera Hybrid, 90's Schwinn Frontier, and ThunderHorse, my trusty mountain steed, also my gf's 64 Schwinn ladies cruiser and her purple lowrider are at my disposal.
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Well, it's good to finally know. Now I won't feel bad about tearing it down to basics and subjecting it to the harsh Rochester winter. And now I have an excuse to finally go spend some real money for a decent Mountainer Thanks for being frank and letting me know what I had, even if it is a cheap piece of junk. One other question though, is that fork original? Or is that an add-on?
#6
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It looks like that's a 1", threaded steerer on that DuoTrack 7007. If that's correct, the fork may be the most valuable part on the bike. The 7007 is an elastomer fork, not a coil spring. While not high end, I wouldn't catagorize it as an entry level fork (in it's day). A similiar model fork was OEM on the 1994 Nishiki Bushwacker. I have a 7007 and like it when comparing it to entry level, coil spring forks.
BTW, is that shifter/brake lever combo correct for that bike? I have an almost identical model on a frame up build. I chose it because the levers are compatible with V brakes, NOT cantilever brakes, like you have on that bike. Do the brakes work OK?
BTW, is that shifter/brake lever combo correct for that bike? I have an almost identical model on a frame up build. I chose it because the levers are compatible with V brakes, NOT cantilever brakes, like you have on that bike. Do the brakes work OK?
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I think i recognise that five point mag wheel thing on the chain rings .It looks plastic.I had one broken half way and ripped the rest of it off.welcome to the club.
#8
feros ferio
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The welds look like cr@p.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#9
Viking Warrior
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Bikes: 60's SpaceLiner, 60's Ross Futura, 60's Sears spyder, 70's Zebrakenko, 98 Ross Chimera Hybrid, 90's Schwinn Frontier, and ThunderHorse, my trusty mountain steed, also my gf's 64 Schwinn ladies cruiser and her purple lowrider are at my disposal.
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It looks like that's a 1", threaded steerer on that DuoTrack 7007. If that's correct, the fork may be the most valuable part on the bike. The 7007 is an elastomer fork, not a coil spring. While not high end, I wouldn't catagorize it as an entry level fork (in it's day). A similiar model fork was OEM on the 1994 Nishiki Bushwacker. I have a 7007 and like it when comparing it to entry level, coil spring forks.
BTW, is that shifter/brake lever combo correct for that bike? I have an almost identical model on a frame up build. I chose it because the levers are compatible with V brakes, NOT cantilever brakes, like you have on that bike. Do the brakes work OK?
BTW, is that shifter/brake lever combo correct for that bike? I have an almost identical model on a frame up build. I chose it because the levers are compatible with V brakes, NOT cantilever brakes, like you have on that bike. Do the brakes work OK?
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It's definitely low end and probably an X-mart bicycle. Skipping gears could be a tight link in the chain, especially if the problem is predominant in smaller cogs. The other thing that happens a lot, is the bicycles getting dropped or laid down on the derailleur side, causing the hanger to bend. This often causes you to lose the small cogs and usually manifests itself with the derailleur shifting into the spokes on the large cogs. This of course is assuming that someone has not be playing around with the travel adjustment screws or cable tension.
#12
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Anyone notice what appears to be forged rear drops? and the two eyelets? I think it would make a fine SS/FG remove that front shock, sell it and slap on a straight fork with some eyelets on it and itll make a fine commuter too! the welds may be ugly but I bet theyll hold up just fine
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You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve