Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#2477
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I couldn't resist being on page 100. Found this well cared for Colnago X-Lite on a bicycling forum in France and negotiated for delivery to Sweden. Probably from around 2000, since it has original Shimano Ultegra 6500 components. Just need to find an original alloy crank.
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
#2478
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I couldn't resist being on page 100. Found this well cared for Colnago X-Lite on a bicycling forum in France and negotiated for delivery to Sweden. Probably from around 2000, since it has original Shimano Ultegra 6500 components. Just need to find an original alloy crank.
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
I had one for a few years and thoroughly enjoyed it.
While an alloy crank may look better, I am pleased to hear you are piling on the miles.
I really like the fork btw, as mine had the chrome Precisa.
#2479
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I've always heard early 90's when we've discussed cut off dates for C&V before. Though some people say pre-STI. Haven't heard anything as early as 1986.
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Changed the alloy wheelset to Campagnolo Hyperon tubulars. Such a light wheelset makes the bike accelerate like it's 3 pounds lighter, and I think it looks even better now, too!
Last edited by Plus; 11-26-12 at 03:44 AM.
#2482
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^so pretty. so very very pretty. Details on the stem? Seems a lot beefier compared to other quill stems.
#2483
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I'm actually going to convert the '88 Voyageur to upright bars. I thought about using the Veloce flat bar levers, but I don't want to spend the money. I think I'll just pick up some Alivio shifter/levers.
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#2484
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Thanks, man. That's right, Veloce 10 with Shimano 8. Hell, the Deore RD on the Voyageur is 6s SIS and still shifts as sure as any other combo I've tried. I don't hesitate to recommend the C10>S8 combo; it's damn near fool proof.
I'm actually going to convert the '88 Voyageur to upright bars. I thought about using the Veloce flat bar levers, but I don't want to spend the money. I think I'll just pick up some Alivio shifter/levers.
I'm actually going to convert the '88 Voyageur to upright bars. I thought about using the Veloce flat bar levers, but I don't want to spend the money. I think I'll just pick up some Alivio shifter/levers.
#2485
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Sounds like you've found ways to make lower-cost stuff perform like upper-cost stuff. I'm working in that vein on setting up some Microshift levers/FD./RD. It takes a little tweaking, but they're already as good as 1st gen 105/Ultegra 9sp, and I'm trying to get them just a notch smoother.....
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#2486
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#2487
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#2488
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There's your answer, didn't realize it was actually 1987. That actually works out well since I'm on the hunt for a '87 Triathlon since it has the correct threading for an external BB, and it doesn't have the horrible quill seatpost. Whoever invented quill seatposts should be shot...just kidding...
#2490
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It is just so beautiful, it really takes my breath away. It is perfectly done, and so Italian! It might just be the nicest Bottechia I've ever seen. I've always wanted one, even though they are not considered one of the top Italian brands by many, just because of the history behind them, the nice paint schemes and IMO, they ooz of more Italianess than any other Italian name.
Thanks for sharing this one!
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I quite like that Ritchey stem; harkens to the original Ritchey Force OEM stem that also had a similar angle.
This page 100 sure has some winners! Hoping to add my own contribution in a few weeks.
This page 100 sure has some winners! Hoping to add my own contribution in a few weeks.
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Is that just straight microshift stuff? I've been planning on doing a shimergo setup with a microshift RD (because I grabbed one a while back as it was so much cheaper), but I'd been thinking bout next time just going ahead and getting all the parts from microshift because you can find a set of their mid-to higher-range stuff for about the same as a pair of centaur 10 spd shifters.
I really wanted, for quite a while, a set of the white, but never could find a deal, and got these as a "filler" to get bikes on the road. With some of the 10-sp only wheels going so cheap around here, I may pick up a 10-sp set and move these on. There is a little bonus in that they're pretty light (plastic does that).
Don't mean to get OT, but in my world, a true frankenbike is a modern bike, anyway, so here's the bike with Micrsoshift.
I need to lower the bars, but I don't want to cut the steerer just yet, and it looks dorky spaced above the stem.
#2494
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I couldn't resist being on page 100. Found this well cared for Colnago X-Lite on a bicycling forum in France and negotiated for delivery to Sweden. Probably from around 2000, since it has original Shimano Ultegra 6500 components. Just need to find an original alloy crank.
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
Took it out for a 100km ride last weekend and the ride was so much smoother than my CF frame. I think we will be very happy together...
/Michael
#2495
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I want those wheels, man.
It's the straight stuff, FD/RD/shifters for something like $130, I think they were $141 on my doorstep.
I really wanted, for quite a while, a set of the white, but never could find a deal, and got these as a "filler" to get bikes on the road. With some of the 10-sp only wheels going so cheap around here, I may pick up a 10-sp set and move these on. There is a little bonus in that they're pretty light (plastic does that).
Don't mean to get OT, but in my world, a true frankenbike is a modern bike, anyway, so here's the bike with Micrsoshift.
I need to lower the bars, but I don't want to cut the steerer just yet, and it looks dorky spaced above the stem.
I really wanted, for quite a while, a set of the white, but never could find a deal, and got these as a "filler" to get bikes on the road. With some of the 10-sp only wheels going so cheap around here, I may pick up a 10-sp set and move these on. There is a little bonus in that they're pretty light (plastic does that).
Don't mean to get OT, but in my world, a true frankenbike is a modern bike, anyway, so here's the bike with Micrsoshift.
I need to lower the bars, but I don't want to cut the steerer just yet, and it looks dorky spaced above the stem.
#2497
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Thanks, I am still not sure what crankarm length I am going for. Have been using 172.5 forever, but this bike came with 175, which I have been wanting to test since I am not the spinner I was 20 years ago. Looking for any help I can get up the hills
#2498
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I got my 1st test ride on this one today. An ebay deal that I scored locally. I believe it's a '79 Mondia Prestige frame w/ 531 tubing. Pretty light at 20 lbs, so it might even be 531SL tubing...not sure? I was sold on it since it had a good fresh paint job. The seller wasn't exactly sure what make the frame was. But I did . I have a '82 Mondia Super w/ 531SL tubing, so the ebay pics clued me in. This one's a little smaller (56cm) than my existing one (60cm). I've been on the lookout for a smaller framed Mondia, so when it came up, I jumped on it.
Purchased as a 'frame only' & I built it up w/o hesitation, robbing most parts off one bike and the rest I had stashed away. Wheeled & dealed for the SR Crankset & put them all to good use. Decals compliments of Cyclomondo. Still waiting on a long silver seatpost that's 26.6mm from the UK....
Purchased as a 'frame only' & I built it up w/o hesitation, robbing most parts off one bike and the rest I had stashed away. Wheeled & dealed for the SR Crankset & put them all to good use. Decals compliments of Cyclomondo. Still waiting on a long silver seatpost that's 26.6mm from the UK....
Last edited by 1 Lugnut; 10-31-12 at 10:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by Giacomo 1
It is just so beautiful, it really takes my breath away. It is perfectly done, and so Italian! It might just be the nicest Bottechia I've ever seen.
This catalog spread and one other bike I found online were a big inspiration for my build:
#2500
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They're very easy to shift from from the drops. Like Campy, the brake lever only is for braking. The big shift lever is a lot like Campy's. I shift it, from the drops, with my middle two fingers, and they find it and move it in, easily. There's a decent little "click" detent for the shift. Swing it in like a madman, you get 2-3 cogs, but so far, the chain has hit them dead-on and no chatter, no manipulation required to "seat" it back onto a cog (are you listening, Campy?) Moving down the cogs is easier on these, than either Shimano or Campy. Yep, I said that. It's a rectangular "button" on the upper outside of the big lever. Even with numb fingers, moving down the cogs is accurate, easy, and a no-brainer. It's one-at-time in that direction, but you don't exactly get behind the curve on mashing, anyway.
Shifting from the hoods is identical to Campy moving up, much easier moving down. The outside button is just so much easier to manipulate, and almost seems to have a spring assist; it's lighter and more deft.
About the same width as Shimano's 1st generation 9-sp, but a little more round, and not as much rubber there. Not being a hood rider, I can't really relate. When I mounted them, I went ahead and wrapped "fat" above the shifter, so when I do ride the hoods (only for numbness relief), I can get circulation going quicker.
After three rides, I sort of like them. I'm learning to trust the throw to move the chain, and no longer over-feeling or over-listening. I'm dead quiet in 8 gears, a little FD rub on the outer/outer. Moving down the cogs is bump and run. I lubed the chain, lubed the FD/RD a bit, and took it for 15 hard miles today. No problems. It's a braze-on FD, and the limit screws don't work exactly like Shimano, or Campy, so I've probably adjusted it 3 times already. It just sits inside too far. If you bring it out using the inner screw, it shuts down all range in the FD completely. I think it's the mounting distances, so I'll put a spacer behind the FD mounting tab. If that doesn't work, I'll just use a Campy braze-on FD. They always seem to work.
Shifting from the hoods is identical to Campy moving up, much easier moving down. The outside button is just so much easier to manipulate, and almost seems to have a spring assist; it's lighter and more deft.
About the same width as Shimano's 1st generation 9-sp, but a little more round, and not as much rubber there. Not being a hood rider, I can't really relate. When I mounted them, I went ahead and wrapped "fat" above the shifter, so when I do ride the hoods (only for numbness relief), I can get circulation going quicker.
After three rides, I sort of like them. I'm learning to trust the throw to move the chain, and no longer over-feeling or over-listening. I'm dead quiet in 8 gears, a little FD rub on the outer/outer. Moving down the cogs is bump and run. I lubed the chain, lubed the FD/RD a bit, and took it for 15 hard miles today. No problems. It's a braze-on FD, and the limit screws don't work exactly like Shimano, or Campy, so I've probably adjusted it 3 times already. It just sits inside too far. If you bring it out using the inner screw, it shuts down all range in the FD completely. I think it's the mounting distances, so I'll put a spacer behind the FD mounting tab. If that doesn't work, I'll just use a Campy braze-on FD. They always seem to work.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 09-21-12 at 07:04 PM.