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  1. #3976
    Senior Member
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    ;'NOS 72 Cinelli SC (almost complete) ; 2011 Baum Corretto Ti; 2007 BMC SLC01; 1986 Pinarello Team Bike (rider); 1983 De Rosa Professional (retro rider); 1959 Bianchi Tour De France (in restoration)
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    Thanks guys
    Yes pleased to report that the blue De Rosa is nicely polished back to original shine - it was a shame the post ride picture was out of focus - probably due to frozen, shaking hands and rain.
    The groupset is Campy Athena 11spd - most of the graphics are placed on top of the anodising/clear coat so can be removed without too much trouble using very fine abrasive material. The first Athena alloy11spd cranks came out with graphics on top of clear coat so graphics can be removed easily and maintain the protective finish on the cranks - these are the ultra-torque version. The subsequent version (power torque) has the graphics under the clearcoat - same with the levers - so are much harder to deal with. My levers were completely polished back to bare alloy which are not too hard to maintain. Not sure I would want to do that with the cranks as they would be a pain to maintain in good condition without a protective coating.

  2. #3977
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    R J Quinn road bike with Reynolds 531cs tubing, Lombardo Hiker 6061 aluminium tubing, Dawes road bike 531c, Dawes road bike 531st, Peugeot road bike reynolds 753
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    what's the tubing on that one? looks like a flyer

  3. #3978
    Hump triggahiccups's Avatar
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    Gios Compact System, De Rosa SLX
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    Looks like we had the same idea, 80's De Rosa SLX with 11 speed campy athena. I can attest to the fact that the bike just flies. I hadn't actually considered removing the graphics, they are pretty lame, unfortunately I have power torque so it sounds like it wouldn't be worth it.

  4. #3979
    keep it simple. tamaso206's Avatar
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    The graphics on silver alloy Veloce derailleurs and brakes can be removed with nail polish quite easily, no need for sanding. Only the levers (and possibly crank) were under clear coat. I haven't tried Athena, but suspect it is the same situation.

  5. #3980
    Senior Member Kactus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamaso206 View Post
    The graphics on silver alloy Veloce derailleurs and brakes can be removed with nail polish quite easily, no need for sanding. Only the levers (and possibly crank) were under clear coat. I haven't tried Athena, but suspect it is the same situation.
    Do you mean nail polish remover​?
    1974 Motobecane Champion Team
    1978 Raleigh Professional
    1983 Sekai 4000
    1985 CIÖCC Designer 84

  6. #3981
    EBH
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    Senior Member EBH's Avatar
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    ha ha

  7. #3982
    keep it simple. tamaso206's Avatar
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    Haha, yes, nail polish remover. Though, if you prefer to hide the campy logos by going full candy apple red, I ain't mad at ya!

  8. #3983
    Senior Member
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    2008 SCOTT CR1 PRO, 1988 SCHWINN super sport, 1989 CALFEE/CARBONFRAMES SAPPHIRE
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    1989 SCHWINN LE TOUR BEFORE AND AFTER

    BEFORE


    AFTER
    2010 105/ULTEGRA, I ONLY WISH SOMEONE HERE WOULD HAVE MENTIONED ABOUT LONG REACH CALIPERS AND SAVE ME A LOT OF TIME. I JUST ORDERED SOME NEW SHIMANO BR-R450 CALIPERS FOR THE EXTRA REACH. SADLY I HAVE VINTAGE DURA ACE CALIPERS, NEWER ULTEGRA CALIPER AND NEW TIAGRA CALIPER BUT ALL ARE SHORT REACH SO THEY DID NOT WORK . I HAD TO INSTALL THE ORIGINAL DIA COMP CALIPERS.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Desertrats97; 08-04-14 at 03:26 PM. Reason: GOT PICS TO WORK

  9. #3984
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    Nice Schwinn. A hint on that bottle cage. You may want to remove those blue grips, and then super-glue them back on. Been there, lost those, just one, but on a set of two cages. Bummed me out for at least 5 minutes.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    I'm not a doctor, but I watch them on TV.

    1982 Lotus Classique
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    1995 Hot Tubes TT
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  10. #3985
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    photo-2.jpg

    Heres my effort, a bit of a Frankenbike 90/91 Miyata 914. I took parts off a bike I bought on CL a few years back, after a few hundred miles though I really did not like the aluminum frame. Low end Shimano 2300 STI's, a 75mm Shimano stem from a 72' World Traveler, headset from an old Schwinn.

  11. #3986
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    My humble addition to this thread. 1983 Trek 600, 3X9 Shimano drivetrain, Dura-Ace indexing bar ends. Took it out for the first ride today, shifts like a dream.



  12. #3987
    Senior Member Germany_chris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otg View Post
    My humble addition to this thread. 1983 Trek 600, 3X9 Shimano drivetrain, Dura-Ace indexing bar ends. Took it out for the first ride today, shifts like a dream.


    I don't see any STI's or Ergo's??
    I'm an angry angst ridden anarcho-punk socialist you should just generally disregard my posts--Germany_chris

  13. #3988
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    Think I'll take the advice in your sig line. Sorry for posting.

  14. #3989
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otg View Post
    Think I'll take the advice in your sig line. Sorry for posting.
    It's OK, post away. There really is no other thread for upgraded C&V without STI's or Ergos. Nice frameset and group. That's my favorite Trek color scheme.

    Quote Originally Posted by faeasjepardo View Post
    photo-2.jpg

    Heres my effort, a bit of a Frankenbike 90/91 Miyata 914. I took parts off a bike I bought on CL a few years back, after a few hundred miles though I really did not like the aluminum frame. Low end Shimano 2300 STI's, a 75mm Shimano stem from a 72' World Traveler, headset from an old Schwinn.
    How does it ride? I almost bought a 718a, and if it had fit, likely would have...

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    I'm not a doctor, but I watch them on TV.

    1982 Lotus Classique
    1987 D'Arienzo (Basso) SLX
    1995 Hot Tubes TT
    2006 Cinelli XLR8R-2
    2008 BMC Roadracer SL01
    2011 Eddy Merckx EMX3
    2014 Wraith Hustle

  15. #3990
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    Quote Originally Posted by otg View Post
    Think I'll take the advice in your sig line. Sorry for posting.
    No worries.

    It's an attractive bicycle. Love the color and I bet it rides great!

  16. #3991
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    Hey, thanks RobbieTunes and gomango. It really rides great. I had been riding it once in a while with the original Suntour BL group, but my knees and the hills around here were causing me to leave it sitting more than it should. The new drivetrain works flawlessly and I took it on a hilly 40 miler this morning.

  17. #3992
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    It rides great, the frame is quite stiff but it soaks up the bumps pretty well.

  18. #3993
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I've been thinking, thinking, thinking of converting my old McLean to STI or Ergo. I have a group of each. They are both sitting in bins, not on bikes.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  19. #3994
    Senior Member
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    Noglinder - thats a nice problem to have , i say Ergo

  20. #3995
    Senior Member
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    ;'NOS 72 Cinelli SC (almost complete) ; 2011 Baum Corretto Ti; 2007 BMC SLC01; 1986 Pinarello Team Bike (rider); 1983 De Rosa Professional (retro rider); 1959 Bianchi Tour De France (in restoration)
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    Quote Originally Posted by twolegs View Post
    what's the tubing on that one? looks like a flyer
    Mine's actually SL not SLX which seems to be a far less common version judging by the number of SLX's that appear.

  21. #3996
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertrats97 View Post
    Noglinder - thats a nice problem to have , i say Ergo
    Quite right. It's a good example of a first world problem.

    The thing is I have a new titanium frame which I haven't built up yet. No matter how I build it, it will be lighter than the McLean. So in that sense, it makes sense to put the Ergo group on that and the Tiagra group on the McLean.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  22. #3997
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    If if i go sti on my 84 miyata, i know i have to grab new from and back derailleur but do i need a new crank as well?

  23. #3998
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otg View Post
    Hey, thanks RobbieTunes and gomango. It really rides great. The new drivetrain works flawlessly and I took it on a hilly 40 miler this morning.
    Reel 'im in, Grady, the hook is set! Another convert. World domination, one bike at a time.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    I'm not a doctor, but I watch them on TV.

    1982 Lotus Classique
    1987 D'Arienzo (Basso) SLX
    1995 Hot Tubes TT
    2006 Cinelli XLR8R-2
    2008 BMC Roadracer SL01
    2011 Eddy Merckx EMX3
    2014 Wraith Hustle

  24. #3999
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
    Reel 'im in, Grady, the hook is set! Another convert. World domination, one bike at a time.
    Yes sir! A 40 miler is a nice distance.

    Btw Wait till you see what I rode today.

    My Bilenky tourer with Campy 8 speed Racing Triple drivetrain.

    Ergos of course. The only thing I couldn't fit on the bike was my wife's dishwasher........

  25. #4000
    keep it simple. tamaso206's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agchopz View Post
    If if i go sti on my 84 miyata, i know i have to grab new from and back derailleur but do i need a new crank as well?
    No new crank needed. Though if you convert to 9 speed or more (talking number of gears on your rear cassette), you should get new chainrings; 9, 10, and 11spd chains get progressively narrower (5/6/7/8 speed chains are the same width).

    Generally speaking, in an indexed system the chain and everything that touches it (i.e. the drivetrain) should match the shifter for it to work optimally, but there are ways to fudge this if you want to save $$. The geometry of front derailleurs is largely unchanged over the years, so you can likely get away with keeping your old one if you are confident in adjusting the limit screws.
    i prefer email to PMs-- tamaso [at] gmail [dot] com

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