gomango

This one and CDM's tandem are easily two that could change my mind about these options.

Outstanding.

RobbieTunes

gomango,
You and your wife could kick serious tail on one of those.

brockd15 

That's the truth. Wow, that's an aggressive stoker position, and a teeny tiny stoker stem.

jbrow1

I have a 1983 schwinn traveller and was thinking of putting some brifters and more cogs in the back. What would be a good choice in components, not top of the line, but something that would work well and not cost a fortune either. Would 8 or 9 speed be a better choice? I've already went with a 7 speed freewheel, I will have to get a new wheel if I want more speeds as well. Are there any brifters that would work with my 7 speed freewheel? I really don't care if the FD is indexed or stays friction. Thanks for any ideas

Kevin stafford

You can find 7 speed brifters, or 8 speed will work fine on 7 (just has 1 extra click on the small cog end). I just did this on my 82 Super LeTour, I used a modern 105 on the rear (fits on claw just fine), original FD indexes perfectly. I'm using 600 8 speed brifters shifting 7 in the rear.

tztag

My two Ergo Peugeots are basically done. Wife's PH501 previously posted but with a better looking seat, and one of my PSV10s. This one is a $110 craigslist frame that was half-converted to a fixie. Luckily it was English threaded, so a campy BB went in and I built it up with old Athena and Chorus. It's a little too small for me, so hopefully I'll find a nice 64cm version someday. Amazing how flexy the Super Vitus frame is though- are the 531 frames stiffer? These both have stock 126mm rear spacing, 8-speed Campy shifters, and 7 speed Shimano cassettes. This is my favorite combo if you are trying to keep a somewhat period-correct look and don't want to alter the frame at all- the Campy 8 speed and Shimano 7 are both exactly 5mm between gears so it shifts perfectly and probably better than stock Campy due to the HG ramps on the cassettes.

jbrow1

Thanks for the information guys
Nice bikes too !

RobbieTunes

+1.
Any 7-sp STI (RSX or Sora) and any 8-sp STI (except Dura Ace) will work fine.

EDIT: Most 7-sp RSX and 8-sp RX100, 105, 600, and DA STI's are repairable.

I'm posting this here, because most people interested in these are upgrading, and they come to this thread.

Sora's
I've never had a problem with Sora's, but I recently got in a set that had a R shifter that wouldn't shift.
Others I know have had the problem and simply thrown them away. I had another sitting here, same problem.

I was frustrated, because I paid a whopping $30 for the set (should have been my first clue).
I ordered another set, for $40, and then turned my OCD AR attention to the non-shifting Sora.

I found that once you remove the nose piece, you are not doomed, but it can certainly appear so.
The small top spring that moderates advancement between cogs (as the big lever moves) is seated in the nose piece.
Once you slide the nose piece off, it comes out, and with the nose piece off, it's hard to connect the two, mentally.
I surmised this by looking at the inside of the nose piece and seeing marks where the spring end has been.
Though this seemed like the right thing to think, getting it back in seemed impossible.

The main issue when repairing STI's seems to be holding parts in place while you replace other parts.

You have to hold the spring end up, under tension, and then slide the nose piece back on.
Of course, sliding the nose piece back on removes your ability to hold the spring end up, under tension.

I thought about using fishing line to pull the end up, and hold it, then slide the nose piece on and pull the line out.
Nope. Seems simple, but it's not.

drrobwave suggested a toothpick wedged under the spring end from the rear, holding it up.
Then you would slide the nose piece on from the front, break off and pull out the toothpick.
Nope. I ddn't have a toothpick. He also suggested a tiny allen wrench for the same thing.
Bingo. My $30 L Sora is now back to a $30 set of L & R Soras.

Of course, I found a part that goes inside there somewhere, after I was done.

eerriicc

This really is incredibly awesome.

dwellman

Yeah. I also wanted to make sure that something like this will fit my mid to late 80's Shimano 600 Uniglide (126mm). If there's one thing I DON'T need is more useless bike parts.

I mean I read all about it that it's possible, but I've had a hard time finding anyone that actually did it (8 of 9 on 7) via hub body transplant.

I have an aluminum frame.

tugrul

The one time** I had to do it, I slipped the spring into the notch on the cover then twisted it into place like an oreo in reverse. I'm curious what the actual tool is for this.

** I got the anchor of a shift cable stuck in one (didn't fully tension it before trying), and I was trying to see if a partial disassembly would make it easier to get to.

RobbieTunes

I don't know if that's the right hub, but if you're planning on going 7-sp, probably. I actually took a 7-sp hub off an '88 model and put an 8/9/10 hub on. (Well, LBS did for $35 labor plus the hub, something like $30 more).

Not sure what your frame was before, but 120 going to 126 on some aluminum frames can be tough. Clearance is also sometimes an issue on the R chain stay near the dropout. I went from 126 to 130, as I've done a lot, with no problem on both a Schwinn 564 and a Centurion Facet. Both were 126 aluminum frames.

dwellman

Frame is 126. Planning on going 8 (9 - 1). Just want to make sure that any HG FH body will fit the old hub.

RobbieTunes

It should. Mine was UG and I went to HG. Had to buy the hub and a longer axle. LBS did the rest. Way back when it was my only bike.

gomango

Yep, but she'd really have to give it all she's got.

I'm the boat anchor at this house.

RoboIsGod

Anyone know what the front saddle is on this?

buldogge

Looks like a Selle Italia SLR...

RobbieTunes

Looks to be an SLR 135

acpeeps

my restomod, '90's Raleigh, with just about full Ultegra and Origin8 track attack wheels

K. Olsen

That's hot^

dwellman

Gee, and I thought MY bike had a lot of purple. . . or at least it used to. XTR, huh? I was thinking going XT / XTR on my 70's Raliegh. . . It's a tough, heavy frame. . .

acpeeps

the mnt bike is XTR....this is full 10spd Ultegra (except the Sram crank)

dwellman

Oh, signature. . . duh. Still. . .

Hey I was doing some, um, reading and did not 600 kinda morph into Ultegra / Deore or is that just screwy Shimano nomenclature?

DongDong

Hey guys, i have a couple of questions regarding converting to STI.

I found a lotus Unique at a garage sale and bought it for $50. I do not know about this bike, It has shimano 600 (6 speed) components. The spacing in the rear triangle is 126mm.

I'm planning on putting in a more modern drivetrain on it(probably a 9 speed?)

my questions are:

i believe that 9 speed require 130mm, (i'll probably jam the rear hub in) correct?
will the newer shimano 105 components fit? (post 2000)
the current shimano 105 has 10 speeds, does that still fit the the 130mm hub?
I'm not sure whats the threading on the bottom bracket, but will a newer bb fit onto the frame?

as far as the components go, am i missing anything?
FD, RD, crankset, bb, shifters, new hub, cassette?

sorry for the noobie questions.

brockd15 

You can coldset the frame from 126 to 130 but most people don't bother. It's not that hard to fit a 130 hub into a 126 frame. 10 speed cassettes fit on the same size hub as a 9 speed cassette, so you're good there. You shouldn't have any problems fitting the newer components, just be sure you get the right threading for the BB. In addition to the components you listed, you may need some downtube cable stops, too, and a new chain. The RD should bolt right up, the FD may need a shim if it's not a braze-on or if you don't get one with a 28.6 clamp.