Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
07-01-12, 11:39 AM
#2276
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After 2 years of upgrades, races, crashes, and being generally beat to hell, I think my Circuit has changed enough to re-post. 
Here it was, sparkling and clean right after the build:
And here it is after today's ride (us city folk have to do with stoops because we don't have white garage doors):
Updates:
Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Blackset 10 wheelset
Black Vittoria Pro tires - Soon to be replaced with Continentals
White Rolls saddle - The original red one's color bled all over my shorts even after thousands of miles and made it impossible to ride in regular pants
53/39 SRAM Rival chainrings/bolts - I had originally used Specialites TA Alize 52 rings, but the front shifting was still poor. These work great, but I have to get used to the 39 replacing the original 42. Also they're not very bling, oh well, form over function I suppose.
Cinelli 1A stem 100mm - Original spec 90mm was way too short
SRAM 1051 chain - Original 1071 chain finally snapped a link; found out that the 1051 is specced out to be more robust even though it's - oh no - 20g heavier because it doesn't have hollow pins...again, oh no.
After getting to know this bike very well, I'm ready for a stiffer frame. Next up, a 1986 Peloton's. Still waiting to get the group set together. I'll most likely build it up very close to how the Circuit is built.
Here it was, sparkling and clean right after the build:
And here it is after today's ride (us city folk have to do with stoops because we don't have white garage doors):
Updates:
Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Blackset 10 wheelset
Black Vittoria Pro tires - Soon to be replaced with Continentals
White Rolls saddle - The original red one's color bled all over my shorts even after thousands of miles and made it impossible to ride in regular pants
53/39 SRAM Rival chainrings/bolts - I had originally used Specialites TA Alize 52 rings, but the front shifting was still poor. These work great, but I have to get used to the 39 replacing the original 42. Also they're not very bling, oh well, form over function I suppose.
Cinelli 1A stem 100mm - Original spec 90mm was way too short
SRAM 1051 chain - Original 1071 chain finally snapped a link; found out that the 1051 is specced out to be more robust even though it's - oh no - 20g heavier because it doesn't have hollow pins...again, oh no.
After getting to know this bike very well, I'm ready for a stiffer frame. Next up, a 1986 Peloton's. Still waiting to get the group set together. I'll most likely build it up very close to how the Circuit is built.
What crank is that?
This is a very tasteful build and the colors are much better than your previous build. SRAM stuff has a look to it that the other groups don't really have. It makes a bike look more racey more than anything else.
07-01-12, 11:54 AM
#2278
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Interesting to see that you chose SRAM. Not many cvers choose SRAM. I have a force group on my Ridley because I was able to essentially trade in a veloce group through some bike flips. The hoods feel amazing to me, but the double tap and the ability to only trim one way for the front is a bit lacking. Although,all the systems shift fine and this doesn't really hinder my riding.
Crank is the original Suntour Sprint. I think it looks better than the modern stuff even if it's a bit heavy, but weight isn't a huge issue on a C&V build. The Suntour sealed BB it came with is super smooth which is another reason I like the crank.
Thanks! I went a little overboard on the original build with the matchy-matchy red everywhere. It now looks a lot closer to it's original 1986 spec. Along with the worn out paint, it's much more of an "all business" aesthetic now.
07-04-12, 07:45 PM
#2280
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My 1990 Miyata 914. I bought it off of Craigslist for $75. However, only the frame, headset, and derailers are parts that were on it when I bought it. I recently picked up the Shimano 600 stem, and surprisingly the compact bontrager bars were easier to get it that stem vs a regular stem.
07-06-12, 02:15 PM
#2281
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Niiiice, how are the bars working out for you? I like that these modern bars combined with the brifter hoods essentially make for a longer stem. This particular one looks pretty good even though it's not a traditional bend.
My 1990 Miyata 914. I bought it off of Craigslist for $75. However, only the frame, headset, and derailers are parts that were on it when I bought it. I recently picked up the Shimano 600 stem, and surprisingly the compact bontrager bars were easier to get it that stem vs a regular stem.
07-06-12, 08:59 PM
#2283
Senior Member
I borrowed my twin brother's Bianchi to try out modern drivetrain components, as I had never ridden a bike with Ergos/brifters. Hopefully he doesn't mind me posting a pic of it 
I believe it is an early '90s or late '80s Trofeo frame, which he had a local frame painter repaint, equipped with Campy Record 9 speed and Velocity rims. Salsa stem with Cinelli bars.
I believe it is an early '90s or late '80s Trofeo frame, which he had a local frame painter repaint, equipped with Campy Record 9 speed and Velocity rims. Salsa stem with Cinelli bars.
07-07-12, 05:30 AM
#2285
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Fabulous bike, Pars. The only thing I'd do is give your brother a Cinelli Grammo or 101 stem to replace that salsa on your birthday
07-07-12, 05:10 PM
#2286
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My 1990 Miyata 914. I bought it off of Craigslist for $75. However, only the frame, headset, and derailers are parts that were on it when I bought it. I recently picked up the Shimano 600 stem, and surprisingly the compact bontrager bars were easier to get it that stem vs a regular stem.
07-07-12, 05:30 PM
#2289
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It was only temporary, but here's my ~75 Centurion with an updated wheelset and the bars and brake levers off of a 2008 San Jose:
07-07-12, 06:58 PM
#2291
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07-07-12, 09:50 PM
#2292
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you can actually get tighter cable routing doing it the criss cross way. Less sharp turns this way. I prefer to do it this way when the bike allows. Sometimes oversized tube sets prevent this as they rub the frame.
07-07-12, 11:05 PM
#2293
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Originally Posted by jeebusaurousrex
Niiiice, how are the bars working out for you? I like that these modern bars combined with the brifter hoods essentially make for a longer stem. This particular one looks pretty good even though it's not a traditional bend.
07-12-12, 11:03 AM
#2295
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I figured all IRONMANS should stick and be together!!
So, I will post my two here along with yours.. Here are my two Robbie Tunes built Centurion Ironmans..One 88 Expert, One 89 Master. Also, and this is real funny, when Robbie built the Master for me and I saw it, I was a little disappointed, because it had brifters... I only had one bike with brifters, my Liltespeed, everything else was downtube. Anyway, after the Master, I want every dam bike I got except the 79 Raleigh Comp sporting brifters!! 
07-12-12, 11:43 AM
#2296
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Hello,
This is my first post. I've been following the C&V forum for the past 4 months to get help on my vintage --> STI referesh. Thanks to all of the posts here on bf and more specifically the C&V forum (and the motivation from this thread), the end result of a bunch of work and research has led me to the following:
1985 Nishiki Sport Frame
Dura Ace 7400 8spd Gruppo (minus brakeset, cassette)
Shimano R600 Long-reach Brakeset
Ksyrium Elite 700c wheels with Continental Ultra Gatorskins 700x23
Nashbar Integrated 1" Threaded Carbon Fork
Profile Design Threaded to Threadless Adapter with Nashbar Stem and Road Bars
Thomson Elite Seatpost
The weight comes out to about 22.35 pounds. Gotta do some more work on it (heavy pedals!!), I'm expecting around 21 pounds when I'm done.
This is my first post. I've been following the C&V forum for the past 4 months to get help on my vintage --> STI referesh. Thanks to all of the posts here on bf and more specifically the C&V forum (and the motivation from this thread), the end result of a bunch of work and research has led me to the following:
1985 Nishiki Sport Frame
Dura Ace 7400 8spd Gruppo (minus brakeset, cassette)
Shimano R600 Long-reach Brakeset
Ksyrium Elite 700c wheels with Continental Ultra Gatorskins 700x23
Nashbar Integrated 1" Threaded Carbon Fork
Profile Design Threaded to Threadless Adapter with Nashbar Stem and Road Bars
Thomson Elite Seatpost
The weight comes out to about 22.35 pounds. Gotta do some more work on it (heavy pedals!!), I'm expecting around 21 pounds when I'm done.
Love it! I have my old '88 Centurion Ironman Expert and would like to do a similar retrofit.
07-13-12, 11:28 AM
#2297
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I have Some Questions for all of you that have built up a bike using an older frame with new parts.
I have a 68 CM Panosonic Sport 1000 frame that was mine from Jr.High/High School.
I am Considering tearing the old parts off of the Panosonic and building a new bike using New/Used parts from Ebay etc.
Can anyone give me some direction as to what size/type/brand of Cranks, Wheels, Brakes, Group set etc would work best for this project as i have no idea what size the parts are on this Panosonic and it what would fit. I realize i would need to Coldset the Rear of the Frame as well.
I guess total i would be looking at replacing:
Wheels/tires
Drive Train
Bars
Brakes
Seat
Seat Post
Brakes/Shifters etc.
BB
thank you for your help.
I have a 68 CM Panosonic Sport 1000 frame that was mine from Jr.High/High School.
I am Considering tearing the old parts off of the Panosonic and building a new bike using New/Used parts from Ebay etc.
Can anyone give me some direction as to what size/type/brand of Cranks, Wheels, Brakes, Group set etc would work best for this project as i have no idea what size the parts are on this Panosonic and it what would fit. I realize i would need to Coldset the Rear of the Frame as well.
I guess total i would be looking at replacing:
Wheels/tires
Drive Train
Bars
Brakes
Seat
Seat Post
Brakes/Shifters etc.
BB
thank you for your help.
07-13-12, 05:01 PM
#2298
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Wheels/tires
Are your wheels 27" or 700c?
How many speeds do you plan to run?
Drive Train
Are your shifters stem-mounted or on the down tube?
Bars
No need to upgrade unless you don't like them.
Brakes
If you're converting from 27" to 700c, you may need some long-reach,
and I recommend the Tektros. If you're not converting, maybe upgrade to dual pivots.
Seat
Pretty personal item. I like to avoid weight. Others like to avoid pain.
Seat Post
Depending upon the size and type, modern posts can run from $20 to $100
Brakes/Shifters etc.
If you upgrade to combined brake levers/shifters (aka "brifters," or STI's, or Ergos),
you have to know what wheel you're putting on the rear.
BB
It depends on the crankset.
All the shifter/FD/RD/rear wheel/crankset/BB tend to tie in together.
More info needed, but you're at the right place.
Welcome to the forum.
Are your wheels 27" or 700c?
How many speeds do you plan to run?
Drive Train
Are your shifters stem-mounted or on the down tube?
Bars
No need to upgrade unless you don't like them.
Brakes
If you're converting from 27" to 700c, you may need some long-reach,
and I recommend the Tektros. If you're not converting, maybe upgrade to dual pivots.
Seat
Pretty personal item. I like to avoid weight. Others like to avoid pain.
Seat Post
Depending upon the size and type, modern posts can run from $20 to $100
Brakes/Shifters etc.
If you upgrade to combined brake levers/shifters (aka "brifters," or STI's, or Ergos),
you have to know what wheel you're putting on the rear.
BB
It depends on the crankset.
All the shifter/FD/RD/rear wheel/crankset/BB tend to tie in together.
More info needed, but you're at the right place.
Welcome to the forum.
