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  1. #1
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    Univega - Nashbar Headset and Bottom Bracket

    I'm rebuilding a 80's univega. Tonight I stripped the bike in preparation for powdercoating next week. I bought Nashbar parts (headset, crank and BB) during their Turkey day sale. After receiving them and test fitting, I noticed the BB is rather tight to screw it. I have the ISIS tool but am really afraid of stripping the plastic threads on the retainers. Anybody have any tips on how to get them threaded correctly? Next I pounded out the old headset. The bearing ring that slides down over the steerer tube seems to be just a touch smaller in - inside - diameter then the old one. This is going to make it really difficult to get it onto the shoulder just above the fork crown. Is this normal, would it help if I don't powder coat this area? It's painted now. I hesitate to force fit it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Lanky Lass East Hill's Avatar
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    Anyone have suggestions?

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  3. #3
    Unique Vintage Steel cuda2k's Avatar
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    1) Take the frame to a LBS and have them clean out the threads in the BB shell. They've got the tapping tools to straighten out any damanged threads and clean out any gunk along the way.

    2) There are different internal diameters of headsets out there. You may have the wrong size for your fork. Sheldonbrown.com will have more information for you.
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  4. #4
    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    A little grease on both sides of the BB cups won't hurt, either.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cuda2k View Post
    1) Take the frame to a LBS and have them clean out the threads in the BB shell. They've got the tapping tools to straighten out any damanged threads and clean out any gunk along the way.

    2) There are different internal diameters of headsets out there. You may have the wrong size for your fork. Sheldonbrown.com will have more information for you.
    Thanks cuda, the headset about .04mm to small. I'm going to check and see if the machinist at work can ream it out a bit. Your right about the BB, after looking at the threads closely I realized they are full of rusty looking goop. Maybe the machinist at work can chase the threads out for me too.

    I have no problem with going to a LBS, it's my goal is to rebuild this bike on my own with help from the web. I'd like to say its a low budget deal, but, its not. So far, $75 for the Bike and about $350 in parts and tools. My on the street budget is $500. I still have to buy cables, handlebar tape, brake hoods and other sundry items.

  6. #6
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astropuppy View Post
    ......the headset about .04mm to small......
    If I'm understanding this correctly, it sounds like the crown race you have from Nashbar is a 26.4mm ID, and the crown race seat on the Univega's fork takes a 27.0mm ID crown race. The 26.4 is usually associated with ISO headsets, and the 27.0 is usually associated with JIS headsets. But it's not uncommon to find an ISO headset that has a 27.0mm crown race. Some bike shops can mill the crown race seat on the fork down to the 26.4mm size, or you should be able to find a 27.0mm crown race that will work. I think www.loosescrews.com carries a good selection of crown races-

    edit: it doesn't look like loosescrews has much selection after all, but there are a couple of Tange crown races here that are available in either size that might work for you:http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/1...ts.aspx?s=1350
    Last edited by well biked; 12-03-07 at 06:16 PM.

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    well biked,
    Thank you very very much. What you described is exactly what is going on. I'll check with the machinist and see if they can't turn down the crown race seat to 26.4 Otherwise, www.loosescrews.com has one for 5 bucks. I was attracted to the nashbar headset b/c its sealed and I was hoping to get a lot less dirty.

  8. #8
    Senior Member yellowjeep's Avatar
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    Yeah turning down crown race seats isnt really that fun, and will probably run you more than 5 bucks if the LBS even has the right tools. They should but still.
    When in doubt, style it out.

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    I am fortunate where I work I have access to a full machine shop and powder coating booth. With the required personal to run the equipment. I'll have to talk to the machinist about turning down the crown race seat.

    Should I try to spread my frame from 120 to 126 per Sheldon Browns instructions?
    http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html The way I figure its only a 1/4" give or take.

  10. #10
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    In regard to machining the crown race seat to accept a 26.4 ID crown race, I was just looking at the Park tool site and their tool for this (some bike shops will have it). If you do it, you should mill the crown race seat down to 26.5mm so that it's slightly larger than the 26.4 ID crown race; the crown race can then be pressed on with the correct interference fit.

    Here's a link to the tool:
    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...9&item=CRC%2D1
    Last edited by well biked; 12-03-07 at 07:56 PM.

  11. #11
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    I've got some spare JIS crown races. PM me your mailing address, and I'll send you one.
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbossman View Post
    I've got some spare JIS crown races. PM me your mailing address, and I'll send you one.
    All of you are incredibly nice people. bigbossman thanks for the offer. Work says they should be able to turn it down on the big lathe with a file. I should be able to get some big lathe time in the next couple days.

    I have read about setting the upper and lower crown race using a headset tool and using a few washers and a bolt. My question is why doesn't anybody use the steertube itself. Just put the steer tube though all the appropriate parts in the correct order and set the headset by tightening the lock nut. If this is a dumb question please understand I am very new to this headset jazz.

  13. #13
    My bikes became Vintage OLDYELLR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astropuppy View Post
    Work says they should be able to turn it down on the big lathe with a file. I should be able to get some big lathe time in the next couple days.
    Good luck with that. A crown race is hardened and a file won't touch it. Maybe a good carbide boring bar. The diameter will have to be precise. If it's loose it's no good either.
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  14. #14
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astropuppy View Post
    .....My question is why doesn't anybody use the steertube itself. Just put the steer tube though all the appropriate parts in the correct order and set the headset by tightening the lock nut.
    The crown race is (supposed to be) a VERY snug interference fit. Doing as you describe would probably damage something because of the torque involved - especially if something were cocked out of alignment. Better to use a length of pipe to seat it than the headset pieces.

    Ditto for the cups - you need to start them uniformly and carefully press them into place. People (including me) have made "shade-tree" headset presses out of big washers, nuts, and a threaded rod, but the correct tool is only $75 or so. Be aware that if you start them off out of true, you can damage the head tube. That would be a disaster.
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDYELLR View Post
    Good luck with that. A crown race is hardened and a file won't touch it. Maybe a good carbide boring bar. The diameter will have to be precise. If it's loose it's no good either.
    I should of said "Fork Crown Race Seat" sorry for the confusion. To our machine shop it really doesn't matter what it is; They can cut it, grind it, mill it, bore it etc. they have every machine imaginable.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astropuppy View Post
    I should of said "Fork Crown Race Seat" sorry for the confusion. To our machine shop it really doesn't matter what it is; They can cut it, grind it, mill it, bore it etc. they have every machine imaginable.

    You might want to check here to see the 'official' crown race seat spec (26.43mm to 26.49mm)

    Regarding opening the rear stays from 120mm to 126mm, I'd do it if you're planning to use 6 or 7 speed wheels. It isn't absolutely necessary but it can be a bit of a PITA to spread the rear stays every time you want to change wheels.

    Looks like a nice bike, I bet you'll enjoy it.

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    Iowegian, thanks for the encouragement. I spread the rear stays today using the Sheldon Brown method. Any ideas on how to spread the fork?

  18. #18
    Unique Vintage Steel cuda2k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astropuppy View Post
    Iowegian, thanks for the encouragement. I spread the rear stays today using the Sheldon Brown method. Any ideas on how to spread the fork?
    There should be no reason to spread a fork. All front wheels should be a 100mm spacing, give or take a mm or two just due to manufacturing differences.
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    Got the jsp milled down to iso by the machine shop at work. Should be able to get the frame and fork powder coated this week. Trying to choose between black, yellow or red. Here's a shot of the crown race seat.
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