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Old 12-11-07, 11:42 PM   #1
g-funk
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Electric Oxalic Acid Test

as I've been rebuilding my 2 old phillips 3 speeds I've really appreciated the Oxalic acid. here is my new contraption for bathing rims. at first I was going to use one of those rubbermaid wreath holders but finding the right size was tough and expensive. so I came up with this: here is a few before pics of the rims, tomorrow I'll post the 1/2 way finished product and the next day the completed project. This is for the non believers, as well as the believers who might appreciate the brand new g-funk industries international rim bath. soon will be the jetted model with granite countertops.
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Old 12-12-07, 12:35 AM   #2
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Nice. Now - come up with a way to bathe a fully assembled steel wheel, and you'll REALLY have something!!
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Old 12-12-07, 07:55 AM   #3
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Nice. Now - come up with a way to bathe a fully assembled steel wheel, and you'll REALLY have something!!
Take two 1" x 6" x 8ft boards and cut them in half*, screw them together to form a square, throw a plastic tarp over the square and fill with water and OA.

When done soaking, simply lift the tarp and water the grass. No harm, no foul.

* I actually cut two 4ft and two 3ft boards to form a 3' x 4' square. Big enough for any frame (or two wheels) and saves on water and OA.
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Old 12-12-07, 11:01 AM   #4
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I was thinking that taking a bike box and lining it with a heavy duty plastic garbage bag would work, no?
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Old 12-12-07, 11:08 AM   #5
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I was thinking that taking a bike box and lining it with a heavy duty plastic garbage bag would work, no?
But if you have it standing upright, the weight of the water would push the sides apart.
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Old 12-12-07, 11:19 AM   #6
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big boss man- I don't think the entire wheel is an option with the bearing surfaces inside the hubs and the fact that most steel rimmed wheels come with cheap ass zinc plated spokes. I build a ton of wheels so it's not too big of a deal to tear down the wheels and rebuild I re-use spokes and new nipples. That's actually my second favorite thing to do on a bike, the first are big fat wheelies

My big bath is my daughters old swimming pool, it has an inflatable ring that rises to the water height. I roll it up like a condom to keep the height low and save on OA. we did a frame and and fork in there a week or two ago it came out great!
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Old 12-12-07, 11:22 AM   #7
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You guys seem to not appreciate that the same Oxalic acid solution can be re-used multiple times. I have a small cannister that I put small bits in. I've used it 20 or 30 times, and if the water evaporates too much, I just freshen it up a little.
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Old 12-12-07, 11:40 AM   #8
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You guys seem to not appreciate that the same Oxalic acid solution can be re-used multiple times. I have a small cannister that I put small bits in. I've used it 20 or 30 times, and if the water evaporates too much, I just freshen it up a little.
I have a smaller container that I reuse too. I don't like to leave the big setup uncovered though... I've found dead frogs in the solution.
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Old 12-12-07, 12:35 PM   #9
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big boss man- I don't think the entire wheel is an option with the bearing surfaces inside the hubs and the fact that most steel rimmed wheels come with cheap ass zinc plated spokes.
Bearing surfaces haven't been a problem for me - I've soaked many a steel pedal pair without ill effect. The Oxalic Acid does not penetrate grease or grime really well, and the bearings always roll smooth afterward. Beside, I usually have to rebuild the old hubs I come across, anyway.

You're right about the zinc spokes, though. They seem to have an adverse reaction to the Oxalic Acid.
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Old 12-12-07, 05:04 PM   #10
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Great results!! I have had good luck using citric acid.I wonder which works best-citric or oxalic?Which is cheaper??
I reuse the Citric acid, but I have noticed that over time some sort of mold,yeast, gunk grows in it and forms a kinda gross looking biofilm that floats around in it.
Of course Citric acid is metabolized(citric acid/Krebs cycle), but I still surprised something could grow so quickly(several weeks) in a fairly acidic medium(GUESSING PH 4-5-just a guess).It is usually lidded,so I don't think it is algae??
Does goo grow in the oxalic acid also?
It still works with the goo in it-maybe a bit slower
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Old 12-12-07, 05:08 PM   #11
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I put a complete Schwinn Paramount wheel in an OA bath to get the rust off of the chrome spokes. It worked very well.

I removed the axle and bearings, then coated the bearing cups with a thick layer of grease. After I was done it cleaned up just like new.

My main concerns were the aluminum rim and the spoke nipples, neither of which seemed to suffer any ill effect. I did keep an eye on it and removed it from the solution in about an hour, all that was necessary to derust the spokes.
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Old 12-12-07, 06:19 PM   #12
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I was thinking that taking a bike box and lining it with a heavy duty plastic garbage bag would work, no?
I didn't use garbage bags but I did use a bike box lined with plastic.

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Old 12-12-07, 07:16 PM   #13
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I didn't use garbage bags but I did use a bike box lined with plastic.

What happened to the paint?
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Old 12-13-07, 06:42 AM   #14
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What happened to the paint?
Nothing happens to the paint, or most decals for that matter (paper backed decals will get saturated and slip off). The only time paint is affected is if rust has caused it to bubble up underneath. That rust will be eliminated and the paint will flake off in those areas only leaving bare metal behind (may require light scrubbing to achieve).

Note: Treat bare metal to prevent a recurrence of rust. For the inside of a frame - JP Weigle Framesaver, Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, LPS 4, boiled Linseed oil, or any like product that will leave a waxy coating behind. For the outsides - touch-up paint, clear coat paint, Amsoil's regular metal protector, wax, anything to seal and protect. WD-40 does not qualify in this case.

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Old 12-13-07, 04:38 PM   #15
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Here's a question: is all wood bleach oxalic acid? I'm new to the stuff and picked up a 2 part wood bleach solution at the hardware. Doesn't seem like it's the same.

On the same note, anyone tried the jelly rust remover at the auto store? Does it just get rust or will it take paint too?
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Old 12-14-07, 11:58 AM   #16
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What concentration is your solution? I have some Bar Keeper's Friend, and I'm not quite sure what ratio of powder to water to use. What happens if it's too concentrated? Can chrome be damaged if left in the solution too long?
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Old 12-14-07, 12:50 PM   #17
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I put a complete Schwinn Paramount wheel in an OA bath to get the rust off of the chrome spokes. It worked very well.

I removed the axle and bearings, then coated the bearing cups with a thick layer of grease. After I was done it cleaned up just like new.

My main concerns were the aluminum rim and the spoke nipples, neither of which seemed to suffer any ill effect. I did keep an eye on it and removed it from the solution in about an hour, all that was necessary to derust the spokes.

spokes on higher end wheels are usually stainless steel, which doesn't have the reaction the zinc does.
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Old 12-14-07, 12:54 PM   #18
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What concentration is your solution? I have some Bar Keeper's Friend, and I'm not quite sure what ratio of powder to water to use. What happens if it's too concentrated? Can chrome be damaged if left in the solution too long?
I usually pour in about 1:10 (eyeball measurement) OA to water, seems to work fine. I use the HD wood bleach. I'm not sure the concentrationm on that.
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Old 12-14-07, 04:00 PM   #19
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spokes on higher end wheels are usually stainless steel, which doesn't have the reaction the zinc does.
Yes, true, but not on these Schwinn wheels. They were still using chrome plated spokes in 73/74.
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Old 12-14-07, 04:43 PM   #20
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Yes, true, but not on these Schwinn wheels. They were still using chrome plated spokes in 73/74.
Chrome is okay...Galvanized like on the Raleigh Sports aren't.

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Old 12-14-07, 06:05 PM   #21
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night one

after 24 hours I took the hoop out of the g-funk rim bathinator and gave it a light scrub with a worn out blue scotchbrite from the kitchen. (probably the wrong kind) most of the light rust was off the rim but the major cancer under the rim strip was still there.
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Old 12-14-07, 06:12 PM   #22
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finished

on the second night I took the rim out and gave it a bath in baking soda and scrubbed it again with the pad and some warm soapy water. the amazing thing about this stuff that people don't get with steel wool is that the shiny chrome is still there, where with the steel wool you usually get into whatever is under the chrome which is still shiny but not nearly like this. I finished the rim off with a shot of oil in the rim cavity and some wax. these pics were pre wax.
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Old 12-15-07, 08:18 AM   #23
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Another happy OA ending. Those rims look beautiful now!
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