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  1. #1
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Mondonico Rebuild Project

    Hi, all! Some are aware I'm rebuilding my Mondonico with modern parts, 13-29 and 39-53 Campy 10-speed gearing, with new Record-hubbed tubular wheels, and my old faithful saddle, bars, and Super Record brakes. I've got a set of Servizio Corse stretching on the new wheels, and I see that they do not sit flat around the stem hole, but I'm not sure that's any cause for concern. I've been disassembling the BB, and found some interesting things.

    First the crankset is Shimano 600 6207 series. This is consistent with when I bought the bike used around 1986 or 87, and the original owner had it up to three years. The BB axle is the correct Shimano cup/cone style system, but the fixed and moveable cups are Campy, with *****d inner edges!

    I stuck my fingers in the holes, and found the pins, one each for the chainstays, the seat tube, and the top tube. I haven't decided if I'm going to get it painted, so I haven't gone into the head tube. There was a card in the seat tube (!!!), which said "ARGENTO GRANA FINE" which I think means silver fine grain. The paint is silver, and there is a metallic in it which looks fine, rather than big sparkly particles. I think this means my bike is silver (duhh!) and that it was painted in Italy.

    I also found the threaded holes for the water bottle are not in too great a shape, a consideration for the paint decision.

    The rear drive-side dropout (Campy 1010 I think) has two little threaded holes, one above the axle slot and one below. These holes are made in lands on the inner surface, so I think these are for installing a Porta Catena. But, the seatstay has a little nailhead pin for hanging up the chain, so I don't know why Mondonico thought he needed to build for both.

    Next step is to get the fixed cup unscrewed and to wash the frame. Then I can see the actual paint condition. I might just opt for some automotive metallic silver touch-up paint, or see about getting a touch up from Torelli.

    One of my short-term goals is to get the drivetrain to the point (10-speed friction) where I can ride up and down the block and get the initial loading on the wheels. My builder did stress-relieve them, but recommended I do this and bring them back for touch-up. This step will also tell me if my old C-record front derailleur is going to work, or if I will need to find a modern front der.

    Road Fan

  2. #2
    vjp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post


    The rear drive-side dropout (Campy 1010 I think) has two little threaded holes, one above the axle slot and one below. These holes are made in lands on the inner surface, so I think these are for installing a Porta Catena. But, the seatstay has a little nailhead pin for hanging up the chain, so I don't know why Mondonico thought he needed to build for both.

    The builder didn't have a choice the dropouts came from Campagnolo with the holes. The Porta Catena bombed, it looks like a neat gadget but who wanted to lose a cog just for a quicker (maybe) wheel change?

  3. #3
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    Road Fan,

    I would opt for just retouching the paint, rather than a repaint. Your bike looks pretty good to be, and personally, I don't like the idea of repainting a classic frame, unless absolutely necessary.

    I think the tires should be fine when finally glued and brought to pressure. I know I'm probably preaching to the choir, but if you take time to get them straight on the rims you are using for stretching, it'll be easier to get them straight when you glue them.

    Looking forward to some nice rides with you this Summer.

    j

  4. #4
    outside agitator redmist's Avatar
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    post up some pics!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy View Post
    Road Fan,

    I would opt for just retouching the paint, rather than a repaint. Your bike looks pretty good to be, and personally, I don't like the idea of repainting a classic frame, unless absolutely necessary.

    I think the tires should be fine when finally glued and brought to pressure. I know I'm probably preaching to the choir, but if you take time to get them straight on the rims you are using for stretching, it'll be easier to get them straight when you glue them.

    Looking forward to some nice rides with you this Summer.

    j

    Another thing about painting is that it takes a lot of time! I'd rathre be peddling.

    Same here!
    Last edited by Road Fan; 12-24-07 at 03:32 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmist View Post
    post up some pics!
    You got it, but they'll have to wait until Wednesday. Tonight Mrs Road Fan and I have to cook for a Christmas pot luck tomorrow (in Indiana so I can't drink much!), my time frees up again on Wed.

    I had to get LBS assistance to get the fixed cup out, and the headset does not feel good. I better pull the fork and at least try cleaning, repacking and reinstalling. If I can't get it to adjust smooth when clean, I'll be in the market for an Italian thread headset. Don't know the stack height requirement yet. At least I'll get an accurate fork geometry measurement out of this!

    Road Fan

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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    You got it, but they'll have to wait until Wednesday. Tonight Mrs Road Fan and I have to cook for a Christmas pot luck tomorrow (in Indiana so I can't drink much!), my time frees up again on Wed.

    I had to get LBS assistance to get the fixed cup out, and the headset does not feel good. I better pull the fork and at least try cleaning, repacking and reinstalling. If I can't get it to adjust smooth when clean, I'll be in the market for an Italian thread headset. Don't know the stack height requirement yet. At least I'll get an accurate fork geometry measurement out of this!

    Road Fan
    I think Matt has headset tools, sometimes you can just rotate the fixed cup on the top tube (usually the lower) and any indexing will disappear for another thousand miles or more! Try good grade loose balls in there as well.

    Sorry you'll miss my mesquite smoked rib roast tomorrow, but a drive to IN sounds splendid! BTW, I have my Rossin up for sale, I think it would fit you nicely! I'd even throw in an Alpine rear cog for you
    http://phoenix.craigslist.org/bik/518527699.html

    Best to Mrs. Road Fan.

    Can't wait to see the finished Mondonico!

    j

  8. #8
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy View Post
    I think Matt has headset tools, sometimes you can just rotate the fixed cup on the top tube (usually the lower) and any indexing will disappear for another thousand miles or more! Try good grade loose balls in there as well.

    Sorry you'll miss my mesquite smoked rib roast tomorrow, but a drive to IN sounds splendid! BTW, I have my Rossin up for sale, I think it would fit you nicely! I'd even throw in an Alpine rear cog for you
    http://phoenix.craigslist.org/bik/518527699.html

    Best to Mrs. Road Fan.

    Can't wait to see the finished Mondonico!

    j

    I'm fine with HS tools, I have a homemade press built by my amateur machinist colleague, for the price of half a dozen Mexican lunches!! It's a really precise version of all-thread with fender washers.

    The Rossin is a beauty, but I have that much tied up in my Mondo upgrade, I think. I have other bikes.

    Road Fan

  9. #9
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    I have a 2005 Mondonico Diamond Extra (lugged Columbus Neuron tubing). Tried the modern materials: Titanium, TI-Carbon, and Carbon but, returned to steel. I have a Cinelli (1969) that has always been the gold standard for long distance riding. That is why I went back to steel...
    I saw a silver paint job on a Mondonico last summer. It was a beauty. Good luck with your build. What year is the Mondonico? Tubing? Chrome fork?
    The card might have been intended to keep dropings from the tubing into the BB. I used to take a business card and cover it in grease and place it on the inside of the BB before I would assemble it. Later they started using plastic inserts to do the same job on ball and cup BB assemblies. Now there is a cartridge...Progress.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanster04 View Post
    I have a 2005 Mondonico Diamond Extra (lugged Columbus Neuron tubing). Tried the modern materials: Titanium, TI-Carbon, and Carbon but, returned to steel. I have a Cinelli (1969) that has always been the gold standard for long distance riding. That is why I went back to steel...
    I saw a silver paint job on a Mondonico last summer. It was a beauty. Good luck with your build. What year is the Mondonico? Tubing? Chrome fork?
    The card might have been intended to keep dropings from the tubing into the BB. I used to take a business card and cover it in grease and place it on the inside of the BB before I would assemble it. Later they started using plastic inserts to do the same job on ball and cup BB assemblies. Now there is a cartridge...Progress.
    Hi Deanster, nice to see you again!

    I think mine is '84 or earlier. Silver paint, chrome Mondonico fork, chrome chainstays to within 3" of the BB shell, chrome "socks" 3" up the seatstays. It says Columbus, but it doesn't state the grade. The drive-side frame end has the two holes for a Porta Catena, so that dates the dropout to post-1975 if I recall the thread from a few weeks ago.

    The card was not wrapped around the bearing space, There was a nylon Campy BB sleeve for that purpose. I think the card was there to state the paint color. Originally I thought it would be a business card of the owner, to help with possible theft recovery. I think the card, in Italian, indicates the frame was painted in Italy. Italian paint or US paint was an option at Torelli, for a while at least.

    Road Fan

  11. #11
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Thanks. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Please drop me an email when you post the photos. Have a great Holiday.
    I will try and take some photos of my not-so-vintage Mondonico and show them here.
    Last edited by Deanster04; 12-25-07 at 11:32 AM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Stage 2 report:

    I have the frame bare but not washed, and I have good set of geometry numbers, using a millimeter tape and a digital level with angle finder 0.1 degree resolution.

    Seat tube length 52.2 cm
    TT length 53.3
    Chainstay length 41.3

    Seat tube angle 75 degrees
    Head tube angle 72 degrees
    rake 45.1 mm
    trail 61 mm
    BB drop 7.3 cm

    Makes for a pretty low BB with 21 mm tires (Servizio Corse), 26.4 cm

    The points where the paint is broken reveal possibly complete chrome plating. Is there any risk (other than recreating the decals) of removing the pInt and rebuilding it in bare chrome? The exposed chrome is in excellent condition, no pitting or bubbling.

    Will decals stick well to chrome?

    Road Fan

  13. #13
    Squirrel solveg's Avatar
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    I was talking to Chris Kvale the other day, and he warned me I might have trouble taking the headset off my Mondonico...are you expecting trouble? Is there something unusual about Mondonicos in this regard? I have a campy headset on mine.

  14. #14
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    Sometimes the chrome under paint is 'roughed up' a bit to make the paint adhere. Is it chromium steel or chrome plated?

    Decals stick fine to chrome Schwinn's and Cinelli's, I would think a chrome Mondonico would be no different.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by solveg View Post
    I was talking to Chris Kvale the other day, and he warned me I might have trouble taking the headset off my Mondonico...are you expecting trouble? Is there something unusual about Mondonicos in this regard? I have a campy headset on mine.
    Solveg, the headset came off fairly easy. I used a simple driver, a length of brass curtain rod, to push out the upper fixed race, the lower fixed cup and the crown race. My headset is an aluminum Shimano 600, but I pulled a Campy Record from my Masi a few years ago and it went about the same. If you think it might be a hard part, and you are trying to save a few bucks by doing all the dismantling yourself, either have your LBS knock out the tough parts, or just see if Chris Kvale will handle that part for you.

    What I did have trouble with was was the fixed cup on the bottom bracket. Those are usually a bear, very tight when set right, and often stuck as well.

    For any of these sorts of parts, bike shops have tools to get them out fast. It should not be expensive.

    Did he offer any more details?

    Road Fan

  16. #16
    Squirrel solveg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post

    Did he offer any more details?

    Road Fan
    No... I'm actually hoping he remembers the bike when I bring it to him. I don't know when he painted it last, but he may know the bike. He did offer to take the BB and headset off for me. I'll take him up on that. I've taken off a BB before and I had to get someone with more muscle to help me.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy View Post

    Sometimes the chrome under paint is 'roughed up' a bit to make the paint adhere. Is it chromium steel or chrome plated?
    Good point.

    The frame is chrome-molybdenum steel, being Columbus tubing. I don't think the small amount of alloying chromium results in the appearance of chrome plating. Besides I found a spot of flaking on the front dropout, so it is definitely chromium plating.

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