1984 Trek 760, The Newest Edition to my Bike Family! (Easthill READ ME)
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I wouldn't worry about the tiny bit of flex;this is why it gives the nice compliant ride.
It is a very,very nice bike.The Superbe stuff was considered very,very good back in the day.It was the Japanese answer to Campagnolo(a or o?? at the end can't remember), but it was maybe 40% of the cost of Campy.It certainly gives a very Campy "look" including the little oil ports with the covers on the hubs.
The older steel Treks -MTB and Road-are still bargains.I'm guessing this cost about $300-$500??I'm not asking, just guessing.The Superbe components are pretty desireable;they will ebay for a good price-maybe $200 for the brakes,cranks,derailleur,shift levers, but I don't follow those prices very closely??
Very Nice bike-The frame alone might sell for close to $150-$200 despite the mild rash
Luck,
Charlie
It is a very,very nice bike.The Superbe stuff was considered very,very good back in the day.It was the Japanese answer to Campagnolo(a or o?? at the end can't remember), but it was maybe 40% of the cost of Campy.It certainly gives a very Campy "look" including the little oil ports with the covers on the hubs.
The older steel Treks -MTB and Road-are still bargains.I'm guessing this cost about $300-$500??I'm not asking, just guessing.The Superbe components are pretty desireable;they will ebay for a good price-maybe $200 for the brakes,cranks,derailleur,shift levers, but I don't follow those prices very closely??
Very Nice bike-The frame alone might sell for close to $150-$200 despite the mild rash
Luck,
Charlie
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The 760 was higher up in Trek's lineup, I'm guessing that even if there is no real difference in the feel due to the crown, the price of the 760's crown is higher.
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I wouldn't worry about the tiny bit of flex;this is why it gives the nice compliant ride.
It is a very,very nice bike.The Superbe stuff was considered very,very good back in the day.It was the Japanese answer to Campagnolo(a or o?? at the end can't remember), but it was maybe 40% of the cost of Campy.It certainly gives a very Campy "look" including the little oil ports with the covers on the hubs.
The older steel Treks -MTB and Road-are still bargains.I'm guessing this cost about $300-$500??I'm not asking, just guessing.The Superbe components are pretty desireable;they will ebay for a good price-maybe $200 for the brakes,cranks,derailleur,shift levers, but I don't follow those prices very closely??
Very Nice bike-The frame alone might sell for close to $150-$200 despite the mild rash
Luck,
Charlie
It is a very,very nice bike.The Superbe stuff was considered very,very good back in the day.It was the Japanese answer to Campagnolo(a or o?? at the end can't remember), but it was maybe 40% of the cost of Campy.It certainly gives a very Campy "look" including the little oil ports with the covers on the hubs.
The older steel Treks -MTB and Road-are still bargains.I'm guessing this cost about $300-$500??I'm not asking, just guessing.The Superbe components are pretty desireable;they will ebay for a good price-maybe $200 for the brakes,cranks,derailleur,shift levers, but I don't follow those prices very closely??
Very Nice bike-The frame alone might sell for close to $150-$200 despite the mild rash
Luck,
Charlie
Maybe I'll sell the whole setup other than the bars, stem, and frameset.
Any takers? Haha.
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ridethe cliche,
I was being "polite" with my guess-just in case you paid $500.Real life it is certainly worth $250-$300scratches and all.Now I was being about 90%($180) honest with my guess on all the Superbe parts-they would fetch $180+ sold individually(maybe more).The slightly scratched frame is still worth $100-$125+.
You did ok-nice bike.Shine those Superbe parts up,and they do well on Ebay.
Folks love those Reynolds frames.
Luck,
Charlie
Crankset $60
Pedals-$40
Brakes-ft and rear-$60
You would do ok on those parts-might do better on the crankset-lotta folks like the pedals and brakes.It is hard to see how much wear/scratches are on them, but they are very good parts.You might get $250 selling all the Superbe parts.
I was being "polite" with my guess-just in case you paid $500.Real life it is certainly worth $250-$300scratches and all.Now I was being about 90%($180) honest with my guess on all the Superbe parts-they would fetch $180+ sold individually(maybe more).The slightly scratched frame is still worth $100-$125+.
You did ok-nice bike.Shine those Superbe parts up,and they do well on Ebay.
Folks love those Reynolds frames.
Luck,
Charlie
Crankset $60
Pedals-$40
Brakes-ft and rear-$60
You would do ok on those parts-might do better on the crankset-lotta folks like the pedals and brakes.It is hard to see how much wear/scratches are on them, but they are very good parts.You might get $250 selling all the Superbe parts.
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ridethe cliche,
I was being "polite" with my guess-just in case you paid $500.Real life it is certainly worth $250-$300scratches and all.Now I was being about 90%($180) honest with my guess on all the Superbe parts-they would fetch $180+ sold individually(maybe more).The slightly scratched frame is still worth $100-$125+.
You did ok-nice bike.Shine those Superbe parts up,and they do well on Ebay.
Folks love those Reynolds frames.
Luck,
Charlie
Crankset $60
Pedals-$40
Brakes-ft and rear-$60
You would do ok on those parts-might do better on the crankset-lotta folks like the pedals and brakes.It is hard to see how much wear/scratches are on them, but they are very good parts.You might get $250 selling all the Superbe parts.
I was being "polite" with my guess-just in case you paid $500.Real life it is certainly worth $250-$300scratches and all.Now I was being about 90%($180) honest with my guess on all the Superbe parts-they would fetch $180+ sold individually(maybe more).The slightly scratched frame is still worth $100-$125+.
You did ok-nice bike.Shine those Superbe parts up,and they do well on Ebay.
Folks love those Reynolds frames.
Luck,
Charlie
Crankset $60
Pedals-$40
Brakes-ft and rear-$60
You would do ok on those parts-might do better on the crankset-lotta folks like the pedals and brakes.It is hard to see how much wear/scratches are on them, but they are very good parts.You might get $250 selling all the Superbe parts.
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Woah! According to the literature the groupset is supposed to be superbe pro! I checked the brakes and they have no 'pro' written on them. What gives???
Maybe I should sell it and get that 105, ohhh decisions decisions.
Does anyone know who's doing a lot of restorations or might be interested in the groupset, I'd rather sell and buy at the same time so I don't take as hard of a hit. Oh the joy of being a college student
Maybe I should sell it and get that 105, ohhh decisions decisions.
Does anyone know who's doing a lot of restorations or might be interested in the groupset, I'd rather sell and buy at the same time so I don't take as hard of a hit. Oh the joy of being a college student
Last edited by ridethecliche; 12-26-07 at 12:40 AM.
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What are you talking about "joy".... it sucks.
I bet you could get a decent price for that group. I would get the 105. I have been saying that all along though.
And on the bike and girlfriend thing. I built my girlfriend an old Hawthorn 3sp. I got it in pretty minty conditon for 5 bucks. I taught her how to build a wheel changing over from the 333 hub to an SA coaster. It was a great time. She comes from a long ballet background and had only riden a bike once when I met her. Now we curise the nieghborhood in the summer and she can hold her own talking about bikes. She is still learning and acutally wanting to learn more. Its awsome. I hope you and your girl friend enjoy it.
I bet you could get a decent price for that group. I would get the 105. I have been saying that all along though.
And on the bike and girlfriend thing. I built my girlfriend an old Hawthorn 3sp. I got it in pretty minty conditon for 5 bucks. I taught her how to build a wheel changing over from the 333 hub to an SA coaster. It was a great time. She comes from a long ballet background and had only riden a bike once when I met her. Now we curise the nieghborhood in the summer and she can hold her own talking about bikes. She is still learning and acutally wanting to learn more. Its awsome. I hope you and your girl friend enjoy it.
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Woah! According to the literature the groupset is supposed to be superbe pro! I checked the brakes and they have no 'pro' written on them. What gives???
Maybe I should sell it and get that 105, ohhh decisions decisions.
Does anyone know who's doing a lot of restorations or might be interested in the groupset, I'd rather sell and buy at the same time so I don't take as hard of a hit. Oh the joy of being a college student
Maybe I should sell it and get that 105, ohhh decisions decisions.
Does anyone know who's doing a lot of restorations or might be interested in the groupset, I'd rather sell and buy at the same time so I don't take as hard of a hit. Oh the joy of being a college student
#36
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Well, I was mainly joking about you saying the 760's fork crown "costs" more because of the bike it was on. That just kind of struck me as funny.
My fork looks a bit like this, and your fork is flat across the top. I have quite a few bikes from the same era, and none of them had a straight top fork, lugged or non lugged. That looks like a mid to late 70's style. Yours also has non aero brakes, while mine a lower model from the year before "has" aero brakes. It's just the little odd differences in our two bikes
I was referring to on the fork, and Cardiac Kid's post made enough sense for me. Then you came along
and said the bit about you guessing the fork crown costs more even though there might be no difference in feel.
https://www.novacycles.com/catalog/po...D=1309&image=0
My fork looks a bit like this, and your fork is flat across the top. I have quite a few bikes from the same era, and none of them had a straight top fork, lugged or non lugged. That looks like a mid to late 70's style. Yours also has non aero brakes, while mine a lower model from the year before "has" aero brakes. It's just the little odd differences in our two bikes
I was referring to on the fork, and Cardiac Kid's post made enough sense for me. Then you came along
and said the bit about you guessing the fork crown costs more even though there might be no difference in feel.
https://www.novacycles.com/catalog/po...D=1309&image=0
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Last edited by Bikedued; 12-26-07 at 06:47 AM.
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Bd,
My 770 has the same flat fork crown.
Ridethecliche, personally I think the original suntour Superbe gruppo (sans Pro) is more valuable
than the later Superbe Pro. I know on ebay it is!
marty
My 770 has the same flat fork crown.
Ridethecliche, personally I think the original suntour Superbe gruppo (sans Pro) is more valuable
than the later Superbe Pro. I know on ebay it is!
marty
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Lotek is dead on-folks love the early Superbe stuff.I kinda lost track of everything "bike" from between 1982-2000(bad neck-big soft tires,and upright riding posture saved me).When the Superbe stuff originally appeared-about 1977-1978 it was considered "almost Campy"without the Campy price.I casually follow it on ebay-and it sells for good prices.
The components are worth more than the $175 or so I'm guessing you actually paid for the bike.
You got a great deal,and the Trek frames-esp 531-are worth 2X what they were 2 years ago.
Luck,
Charlie
The components are worth more than the $175 or so I'm guessing you actually paid for the bike.
You got a great deal,and the Trek frames-esp 531-are worth 2X what they were 2 years ago.
Luck,
Charlie
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Well, I was mainly joking about you saying the 760's fork crown "costs" more because of the bike it was on. That just kind of struck me as funny.
My fork looks a bit like this, and your fork is flat across the top. I have quite a few bikes from the same era, and none of them had a straight top fork, lugged or non lugged. That looks like a mid to late 70's style. Yours also has non aero brakes, while mine a lower model from the year before "has" aero brakes. It's just the little odd differences in our two bikes
I was referring to on the fork, and Cardiac Kid's post made enough sense for me. Then you came along
and said the bit about you guessing the fork crown costs more even though there might be no difference in feel.
https://www.novacycles.com/catalog/po...D=1309&image=0
My fork looks a bit like this, and your fork is flat across the top. I have quite a few bikes from the same era, and none of them had a straight top fork, lugged or non lugged. That looks like a mid to late 70's style. Yours also has non aero brakes, while mine a lower model from the year before "has" aero brakes. It's just the little odd differences in our two bikes
I was referring to on the fork, and Cardiac Kid's post made enough sense for me. Then you came along
and said the bit about you guessing the fork crown costs more even though there might be no difference in feel.
https://www.novacycles.com/catalog/po...D=1309&image=0
Hehe, sorry for my lack of understanding. Though I figured out what you were referring to originally!
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I'm sorry for the long rant that's going to follow, but this is the message I sent one of the forum members.
I paid 280 for it.
Talked the seller down from 350. He was willing to hold onto it till spring if he didn't get atleast 280 and we both knew he'd get more for it in better weather.
I got 175 for the peugeot I sold so it wasn't as expensive as putting all the money down at once.
My hesitation to sell the stuff comes from looking at ebay. The brakes sold for 56 bucks for a set I could clean mine up and get more probably. The NOS FD sold for 31 bucks, so I could expect maybe 20 if I cleaned it up. I have the original suntour superbe pedals still on the bike, and those sold for 76 bucks but were the pro version, so maybe 50 for mine if I cleaned them up. They were a bit rusty though so maybe about 30. Maybe 20 bucks for the shifters. I don't even know if the wheels would sell or anything.
In either event I'm looking to spend, ~300 on the 105 stuff and atleast 350 bucks on a new wheelset since I'm better off buying a better wheelset for my race rig and using the old wheelset from that on the trek. Not to mention atleast 80 bucks on a new campy compact crankset that I found on nashbar, and then I'd need a bottom bracket too. So I'm looking to sell my stuff for about a 150 maybe 200 with the crankset, and spending about 700-750 bucks on everything else for the bike.
I could spend that much money but it seems a little absurd right now because I could have bought a used lemond with STI for that much. I think it might be best to just avoid doing this right now just because it's a lot of money for something that I just got and don't have a huge attachment to yet. It's going to be my campus bike when it isn't gross out (when I use the mtb) and it'll be a big target with that stuff on it.
Maybe simply getting barcons is a better idea...
I paid 280 for it.
Talked the seller down from 350. He was willing to hold onto it till spring if he didn't get atleast 280 and we both knew he'd get more for it in better weather.
I got 175 for the peugeot I sold so it wasn't as expensive as putting all the money down at once.
My hesitation to sell the stuff comes from looking at ebay. The brakes sold for 56 bucks for a set I could clean mine up and get more probably. The NOS FD sold for 31 bucks, so I could expect maybe 20 if I cleaned it up. I have the original suntour superbe pedals still on the bike, and those sold for 76 bucks but were the pro version, so maybe 50 for mine if I cleaned them up. They were a bit rusty though so maybe about 30. Maybe 20 bucks for the shifters. I don't even know if the wheels would sell or anything.
In either event I'm looking to spend, ~300 on the 105 stuff and atleast 350 bucks on a new wheelset since I'm better off buying a better wheelset for my race rig and using the old wheelset from that on the trek. Not to mention atleast 80 bucks on a new campy compact crankset that I found on nashbar, and then I'd need a bottom bracket too. So I'm looking to sell my stuff for about a 150 maybe 200 with the crankset, and spending about 700-750 bucks on everything else for the bike.
I could spend that much money but it seems a little absurd right now because I could have bought a used lemond with STI for that much. I think it might be best to just avoid doing this right now just because it's a lot of money for something that I just got and don't have a huge attachment to yet. It's going to be my campus bike when it isn't gross out (when I use the mtb) and it'll be a big target with that stuff on it.
Maybe simply getting barcons is a better idea...
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When I got the bike, I noticed that there was some lateral sway in the front wheel where I could see the hub move a few mm on the axle. The seller told me to take some cone wrenches and tighten the nuts at the hub.
When I tighten it I noticed that the sway was gone, but the wheel wasn't spinning freely at all. And when I loosen it so that it spins, it sways a little. I found a 'sweet spot' but at that point it makes a sound like it isn't happy. Sounds like the bears are hitting something.
Maybe I damaged the bearings when I tightened them, or maybe the bearings need to be swapped out and repacked and greased.
Anyway, that's why I haven't had the chance to go out and ride it yet.
Any ideas?
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Take apart, clean out thoroughly, re-pack with grease and find that sweet spot again. Then go for your ride.
Note that when you clamp the quick release down nice and firmly, you'll compress things a little. Adjust it so it's just a smidge looser than the sweet spot, and you won't see it have lots of drag after you put it on the bike. I'd try 1/8 turn increments looser than the "sweet spot" until it's still sweet when mounted.
Note that when you clamp the quick release down nice and firmly, you'll compress things a little. Adjust it so it's just a smidge looser than the sweet spot, and you won't see it have lots of drag after you put it on the bike. I'd try 1/8 turn increments looser than the "sweet spot" until it's still sweet when mounted.
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Take apart, clean out thoroughly, re-pack with grease and find that sweet spot again. Then go for your ride.
Note that when you clamp the quick release down nice and firmly, you'll compress things a little. Adjust it so it's just a smidge looser than the sweet spot, and you won't see it have lots of drag after you put it on the bike. I'd try 1/8 turn increments looser than the "sweet spot" until it's still sweet when mounted.
Note that when you clamp the quick release down nice and firmly, you'll compress things a little. Adjust it so it's just a smidge looser than the sweet spot, and you won't see it have lots of drag after you put it on the bike. I'd try 1/8 turn increments looser than the "sweet spot" until it's still sweet when mounted.
https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The main reason we are telling you to do this is that the hardest part of overhauling the hub is adjusting the tightness. Since you are doing that anyway, you should go ahead and do the rest. This shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour.
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Riding technique might alleviate the ghost shifting, but I'm not any example. I just can't believe that everyone who rode these frames had this problem. In fact, when younger my nearby friend rode this bike as a racer with pretty decent results. Hard to imagine he's a lot stronger as a middle-aged man than he was as a young racing snake aggressive about his results.
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As long as you are in there, you may as well replace the bearings, since they cost next to nothing. Get you one of those little magnet on the end of a pen things too. It saves a lot of work. This is a topic that is thoroughly covered on the Park Tool website, that was mentioned a long time ago. You can also look here.
https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The main reason we are telling you to do this is that the hardest part of overhauling the hub is adjusting the tightness. Since you are doing that anyway, you should go ahead and do the rest. This shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour.
https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The main reason we are telling you to do this is that the hardest part of overhauling the hub is adjusting the tightness. Since you are doing that anyway, you should go ahead and do the rest. This shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour.
I think I'm just going to take everything apart and clean it up and use it as is for a while. Everything feels sweet. I'll swap to modern components once this bike doesn't serve a 'beater' purpose as well. Hopefully I'll build a single speed or a fixie at the school co-op once I'm back.
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What are you talking about "joy".... it sucks.
I bet you could get a decent price for that group. I would get the 105. I have been saying that all along though.
And on the bike and girlfriend thing. I built my girlfriend an old Hawthorn 3sp. I got it in pretty minty conditon for 5 bucks. I taught her how to build a wheel changing over from the 333 hub to an SA coaster. It was a great time. She comes from a long ballet background and had only riden a bike once when I met her. Now we curise the nieghborhood in the summer and she can hold her own talking about bikes. She is still learning and acutally wanting to learn more. Its awsome. I hope you and your girl friend enjoy it.
I bet you could get a decent price for that group. I would get the 105. I have been saying that all along though.
And on the bike and girlfriend thing. I built my girlfriend an old Hawthorn 3sp. I got it in pretty minty conditon for 5 bucks. I taught her how to build a wheel changing over from the 333 hub to an SA coaster. It was a great time. She comes from a long ballet background and had only riden a bike once when I met her. Now we curise the nieghborhood in the summer and she can hold her own talking about bikes. She is still learning and acutally wanting to learn more. Its awsome. I hope you and your girl friend enjoy it.
It should be a blast taking everything apart and cleaning and fixing it.
I think I'm going to stick with the superbe stuff for now. Its starting to grow on me and I'd rather be sure that everything feels good before I upgrade the bike. Plus, I'd rather not make a bike that I'm going to use to ride around campus a larger target. 'Trek' already has more recognition than 'Peugeot'!
Thanks again. I'll go to an lbs tomorrow and pick up the bearings and grease and see if they can give me any advice!
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In this case, I'll be the one learning. My girlfriend works at a bike shop and overhauled her mom's old bike earlier this year or last year. I might know what I'm talking about theoretically for some things, but she's got MUCH more experience than I do.
It should be a blast taking everything apart and cleaning and fixing it.
I think I'm going to stick with the superbe stuff for now. Its starting to grow on me and I'd rather be sure that everything feels good before I upgrade the bike. Plus, I'd rather not make a bike that I'm going to use to ride around campus a larger target. 'Trek' already has more recognition than 'Peugeot'!
Thanks again. I'll go to an lbs tomorrow and pick up the bearings and grease and see if they can give me any advice!
It should be a blast taking everything apart and cleaning and fixing it.
I think I'm going to stick with the superbe stuff for now. Its starting to grow on me and I'd rather be sure that everything feels good before I upgrade the bike. Plus, I'd rather not make a bike that I'm going to use to ride around campus a larger target. 'Trek' already has more recognition than 'Peugeot'!
Thanks again. I'll go to an lbs tomorrow and pick up the bearings and grease and see if they can give me any advice!
Nice choice on the girlfriend. That is awesome. The more I read what you and others say sticking with the Superbe and grabing some barcons would be a sweet set up to see if you want to stick with that frame.
Edit.
Adjusting the bearings is a pita to do at first. But stick with it. After working at a shop all summer I can adjust a hub in about 20 seconds. And like USAZoro said with a QR hub you want to leave just the tiniest bit of play.
#48
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Nice choice on the girlfriend. That is awesome. The more I read what you and others say sticking with the Superbe and grabing some barcons would be a sweet set up to see if you want to stick with that frame.
Edit.
Adjusting the bearings is a pita to do at first. But stick with it. After working at a shop all summer I can adjust a hub in about 20 seconds. And like USAZoro said with a QR hub you want to leave just the tiniest bit of play.
Edit.
Adjusting the bearings is a pita to do at first. But stick with it. After working at a shop all summer I can adjust a hub in about 20 seconds. And like USAZoro said with a QR hub you want to leave just the tiniest bit of play.
The brakes still have the original pads in them, it's awesome. The only thing is that the hoods have the weinmann hoods which don't fit perfectly and squish a little before they contact the metal part of the hood. I can't wait to get this all fixed up and take it for a ride. I wish I knew some better routes where I live. I like the area where I go to school in CT so much more for riding.
#49
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Here's an '84 Trek 760 that sold fairly recently on eBay: $567 + shipping https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170151772023
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72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
#50
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Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
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Sono più lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.
Sono più lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.