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Old 01-27-08, 10:08 PM   #1
paulwwalters
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1981 Trek 18-speed road bike

'81 Trek 610

Hi, I've never posted on this part of the forum before so excuse me if this isn't proper (posting a thread about your bike).

I got this today (for free, no less) from a friend of mine who got it from a friend who had stored it for a while. It's in great shape, and needs only new bar tape, new tires, new tubes, and that stupid mirror taken off the brake hood.

Which is what I'm getting to... it's got 27" wheels with 27"x1 1/4" tires, which I understand can still be purchased (Nashbar, etc.) but they appear to be glued onto the tubes. I've heard of this before, and I don't know much about it tbh. Will clinchers work with these wheels? Do they even make 27" clinchers? Also, the brake cables come out of the top of the hoods, how do I tape over these? (Maybe they're not meant to be.)

Thanks for any help you can provide, and I like looking through the pics of your bikes, they're great and have given me some good ideas.

And I know, this thread is useless without pics, which I'm working on. For now:
  • 1981 Trek serial #008479 model 610
  • 24" lugged steel frame, blue sparkly paint
  • 27" Matrix Sahara wheels
  • tan sidewall tires- 27"x 1 1/4"
  • Suntour Cyclone M-II rear der.
  • Suntour Cyclone M-II front der.
  • Suntour downtube shifters
  • Sugino AT cranks
  • 18 speed- 3front 6back
  • DIA COMPE brakes
That's all I know, but it's 98% rust free (just a little on the clips) and it's in really good shape, given how it's 9 years older than me. It also came with a Serfas saddle, and a rear rack w/ Cannondale trunk bag.

Thanks again and I'll try to get pics ASAP.

EDIT: Here they are!


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Old 01-27-08, 11:38 PM   #2
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We like pictures.

They still make 27" Clinchers, if your tires say 27X1, 1-1/4 or 1-1/8 thats what you have.

Yes the cables are supposed to come out of the tops of the hoods, no you don't tape over them.
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Old 01-27-08, 11:40 PM   #3
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There is a lot of info on vintage Treks here
http://www.vintage-trek.com

Look here to see how your brake cables should run
http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekBrochure1982.htm

If the tires are marked 27 they are not glued on. I suspect the rubber has broken down and stuck to the rim. You should be able to pull them off. You will be able to get 27 inch tires and tubes from any bike shop.

The Trek 610 is a great bike. The frame was hand built in the USA. I've been a Trek dealer since 1980.

Post some pictures.
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Old 01-28-08, 12:04 AM   #4
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Thanks guys. Yes, I found vintage trek and that's how I figured out the bike was a 610 (I looked up the s/n.) I also went on the park tool web site and found out that my tires aren't tubulars (I don't even know if 27" tubulars exist) because the rims don't look like the tubular rims.

However I couldn't really find the bead on my tires, but I didn't look too hard at them.

Admittedly, I am a road bike noob, but I do have a bit of experience with mtbs.
Thus, I know nothing about road bike tires or friction downtube shifters.

I am charging my camera, so tomorrow I should be able to do an extensive photoshoot.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-28-08, 06:27 PM   #5
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Pictures are here.
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Old 01-28-08, 07:31 PM   #6
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Pictures are here.
That's great but unless you post them, they don't do us any good.
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Old 01-28-08, 07:33 PM   #7
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That looks like at least a 25" frame and perhaps the largest, which was 25.5." i.e., from the middle of the BB to the top of the seat tube.

Is that a 24T inner chain ring?



P.S., what is that on the front wheel axle ... an old odometer with a star-shaped wheel that turns when it's hit by a little peg attached to a spoke?
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Old 01-28-08, 08:03 PM   #8
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P.S., what is that on the front wheel axle ... an old odometer with a star-shaped wheel that turns when it's hit by a little peg attached to a spoke?

Looks like a headlight to me in front of the headtube to me; maybe the two are connected?

Nice bike, nice rack on there, too. You need to replace or inflate that rear tire.

Ishiwata tubing?
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Old 01-28-08, 09:50 PM   #9
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That's great but unless you post them, they don't do us any good.
I'm going to assume you're running a text-only browser, or you have a screen reader and are being vengeful for some unknown reason.
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Old 01-28-08, 09:55 PM   #10
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Looks like a headlight to me in front of the headtube to me; maybe the two are connected?

Nice bike, nice rack on there, too. You need to replace or inflate that rear tire.

Ishiwata tubing?
It's a headlight connected to the dynamo at the base of the seat tube. I removed both, and may reinstall later. The odometer is connected to a rubber belt which in turn is connected to a wheel on the hub, the odometer hangs from the axle. I removed this as well.

The tires have rotted and are crumbly, inflation is not an option. I will be purchasing new tires, tubes, and bar tape hopefully within the week.

Reynolds 531 tubing, Ishiwata forks and stays.

Thanks for the replies!
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Old 01-28-08, 09:59 PM   #11
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That looks like at least a 25" frame and perhaps the largest, which was 25.5." i.e., from the middle of the BB to the top of the seat tube.

Is that a 24T inner chain ring?



P.S., what is that on the front wheel axle ... an old odometer with a star-shaped wheel that turns when it's hit by a little peg attached to a spoke?
According to vintage-trek.com the frame is a 24" based on the serial number (posted above).

I don't know about the chain ring, I guess I could count for you?

The front axle thingy is an odometer, see above post.

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-08, 11:47 PM   #12
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I don't know about the chain ring, I guess I could count for you?
The number of teeth is sometimes engraved on the outside circumference of the chainring; do a close inspection near the teeth before you resort to actual counting.
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Old 01-29-08, 12:07 AM   #13
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You have Presta valves. I'm going to say that they are tubular, but you've written some confusing things. Some tubulars say 27", some say 700c, some say nothing because all tubulars use the same size rim anyways.

It would be best if you showed us some detail photos.
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Old 01-29-08, 08:36 AM   #14
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That's a huge frame! You must be a tall rider.
I say strip all that junk off and turn it into a fixed gear bike.

(dodges flying helicomatic freewheels)

Just kidding! Just kidding!

Those old Treks are beauty! My daughter has one, that color, but a few years older (different logo). NIce frames. With a rack and a Dynamo Headlight, I'd be surprised if they were tubular tires... but stranger things have happened.

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Old 01-29-08, 09:40 AM   #15
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Beautiful, beautiful. It looks like it's time for you to post a thread in the Touring forum and give it the long ride it's itching for!
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Old 01-29-08, 10:07 PM   #16
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You have Presta valves. I'm going to say that they are tubular, but you've written some confusing things. Some tubulars say 27", some say 700c, some say nothing because all tubulars use the same size rim anyways.

It would be best if you showed us some detail photos.
Yeah I was kinda confused myself... as it turns out I read that tubulars are glued onto the rims, these are clinchers.

What threw me is that the tires and tubes are stuck together, for some weird reason. Maybe it's the age.
So I was like, wtf, these are clincher rims with tubulars in them? I was confused. And then I pulled them off and saw that the tubes and tires were indeed separate, just accidentally joined through many years of sitting in storage.

Sorry for being confusing above.
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Old 01-29-08, 10:13 PM   #17
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That's a huge frame! You must be a tall rider.
I say strip all that junk off and turn it into a fixed gear bike.

(dodges flying helicomatic freewheels)

Just kidding! Just kidding!

Those old Treks are beauty! My daughter has one, that color, but a few years older (different logo). NIce frames. With a rack and a Dynamo Headlight, I'd be surprised if they were tubular tires... but stranger things have happened.
I want a fixie, but being in hilly SW Missouri I'll keep it geared for now.
Then when I someday get a Specialized Allez or better we'll see about converting it. The dropouts aren't track style, so for a fixed conversion I'd probably buy an IRO Jamie Roy frame. That said, my dream is to have a Jamie Roy with bullhorns, a front disc brake, and a coaster brake.
It would be fun.

Right now I'll just pour money into this bike and make it quite nice... eventually brifters, new brakes, and new drivetrain would be sweet, along with 700c wheels and tan sidewall tires with matching bartape and Brooks saddle.

Man I'm dreaming...
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Old 01-29-08, 10:15 PM   #18
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Beautiful, beautiful. It looks like it's time for you to post a thread in the Touring forum and give it the long ride it's itching for!
The longest I've ever ridden at one time is 30 miles... if there was a flat area in Southern Missouri I might be game for more.
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Old 01-30-08, 09:49 AM   #19
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I want a fixie, but being in hilly SW Missouri I'll keep it geared for now.
Then when I someday get a Specialized Allez or better we'll see about converting it. The dropouts aren't track style, so for a fixed conversion I'd probably buy an IRO Jamie Roy frame. That said, my dream is to have a Jamie Roy with bullhorns, a front disc brake, and a coaster brake.
It would be fun.

Right now I'll just pour money into this bike and make it quite nice... eventually brifters, new brakes, and new drivetrain would be sweet, along with 700c wheels and tan sidewall tires with matching bartape and Brooks saddle.

Man I'm dreaming...
1) You have really nice half-step-plus-granny gearing and some of the best derailleurs ever made, which I would keep instead of falling for the fixie fad.
2) If you do not like taking a hand off the bars to change gears, strongly consider barcons, which are cost-effective and which would be great on that bike. Brifters are an expensive waste of money, particularly since you could not use them without updating the entire driveline.
3) You do not need to rush to 700C wheels, because 27" tires are still readily available. I just put a great-looking, nicely-performing pair of Vittoria 27x1-1/4" blackwalls on my UO-8.
4) A Brooks saddle is always a great idea.
5) For safety, your first purchase should be a set of salmon KoolStop brake pads.
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Old 01-30-08, 11:06 AM   #20
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1) You have really nice half-step-plus-granny gearing and some of the best derailleurs ever made, which I would keep instead of falling for the fixie fad.
2) If you do not like taking a hand off the bars to change gears, strongly consider barcons, which are cost-effective and which would be great on that bike. Brifters are an expensive waste of money, particularly since you could not use them without updating the entire driveline.
3) You do not need to rush to 700C wheels, because 27" tires are still readily available. I just put a great-looking, nicely-performing pair of Vittoria 27x1-1/4" blackwalls on my UO-8.
4) A Brooks saddle is always a great idea.
5) For safety, your first purchase should be a set of salmon KoolStop brake pads.
+1 to all of the above. Smart choices.
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Old 01-30-08, 12:00 PM   #21
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If I recall (and my eyesight is keen on your pics) the DT shifters are fully removeable. So going to BArcons is not only a good idea (I have them, I love them) but aesthetically you don't lose anything.

Other strictly aesthetic updates that might be nice are aero brake levers so you can remove the cable routes up over the top of the bars.

as cool as it is... I would lose the Dynamo (saves weight) and get a battery powered headlamp.

Eventually some Nitto Randonneur bars

Brooks B-17? dat's a no brainer!
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Old 01-31-08, 05:58 PM   #22
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Nice touring setup. Is that headlight wired through the frame or are the wires clamped on?
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Old 03-21-08, 04:52 PM   #23
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Nice touring setup. Is that headlight wired through the frame or are the wires clamped on?
They were zip tied on... I took them off, along with the light and dynamo, flick stand, and mirror.
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Old 03-21-08, 06:32 PM   #24
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The first thing I would do is get some top tube cable clips. I'd look for Dia Compe clips to match the brakes, but generic clips will work just as well. Stainless steel is best.
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Old 03-21-08, 08:46 PM   #25
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1) You have really nice half-step-plus-granny gearing and some of the best derailleurs ever made, which I would keep instead of falling for the fixie fad.
2) If you do not like taking a hand off the bars to change gears, strongly consider barcons, which are cost-effective and which would be great on that bike. Brifters are an expensive waste of money, particularly since you could not use them without updating the entire driveline.
3) You do not need to rush to 700C wheels, because 27" tires are still readily available. I just put a great-looking, nicely-performing pair of Vittoria 27x1-1/4" blackwalls on my UO-8.
4) A Brooks saddle is always a great idea.
5) For safety, your first purchase should be a set of salmon KoolStop brake pads.
Allow me to take respectful issue with point #1: Fixies, in spite of the current vogue, are not simply a fad. They've been around forever; the urban wannabe messenger scene aside, they are a good means to becoming a stronger, smoother rider. Generations of racers have used them for training and still do. And riding fixed can be simply enjoyable in and of itself, even for a 50+er like me. Saint Sheldon himself hath verily said all this and more. So there, I say unto you. And also, nyah, nyah!

But I agree with John: if you're tempted to try FG, do it with another bike. And you don't have to shave off braze-ons or otherwise vandalize the frame for the sake of "fashion". I can convert my humble Schwinn back to geared if I wish in the future and still have a dandy bike.

As for point 3: I have 27" Vittoria Zaffiros -- on my fixie. Love 'em.

Point 5: KoolStop black are good too. I'm running them on a front brake only (per Sheldon) on my FG and they stop on the proverbial dime.
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