Raleigh Professional Photo & Website
#1
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Raleigh Professional Photo & Website
Many thanks to those on this forum that responded when I was in the process of acquiring the Raleigh Professional in the photo below (yup, the seatpost is backwards).
Here's a page from our website with many more photos (macros of details) of the bike the day I brought it home. Any advice or comments appreciated. I may paint it and get new decals eventually.
https://kay-on-kavenga.home.att.net/raleigh.htm
Here's a page from our website with many more photos (macros of details) of the bike the day I brought it home. Any advice or comments appreciated. I may paint it and get new decals eventually.
https://kay-on-kavenga.home.att.net/raleigh.htm
#2
Senior Member
Such a nice bike, that deserved far better treatment than it obviously received. But, on to the positive. Search the forum for rust removal and treat the parts accordingly.
I'd pull the cranks and BB adjustable cup off asap and see if the BB can be salvaged. It's most likely a Campy, and while some might recommend replacing it with a cartridge unit, the taper will be off slightly. If it's in good shape it will treat you well as long as you service it regularly.
Clean and re-grease the headset as well, or replace if necessary.
Before you re-assemble the HS and BB, though, treat the inside of the frame with Framesaver.
If there are spots on the bike where the rust is coming through, you can clean it up and touch up with hobby paint or nail polish to protect the frame until you decide to paint it.
Hubs will also need re-packing and fresh bearings. Pedals, too, when you get around to it.
The brake levers look about right to me. Need hoods, though. There was just a thread a couple days ago about replacements.
Have fun.
(edit) Scratch that bit about the pedals. Just get some new ones. If you don't want to spring for Campy, get some MKS road quill pedals for about $25. Very nice.
I'd pull the cranks and BB adjustable cup off asap and see if the BB can be salvaged. It's most likely a Campy, and while some might recommend replacing it with a cartridge unit, the taper will be off slightly. If it's in good shape it will treat you well as long as you service it regularly.
Clean and re-grease the headset as well, or replace if necessary.
Before you re-assemble the HS and BB, though, treat the inside of the frame with Framesaver.
If there are spots on the bike where the rust is coming through, you can clean it up and touch up with hobby paint or nail polish to protect the frame until you decide to paint it.
Hubs will also need re-packing and fresh bearings. Pedals, too, when you get around to it.
The brake levers look about right to me. Need hoods, though. There was just a thread a couple days ago about replacements.
Have fun.
(edit) Scratch that bit about the pedals. Just get some new ones. If you don't want to spring for Campy, get some MKS road quill pedals for about $25. Very nice.
#3
ride on
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+1 to what jbonamici already said.
My addition: DON'T repaint, it's got the original paintjob only once.
Instead completely strip the frame (bottom bracket fixed cup & headset cups can stay) and bath it in oxalic acid for some three days. It'll pretty probably turn out A LOT better than it is now - you can hardly destroy anything. Just try it.
Clean the parts in the meantime (very fine steel wool and/or a brass brush will do a good job on steel as well as aluminium parts).
For the more refined techniques search the C&V forum, it's a great source.
[And dont' ride it anymore before you strip it - you could easily destroy some bearings/cups. The grease will probably have dried.]
You have a real gem at your hands.
Take your time and do it right, this bike is worth the trouble.
EDIT: 'n' pleeeze don't park bikes on the chainrings. Yes, they CAN bend. Yes, the teeth DO suffer.
And you will be learning what vintage Campagnolo parts can cost soon enough, believe me. (Just to think of the 3 top tube cable guides .)
My addition: DON'T repaint, it's got the original paintjob only once.
Instead completely strip the frame (bottom bracket fixed cup & headset cups can stay) and bath it in oxalic acid for some three days. It'll pretty probably turn out A LOT better than it is now - you can hardly destroy anything. Just try it.
Clean the parts in the meantime (very fine steel wool and/or a brass brush will do a good job on steel as well as aluminium parts).
For the more refined techniques search the C&V forum, it's a great source.
[And dont' ride it anymore before you strip it - you could easily destroy some bearings/cups. The grease will probably have dried.]
You have a real gem at your hands.
Take your time and do it right, this bike is worth the trouble.
EDIT: 'n' pleeeze don't park bikes on the chainrings. Yes, they CAN bend. Yes, the teeth DO suffer.
And you will be learning what vintage Campagnolo parts can cost soon enough, believe me. (Just to think of the 3 top tube cable guides .)
Last edited by Cool Steel; 02-21-08 at 01:50 PM.
#4
feros ferio
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I concur. Clean it up, but do not repaint it. Repainting is expensive and should be reserved for bikes whose original finish is either gone or completely beyond hope. Yours looks pretty good to me.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#5
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Oxalic Acid is an absolute miracle. Just keep zinc plated stuff out of it, and aluminum for more than just a short soak.
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1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
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1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#6
Senior Member
I agree that the pic of the whole bike makes it look decent, but in the details it looks like rust is coming through. You might consider a new thread just to deal with the paint - I'm sure Dr. Deltron would have some useful words of advice. In any event, please post some fresh pics when you've cleaned it up.
#7
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I have used both Oxalic and Muriatic acid for cleaning parts before, mostly bronze boat parts. If I do go this route, can any of you tell me the strength of the solution I should use.
I also have some experience spraypainting automotive laquers and clear coats, so with the proper guidance I wouldn't be too afraid of attempting it myself if that turned out to be the best option.
Thanks again to everyone for the Do's, Don'ts, comments, etc.
I also have some experience spraypainting automotive laquers and clear coats, so with the proper guidance I wouldn't be too afraid of attempting it myself if that turned out to be the best option.
Thanks again to everyone for the Do's, Don'ts, comments, etc.
#8
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Hey, I just found a guy in Australia that has new decals/repros of the old waterslide type frame decals on your bike. I just ordered a full set of the correct ones for my Comp GS, so until I get them I can't comment on the quality. They look good in the pics though, are way cheaper than any other place I've seen, and work like new decals that just stick on:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI
#9
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Other than the handlebars, I've only found a couple of other bits that are not Campangolo. The idler pulley is Shimano (the jockey pulley is Campagnolo, but it is cracked. The dust caps (?) over the axle are Specialized. I assume the previous owner must have installed these somewhere along the line.
I'll check out the decal website. Thanks.
Any suggestions on what I should do with the extra set of rims with the sewn-in tires?
Poprad, do you ride the STP? I'm signed up for the first time this year.
I'll check out the decal website. Thanks.
Any suggestions on what I should do with the extra set of rims with the sewn-in tires?
Poprad, do you ride the STP? I'm signed up for the first time this year.
#11
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Naval jelly can be applied to the rusty areas to keep them from growing.
Strong acids will etch and eat metals; use them carefully. Strong alkali like sodium hydroxide will eat aluminum; best to use something like sodium metasilicate, sodium phosphate di- or tribasic, sodium carbonate.
Citric acid will shine up aluminum, brass and copper quite well.
With all these solutions, be sure to rinse very well with lots and lots of water. Then protect the surface with wax or some anti-corrosive.
Strong acids will etch and eat metals; use them carefully. Strong alkali like sodium hydroxide will eat aluminum; best to use something like sodium metasilicate, sodium phosphate di- or tribasic, sodium carbonate.
Citric acid will shine up aluminum, brass and copper quite well.
With all these solutions, be sure to rinse very well with lots and lots of water. Then protect the surface with wax or some anti-corrosive.
#12
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I haven't done the STP but am considering it. I did sign up for Cycle Oregon, which blew $850 out of the account in one swell foop. I need to check out the STP site and see if it's within my travel schedule.
#13
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Poprad, you pushed me over the edge. I have been hemming and hawing about Cycle Oregon (and the $850) but thanks to you I finally punched the key that hammers my credit card. See you there. I won't be on the Raleigh!
BTW, I just noticed that the 1978 Raleigh Professional in the catalog states that the big chain ring has 51 teeth. Mine has 52. Maybe it's not a '78 after all.
Dbakl, I can't find the "little black clips" on either of the hubs. Did you mean the hubs with or without the colored Campy decal?
BTW, I just noticed that the 1978 Raleigh Professional in the catalog states that the big chain ring has 51 teeth. Mine has 52. Maybe it's not a '78 after all.
Dbakl, I can't find the "little black clips" on either of the hubs. Did you mean the hubs with or without the colored Campy decal?
#14
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The ones with the winged quick release graphic in the center are the Nuovo Tipos. The ones with the stickers look like they might be Nuovo Record from the quick release nuts, but the stickers are not right: I don't know what that's about.