How to make a vintage Schwinn a fixie
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stringbreaker
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How to make a vintage Schwinn a fixie
I have a spare Varsity frame with the cable guides broken or bent and want to make it a fixie to sell. Its just a frame with the crankset (Ashtabula single piece) and a fork how do I make it a single or fixie or what the heck is the difference and which way would be the easiest?
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(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
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SB.........Single speed is easier. Just take the current 5 speed freewheel off and put a bmx freewheel on it with a 1/8" bmx chain. I might have that stuff I could toss your way. To do it nicely you would need to re-dish the wheel as well. The easiest way to make a fixie out of it would be to buy a pre-made wheel with a cog and lockring and swap the chain. If you want to do it cheaply (which I don't recommend) you could again take off the current freewheel and spin on a track cog and a bottom bracket lockring with some locktite to hold it together. I think you could possibly open yourself up for a liability lawsuit that way though. There can be some issues with chainline as well.........
The differance between a fixie and a single speed (even though technically they are both a single speed) is a fixie doesn't coast. If the wheel moves (forward or backward) the pedals move accordingly. Pm me for more specifics if interested. As you know I've gone this route a few times.
Kelly D
The differance between a fixie and a single speed (even though technically they are both a single speed) is a fixie doesn't coast. If the wheel moves (forward or backward) the pedals move accordingly. Pm me for more specifics if interested. As you know I've gone this route a few times.
Kelly D
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I second the singlespeed option. Find yourself a coaster brake hub for your rear wheel. The Singlespeed and Fixed Gear Forum is another great place to get info. on converting bikes. Also, try here: https://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
I do not recommend the loctite option. Those are also called suicide hubs.
You could try using a Surly Fixxer on an old rear wheel.
"Even if it ain't broke, you can still fix it with our Surly Fixxer hub converter. The Fixxer allows you to convert any Shimano cassette hub (except Silent Clutch, 2004 Dura Ace or pre-1997 Dura Ace) into a true fixed-gear. By simply removing the cassette body and replacing it with our adapter, you can use a fixed track cog and lockring for safe coast-free riding. A popular conversion for track racers, spring time trainers, fixed-gear commuters and messengers, the Fixxer includes all parts necessary for installation, including axle, bearing, cones, spacers, and axle nuts. Most converted hubs can be spaced 120, 126, 130 or 135mm, and can even be used with a freewheel if a freewheeling single-speed conversion is desired."
I do not recommend the loctite option. Those are also called suicide hubs.
You could try using a Surly Fixxer on an old rear wheel.
"Even if it ain't broke, you can still fix it with our Surly Fixxer hub converter. The Fixxer allows you to convert any Shimano cassette hub (except Silent Clutch, 2004 Dura Ace or pre-1997 Dura Ace) into a true fixed-gear. By simply removing the cassette body and replacing it with our adapter, you can use a fixed track cog and lockring for safe coast-free riding. A popular conversion for track racers, spring time trainers, fixed-gear commuters and messengers, the Fixxer includes all parts necessary for installation, including axle, bearing, cones, spacers, and axle nuts. Most converted hubs can be spaced 120, 126, 130 or 135mm, and can even be used with a freewheel if a freewheeling single-speed conversion is desired."
Last edited by bbattle; 03-16-08 at 06:34 AM.
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I have one of those old bent tube schwinn sprints which I currently use as a fixed gear. The main problem I have is that the pin on the crank on which the chainring sits moves back and forth no matter how much I tighten the bottom bracket cone against the crank when I pedal or slow down. Its kinda scary. A fix would be to use press in converter (harris sells them) to convert the ashtabula BB to a modern one and run a 3 piece crankset.
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I have one of those old bent tube schwinn sprints which I currently use as a fixed gear. The main problem I have is that the pin on the crank on which the chainring sits moves back and forth no matter how much I tighten the bottom bracket cone against the crank when I pedal or slow down. Its kinda scary. A fix would be to use press in converter (harris sells them) to convert the ashtabula BB to a modern one and run a 3 piece crankset.
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I experimented with a few, but you need a perfect fit to prevent play. I tried lots of JB Weld, but that broke after a few days of riding.
#7
stringbreaker
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Sounds like more trouble than I want to go to. Think I'll just sell the frame for ten bucks on CL
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(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
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If you want single speed, just leave the freewheel in place and route the chain over the sprockets you want to use.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#9
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This bike is in pieces the biggest being the frame and fork. I have enough projects going now I think this one is going to go to someone that wants to mess with it not me. I've decided I just want it gone for free so its Craigslist or anyone on the board that wants to take it off my hands come and get it.
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This isn't a Varsity but it is the same basic frame. As the others said a single speed is the way to go. This one uses an old set of 700C wheels i had. Roger
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Not every fixed gear rider is an insane skidder. I ride a fixed gear with front and rear brakes and I do skid (more lately as I am getting ready to put a cheep track wheelset on with nice araya aero rims that I don't want to brake too much on because they don't have a flat braking surface, but anyway...). I have been running a 16t 3/32 dura-ac cog for over 2 years on my fixed gear screwed on with grease! at first it came off a few times when I tried to skid to I road it a lot and used the brakes always.... I only skid in the rain for fun where there is little chance of spinning the cog off... now there seems to be nothing I can do to get it off, no matter how much I skid and how much weight I thrown on it while skidding.... but as I said if you run brakes it's not much of a problems... often when it broke free I'd sit down, brake an pedal the cog back on before it came off and kept going. I didn't have enough room for a lockring BTW.
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Amen. I'm in my 50s and ride fixed with brakes because it's good training, and simply enjoyable on its own merits. The latter was a surprise, actually. I expected riding fixed to be like "eating your spinach" as the saying goes. I take it on all but the fastest, hilliest club rides and am planning on doing a century on it this year.
And despite it being called a "suicide" hub, my red Loctite+BB lockring cog on the original hub that came with the World Sport has not shown any sign of letting go.
And I've said it before but, geez, that World Sport is a comfy frame.
And despite it being called a "suicide" hub, my red Loctite+BB lockring cog on the original hub that came with the World Sport has not shown any sign of letting go.
And I've said it before but, geez, that World Sport is a comfy frame.