27" rims' braking surface
03-24-08, 09:19 AM
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27" rims' braking surface
I'm rebuilding my Trek 400 and switching back to 27s from my last fiddling. I have these old Aray rims from an early 70's Nishiki - they're pretty cool looking with the ridge in the cross section, but the brake surface seems very narrow (around 6mm) and not machined flat like the 700s I'm used to. They seem a bit rounded but not necessarily from wear.
Will it be possible to get good stopping power with these and if so what kind of narrow pad am I looking at? There's always some good double-walled to be had for a reasonable amount at Harris, so I don't *need* to make these old ones work. But it would be cool, eh?
Will it be possible to get good stopping power with these and if so what kind of narrow pad am I looking at? There's always some good double-walled to be had for a reasonable amount at Harris, so I don't *need* to make these old ones work. But it would be cool, eh?
Last edited by jebensch; 03-24-08 at 09:21 AM. Reason: links
03-24-08, 09:32 AM
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Tubular rims? That's pretty common. Set the brake blocks in a position comparable to what you would with a flat walled rim. Use the same sized blocks too. If the braking surfaces are clean, they'll stop just fine. After a few rides, the blocks will start to conform to the curve, and you'll have more contact area with light braking pressure..
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03-24-08, 01:07 PM
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No tubular...27" clinchers. I've never been near a tubular. They terrify me. Clinch clinch clinch.
03-24-08, 01:42 PM
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I have the same set of rims that are (thankfully) already laced up to some gold label normandy luxe hubs. I too think they look really cool; like an early effort to go aero maybe? I'm looking forward to using them on my motobecane mixte.
03-24-08, 01:49 PM
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Just me reading too fast. That, and only having seen tubulars that have that curved surface.
Whether tubular or not is immaterial, try to position the brake blocks like you would on any other rims, and they should work fine.
Whether tubular or not is immaterial, try to position the brake blocks like you would on any other rims, and they should work fine.
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03-24-08, 08:33 PM
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I have a pair of those Arayas. When you lace them, observe the spoke holes carefully -- they are biased front and rear as well as left and right.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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03-24-08, 09:54 PM
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03-24-08, 10:38 PM
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it means that the holes are drilled at different angles based on the direction in which the spokes leave the hub and enter the rim - you have to consider that not only are they drilled for right & left side orientation but must also account for which holes are drilled for the leading/pulling spokes vs. the holes intended for the trailing spokes
Last edited by caterham; 03-24-08 at 10:43 PM.
03-25-08, 10:39 PM
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Damn, I didn't know that. Now I have to go check my wheels. When I bought my 400, I took the wheels apart and relaced them. Luckily, I replaced those wheels with 700c ones, but I was saving them for a future bike.
03-26-08, 07:47 AM
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Whoa. Didn't know that was a consideration. Thanks Caterham. I went to a closing-up bike shop yesterday and found a box of DT spokes in the size I need (at least I *think* I need - first time using Spoke Calc). Pretty stoked to get lacin'!
03-26-08, 08:13 AM
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I didn't realize the front/rear thing either. I haven't ever looked for it. Is it something that's obvious if you're looking at the rim?
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