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  1. #1
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    can i sand my clearcoat ? (spraypaint help)

    sorry to keep bothering everyone with my stupid spray painting questions.. but im almost done !

    im finally clear coating my bike..ive already stripped, primed and painted it. (im using spraypaint)

    it looks great, but my clear coat feels rough. can i sand my clear coat and spray another coat.

    it was smooth until my clear coat.

    thanks

  2. #2
    juneeaa memba!
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    Use a very fine sandpaper, like 280 or greater. I usually go down a grit between each coat, finishing at about 600. you can then polish with something like swirlcut.

  3. #3
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    It's called orange peel or FLA(fat lady's ass) it's easy to get rid of.
    You need to wet sand it, get a spray bottle and fill it with a water and dish soap mixture. You only need to put maybe a teaspoon for 16oz. of water. Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper, you don't need to put a lot of pressure on it to get it smooth, if you doubt yourself in your ability to do so, you can glue it to a sponge for dish, just sand it till it's smooth. . .
    After that it's all pretty easy, make sure you put a drop cloth or tarp down so you don't have to mop up too much of the mess.

    Also make sure to rinse it off, ESPECIALLY if you plan on putting more clear coats.

  4. #4
    TXHC amillhench's Avatar
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    For clearcoat you will want to use 1500 or 2000 wet sand paper. Not regular sandpaper, but sand paper made for wet application.
    You can find tons of info about this by simply googling "wetsand clearcoat". With spray clear its not really worth it, and if you can feel it but can't see it, why bother?
    I used actual 2 stage CC and didn't wetsand. Looks fine, its a bike not an El Camino Cheers.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    Rubbing compound?

  6. #6
    AEO
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    rubbing compound comes after the wet 1500~2000 grit sanding.
    Just go to the automotive section, they'll have tons of 400~2000 grit waterproof sandpaper. Best to use silicon carbide over aluminum oxide if you can find any.

    rubbing compound is anywhere from 5000~10000 grit and works well if you have the buffing wheel attachment to your power tool. Otherwise it's a lot of rubbing work
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
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  7. #7
    "this is not suck" j0e_bik3's Avatar
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    google "colorsanding and polishing" and you'll get about ten thousand pages and 47 you tube vid clips

    also polishing with a rotary buffer on a tubular surface like a bicycle frame is just ASKING for a burn through, ESPECIALLY if it's a lugged frame.

    one note! spray can paint wont sand very well until it's COMPLETELY cured and rock hard, and thats going to be about 30-45 days after you shot it.

    if it was me, and I was where you are,...I'd sand the entire thing with 400 wet till all the "FLA" is sanded out, then before shooting it again, PRACTICE on a steel pipe so you figure out HOW to shoot with NO orange peel.

    then you don't have to sand and polish,...... trust me it's a thousand times easier to just blow on another coat of clear than to try and finesse a tubular bicycle frame.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member ricohman's Avatar
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    1500-2000 wet sanding.
    Careful around any edges though. With to much pressure you will go right through the clear.

  9. #9
    Senior Member jebensch's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=j0e_bik3;6527100
    one note! spray can paint wont sand very well until it's COMPLETELY cured and rock hard, and thats going to be about 30-45 days after you shot it.

    [/QUOTE]

    +1

    In my experience with Krylon or Rustoleum types; even 600 or 800 has taken the clear right off even with light pressure when I tried it a couple days later.
    Steel-loving cheapskate

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