blankgen

Hi,

I've been riding this bike for the past couple years but it's pretty much been a tool for me to get around. Now I'm getting more interested in the bike and I have a few questions:






* Can anyone help me ID it? I guess that it's mid 70s but that's all I got
* The paint is in bad shape with lots of chips in the finish. There is surface rust and I'm wondering how I should handle it. I'd like to avoid powder coating because I do like the decals (plus I'm on a budget).
* I'm about to put some new tape on the bars, does shellac make the bars more or less slippery? Is it worth the hassle?
(and no you aren't seeing things, there is no front derailleur)

Thanks

unworthy1

I won't try to ID it, there are expert Peugeot-o-philes who will come along shortly. It's obviously a pretty nice one with all 531 tubing and some good components.
I'd suggest you avoid completely stripping it and losing the decals as well as the original paint (you can get replacement decals, but you can't get "original" back once it's gone). Try treating the rust spots with phosphoric or oxalic acid and spot touch-up paint (that will save you $$, too).
Shellac on CLOTH tape gives a nice tackiness (not sticky if done right). I like mixing my own, but if you buy store-bought get a small can, it goes bad over time, and apply thin multiple coats...say 6 or so.
Nice Bike!

retyred

1976 PX10. Top of the line in it's day

blankgen

Thanks!
Is there any advantage to mixing your own other than ability to control the size of the batch?
Awesome
I guess that I got my money's worth ($10)

hxzero

Ugh, I am jealous of all you people who get nice stuff for such absurdly low prices.

miamijim

Pretty much.... I'll call it a '77-'78 because of the tall rectangular head tube decal versus the square one, but, it could be a '76. Regardless, you a very nice bike.

go here: www.Cyclespeugeot.com and check out the serial number page. Tell us what your date codes are.

Jim

FlatTop

*
Whoa, I guess they are still out there.

Grand Bois

Is that a Super LJ rear derailer?

cudak888 

Curious - where's the FD?

-Kurt

blankgen

I'll check on the serial number and rear derailer when I get home. How do I identify it as a super lj? Will there just be a label?

And I have no idea where the front one is. I bought it from Salvation Army and it wasn't there so I'm assuming that it broke and the previous owner just left it somewhere in his/her garage.

cooker

Is it a Brooks seat or something else? Too dark to see.

blankgen

^It's an Ideale

splytz1

If you're looking for the right (or almost-right) fd, it's here:

https://www.velo-orange.com/si102frde.html

but it will will cost you 4 1/2 times what you paid for the bike.

Nice score.

blankgen

I'm actually in the process of converting it to a fixed gear, but I plan on putting the gears back on if I get a new bike so I'll save that link.
Thanks

cyclotoine

It could be, but by 1976/77 shouldn't it have been paired with SLJ shifters (i.e. retro friction) and not simplex criterium?

Edit: just looked at the 77 catalog.. only the PY came with SLJ, that is almost certainly an SX 410 on the OPs bike, still nice but a tad heavier, used parallelogram plates that were stamped steel reinforced delrin (sp?).

splytz1

In my opinion a mid-70's PX-10 in very good condition is not the peugeot you want to be converting into a fixed gear (way too nice!), but, just my opinion. You DO realize that the PX-10 is a revered (by some), classic road bike, right, with true provenance and racing history? And that there are plenty of old UO-8s and other bike boom peugeots out there that you could get for the same price and convert...? Just sayin'...

At least you're keeping the components. Sorry for the rant.

miamijim

SX410T SP rear derailleur with Criterium DT levers is listed as standard equiptment for '77 and '78

blankgen

No apology needed because I had no idea what I was dealing with
But I'm gonna go ahead with the conversion because I already have the new rear wheel and I'm attached to the bike. I definitely won't be making any irreversible changes to it though.

barba

I'll give you $20 for it. Double your money!

If you don't cut anything off and keep the parts so you can convert it back when you come to your senses, I say go for the conversion.

unworthy1

as far as the shellac: I do work on furniture as a side-line, so I have a preference for quality finishes, and it is an advantage to make up just as much as you need for a job: no waste. Bullseye is fine for utility sealing, but I think "cutting" your own gives a better feel to the bar tape, and you can choose between several different grades of shellac, too. I usually use the super blond de-waxed (cause I use that most often on furniture) but darker stuff like garnet can allow you to customize color, too, plus you can add colorants to the shellac (UTC, universal tinting colors) to produce shades unknown to man or nature.
But for most of us, a small can of Bullseye and a bristle brush will be enough.