Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Benelux

  1. #1
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Benelux

    I bought a Huffy the other day (posted about it here). Turns out it's actually a late 50's or early 60's Raleigh Sprite, rebadged as a Huffy. Anyway, it's got Benelux components. Are they worth trying to salvage? I'll need to strip them, clean them and then try to piece it all back together again to try to get it working. Is it worth the time, do you think? I know that, from what I've read, they're not the greatest parts but I'd kind of like to keep this bike as original as I can. Any suggestions or tips? Any good web sources for 'restoring' this ol' thing?

    Any help or advice is much appreciated.
    CENTER]

  2. #2
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    14,778
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That is a tough call. If you have a normal-low bandspring rear derailleur, it is indeed cr@p, but at least it is original cr@p. What I did with my very similar Cyclo was to replace it with a same-period Campagnolo Gran Sport, which was a vast improvement, great-looking and capable of hitting all gears.

    My biggest objection to reverse-action rear derailleurs is that a slipping or snapping control cable will throw your chain into your spokes.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  3. #3
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That would work. Now, to fine Campy derailleurs that won't break the bank...
    CENTER]

  4. #4
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Southern Florida
    My Bikes
    http://www.theheadbadge.com
    Posts
    22,731
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Question - are the Cyclo's springs limited only by the cable, and no limit stop of any kind? Never seen one in person, hence the question.

    Incidentally, let me know if you do dump them - I do fancy oddball components.

    -Kurt

  5. #5
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
    Question - are the Cyclo's springs limited only by the cable, and no limit stop of any kind? Never seen one in person, hence the question.

    Incidentally, let me know if you do dump them - I do fancy oddball components.

    -Kurt
    Haven't figured out the operation, yet. It's not working at all. I removed the components from the bike yesterday evening so I can do a throrough cleaning. This is the first I've seen one of these as well (it's actually what drew me to buy it, that and I was confused by the English 'Huffy'). Once I get it working, if I can, I'll decide whether to leave it or "upgrade" to Campy.
    CENTER]

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,228
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I limit the travel on mine with the cable length - to keep the chain from going off into the spokes.

    If the cable fails - well - the thing is so stiff, crusty, cranky, and lame, I doubt it can travel much on it's own. But it sure looks cool, and it's period correct, and that's what counts. No one in their right mind, back in the day, would put any fancy Italian crap on a Sports or a low end racer.

  7. #7
    rhm
    rhm is online now
    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NJ, NYC, LI
    My Bikes
    1945? Fothergill, 1948 Raleigh Record Ace, 1954 Drysdale, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1972 Fuji Finest, 1983 Trek 720, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
    Posts
    12,300
    Mentioned
    30 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    That is a really cool looking bike, and it looks to be amazingly original-- like, even the orginal bar tape. Personally, I don't think a vintage Campy makes any more sense than, say, Suntour. I'd get the Benelux system working as well as possible, and then find out if the bike is fun to ride. It may turn out to be a bike that you only want to ride once in a while, in which case it makes sense to keep it as the classic it is. On the other hand, if it turns out to be a bike you want to ride a lot, take the Benelux stuff off and store it, and put less valuable, and more functional, derailleurs.

    Thanks for the Benelux manual, too! That may prove to be a valuable resource. In fact... do you think you do a better scan of it some time?

  8. #8
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    14,778
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rhm View Post
    That is a really cool looking bike, and it looks to be amazingly original-- like, even the orginal bar tape. Personally, I don't think a vintage Campy makes any more sense than, say, Suntour. ...
    At least the Campagnolo would be period-correct.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,228
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Can I second that request for a quality scan of the instructions? I'd love to post it on my page about my bike.

    http://www.sciencemonster.net/machin...%20sports.html

    I could really use some instructions! I've taken the derailler apart - it's pretty basic inside, but it'd be great to have factory instructions for adjusting the damn thing. One hint: If you take apart the lever, there's a little paper disk in there that is needed to maintain friction. Mine fell apart when I pulled the thing apart, and the friction wouldn't work right until I cut up a piece of heavy paper stock and replaced it.

  10. #10
    rhm
    rhm is online now
    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NJ, NYC, LI
    My Bikes
    1945? Fothergill, 1948 Raleigh Record Ace, 1954 Drysdale, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1972 Fuji Finest, 1983 Trek 720, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
    Posts
    12,300
    Mentioned
    30 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by John E View Post
    At least the Campagnolo would be period-correct.
    I understand, and you make a good point; my point is that for a period correct restoration, you can't beat the Benelux even with a better period-correct derailleur. If you're not going to ride the bike, it doesn't matter if the Benelux doesn't work. If you're going to ride the bike, in my opinion, it makes more sense to 'upgrade' the derailleurs the way a ca. 1970 owner would have done; that's why I suggest Suntour. Of course that hypothetical 1970 owner might have gone Huret or Simplex or even Campy; but I think a 60's Suntour would be perfect. I also suggest, don't hurt the Benelux!

  11. #11
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rhm View Post
    Thanks for the Benelux manual, too! That may prove to be a valuable resource. In fact... do you think you do a better scan of it some time?
    I'll do a real scan of the docs this week-end some time and post or e-mail them to anyone who's interested. Those are just digital pics I snapped on the dining room table.

    I haven't had a chance to really tear into the Benelux parts yet, I plan on getting some cleaning time in this evening. I'm a little nervous about pulling it all apart, hopefully I'll get it all back together again. I think I've decided to do what you recommended and leave this as original as possible. The saddle will obviously need to be replaced, as it's unridable as is. I'm thinking of trying to find a Brooks B-72, since a lot of the old Schwinn's had them, I can't off the top of my head remember the saddle brand name that's on it now (I'm at work, damn jobs!) but it's not Brooks.

    I doubt this bike will ever be a daily rider, it weighs too damn much! But, I will enjoy the occasional spins down to the Farmer's Market and the discussions sure to come up at the bike valet!

    Thanks to eveyone for their comments so far, I'll post the progress, slow as it's sure to be.

    Any suggestions on getting the cables working smoothly? They're pretty unique looking (to me) and I'm not sure that modern cables are going to work (for the brakes, anyway, the shifters should be replaceable). I really like the idea of keeping (or replacing with the same) the white cable housings, as they're not anything like any of the more modern cables. I'll snap some photos of what I mean when I get home.
    Last edited by nosferaustin; 04-25-08 at 08:56 AM. Reason: because "og" does not equal "of"
    CENTER]

  12. #12
    rhm
    rhm is online now
    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NJ, NYC, LI
    My Bikes
    1945? Fothergill, 1948 Raleigh Record Ace, 1954 Drysdale, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1972 Fuji Finest, 1983 Trek 720, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
    Posts
    12,300
    Mentioned
    30 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Re. your seat, I suspect someone who knows what to do would be able to get that saddle into usable condition; not usable for century rides, but good enough for the purpose you describe. I won't pretend to be the guy who knows what to do, but no doubt the first step is to get some oil into the fibers.

    Re. the Benelux, same thing, more or less; are you sure it needs to come apart? Get some penetrating oil in there, and let it do its job, then apply gentle force. What's the derailleur made of? If there's no brass in it, you may be able to soak the whole derailleur in a molasses water solution to dissolve the rust; then dry it and apply penetrating oil....

    Re. the cables, same thing, almost. First get some oil in there, then get the cables moving. It may not be necessary to replace anything, but it shouldn't be hard to replace the inner wire if necessary. If the housing is bent, straighten it carefully, by hand. If it pinches the inner wire, you may be able to unpinch it with pliers. You're missing a couple clips to hold the housing to the frame, especially the down tube; those will help a lot.

    I have a ca 1951 Norman, very rusty, the brake cables on which were frayed and completely frozen when I got it; oil and gentle force got them working, but I still can't get the nuts on the caliper loose, so haven't replaced the cables-- but the brakes work fine!

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,228
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I was intimidated by my Cyclo when I first got it, but it's really simple to take apart and put back together. The spring is low tension, and it's all very logical.

    That said, I picked up an early 1960s-era Svelto I swap in when I need reliability. It's not as pricey as a Gran Sport, but it's a simple little cool bit of engineering. And at $20, it was a hellava lot cheaper than even the Cyclo.

  14. #14
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, I did some cleaning on the rear derailleur this evening, it shined up really well and seems to be working properly. I did end up taking it completely apart and had a little difficulty puting it back together again because of the spring tension (and my general awkwardness, I guess). But it looks great and I'll definitely be re-installing it. Thanks again for all of the advise. Tomorrow, the front derailleur! And I'll get those scans up as soon as I can.
    CENTER]

  15. #15
    Senior Member nosferaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
    My Bikes
    1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
    Posts
    105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Haven't scaned my docs yet (scanner's not working at home) but I did find this link: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/benelux-adj.html with some good info.
    CENTER]

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •