Learned an important lesson yesterday
#1
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Learned an important lesson yesterday
My lesson was: if you sell a C&V bike, don't forget to put the shifting back on index for newbies.
Story:
I had bought an 89 Schwinn Traveler six months ago. I cleaned & tuned it up. I had been riding it some, but decided to move it on out. I had taken off the dork disk and had the shifting set to friction. I sell it to a college kid who takes it on a 5 mile ride and shifts it all the way up to 1st and instead of adjusting the trim, he just leaves it there. The rear derailer eventually decides to kick the chain into the spokes.
The limit stops were set up fine for index and I had never thought about check them for friction, but 1 broken spoke and 8 damaged ones later . . .
Anyway, I felt bad for not checking that and fixed the wheel for the kid, but in the future, I will leave the shifting on bikes that I sell to index and keep that dork disk on.
Story:
I had bought an 89 Schwinn Traveler six months ago. I cleaned & tuned it up. I had been riding it some, but decided to move it on out. I had taken off the dork disk and had the shifting set to friction. I sell it to a college kid who takes it on a 5 mile ride and shifts it all the way up to 1st and instead of adjusting the trim, he just leaves it there. The rear derailer eventually decides to kick the chain into the spokes.
The limit stops were set up fine for index and I had never thought about check them for friction, but 1 broken spoke and 8 damaged ones later . . .
Anyway, I felt bad for not checking that and fixed the wheel for the kid, but in the future, I will leave the shifting on bikes that I sell to index and keep that dork disk on.
#2
surly old man
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Dork!
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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SB forever
#3
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It might have done just the same if it had been set to indexing just the same. Sounds to me like the lower limit stop wasn't set down far enough.
When setting RD's, I usually like to adjust the derailer no further to the left then necessary - if the derailer in question will shift into and retain the low gear (even when tourqed hard) whilst sitting a fraction of a mm off to the right of the cog, I will leave it there.
Otherwise, I will center it, but under no circumstances allow the derailer to sit even minutely off to the left to aid shifting. If the cage appears to have an inward swing to it, I'll also check the dropout and derailer to check for bend damage. If derailer related, it gets replaced with a straight RD - pie-plate or not.
-Kurt
When setting RD's, I usually like to adjust the derailer no further to the left then necessary - if the derailer in question will shift into and retain the low gear (even when tourqed hard) whilst sitting a fraction of a mm off to the right of the cog, I will leave it there.
Otherwise, I will center it, but under no circumstances allow the derailer to sit even minutely off to the left to aid shifting. If the cage appears to have an inward swing to it, I'll also check the dropout and derailer to check for bend damage. If derailer related, it gets replaced with a straight RD - pie-plate or not.
-Kurt