No bikes were hurt making this fixie
05-06-08, 12:41 AM
#26
shaken, not stirred.
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Just to be different here is my fixie.
Healing Fixie.JPG
It has had one non-reversible mod - I ground off the chain guard holder so that I could fit a decent size front chainring on. It is currently running 52x15 but that is only 65 gear inches.
I brought it as a frame with the stem, front brake, bottom bracket and have built it up into a useful little commuter. It now has full length mudguards on it and soon will have the dynohub connected to some lights.
Healing Fixie.JPG
It has had one non-reversible mod - I ground off the chain guard holder so that I could fit a decent size front chainring on. It is currently running 52x15 but that is only 65 gear inches.
I brought it as a frame with the stem, front brake, bottom bracket and have built it up into a useful little commuter. It now has full length mudguards on it and soon will have the dynohub connected to some lights.
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05-06-08, 07:33 AM
#27
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We start out in diapers.
Then we get a single speed trike.
Then we have other bikes with and without gears.
If we stay active, we get old.
Then we get a single speed trike.
Then we get back in diapers.
Full circle.
Then we get a single speed trike.
Then we have other bikes with and without gears.
If we stay active, we get old.
Then we get a single speed trike.
Then we get back in diapers.
Full circle.
05-06-08, 07:54 AM
#28
feros ferio
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That's precisely my point. If I gear it at 50 inches for the 12 to 14% climbs I often encounter, I won't be able to keep up with traffic on the flats or descents. If I gear it at 70 inches for the flats, I won't have the legs to push it up a 12% grade. The old English 3-speeds with the Sturmey AW hubs had a pretty decent range of 50" for climbs, 66" for level cruising, and 88" for descents, but the jumps between gears were too severe for my tastes. Widen that range to at least a full 2:1, such as 94 down to 47, and provide enough gears for a 6 or 7 percent progression, and you have a nearly optimal system which will make efficient use of the rider's power output over varying terrain without taxing the chain windup capacity of a vintage derailleur system. Friction or even linear indexed shifter and derailleur systems are so simple, rugged, and reliable that the single speed simplicity argument completely eludes me. My admittedly strong bias is that selecting the proper gear at the proper time is an important part of the fun of cycling.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
05-06-08, 08:01 AM
#29
feros ferio
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For any given gear ratio, a larger chainring and cog combination will always outlast a smaller set. As tooth count drops, driveline longevity falls even faster, because increasing force along the chain is shared by a decreasing number of teeth. If you want 54 gear-inches, a 52-26 combination will significantly outlast a 38-19.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
05-06-08, 08:16 AM
#30
freed psycho. RUN.
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two cents: I absolutely love riding geared, namely like you said, to be able to select the perfect gear on every grade.
however all shifting systems have their upkeep and maintenance, and I have used and maintained my share of five, ten, and 27 speed bikes. the fixed gear and singlespeed bike is meant to be as simple as possible to basically rule out maintenance, while remaining an emminently rideable bike.
and if its strength you miss, i do suggest a fixed gear. I run low, about 70 gear inches due to all of the hills I regularly must crest. However I can make it to the top of a 25% grade at running speed, usually to the suprise of fellow cyclists and pedestrians. It comes down to becoming a stronger cyclist, and learning proper positioning for both climbing and sprinting.
IMHO everyone should ride a fixed gear until they learn how to pedal, climb and sprint, only then should they be allowed to get a real geared bike.
however all shifting systems have their upkeep and maintenance, and I have used and maintained my share of five, ten, and 27 speed bikes. the fixed gear and singlespeed bike is meant to be as simple as possible to basically rule out maintenance, while remaining an emminently rideable bike.
and if its strength you miss, i do suggest a fixed gear. I run low, about 70 gear inches due to all of the hills I regularly must crest. However I can make it to the top of a 25% grade at running speed, usually to the suprise of fellow cyclists and pedestrians. It comes down to becoming a stronger cyclist, and learning proper positioning for both climbing and sprinting.
IMHO everyone should ride a fixed gear until they learn how to pedal, climb and sprint, only then should they be allowed to get a real geared bike.
05-06-08, 10:54 AM
#31
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It seems to me that a SS/FG is perfect for a girl with no tools and no knowlege of bike maintenance going to college in the flat San Joaquin Valley of California. That's why I'm building one for my daughter.
I considered a folder for her, because she could carry it in the trunk of her car, but I'm afraid she'd poke a brake lever into one of her 12" woofers.
I considered a folder for her, because she could carry it in the trunk of her car, but I'm afraid she'd poke a brake lever into one of her 12" woofers.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 05-06-08 at 11:00 AM.
05-06-08, 11:15 AM
#32
crotchety young dude
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All I have to say to you nay-sayers: don't knock it till you try it. You all know I love my geared bike, but some of the most fun I've had on a bike has been on a fixed gear. You don't have to butcher a frame to ride it fixed. Hell, a fixed gear conversion of a mid-level road frame is one of the most C&V things you can do! Winter trainers and all that.
05-06-08, 11:52 AM
#33
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I've posted it once before, but since this is the proper venue . . . . .
The bike that got me back into riding - a '64 Raleigh Gran Sport, way too beaten to ever restore to original, but you don't throw out something this important in your life. Dual brakes because you don't skid stop tubulars:
The bike that got me back into riding - a '64 Raleigh Gran Sport, way too beaten to ever restore to original, but you don't throw out something this important in your life. Dual brakes because you don't skid stop tubulars:
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“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
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Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
05-06-08, 12:04 PM
#34
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Is my schwinn fixie:
Dual brakes because I mainly ride in the hoods and just want the symmetry. Little mudguards because I sometimes ride through sprinkler runoff and they work as well as they need to.
Dual brakes because I mainly ride in the hoods and just want the symmetry. Little mudguards because I sometimes ride through sprinkler runoff and they work as well as they need to.
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"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
05-06-08, 07:09 PM
#35
freed psycho. RUN.
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i really like that bike timj its really clean, really tasteful.
and fixed with tubs! thats very classic.
and fixed with tubs! thats very classic.
05-06-08, 07:16 PM
#36
.
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You can use the front brake to stop you and also to unweight the back wheel. Then you just lock that rear wheel up with your legs. Very effective stopping.
I use two brakes myself but then I'm a big wuss.
05-06-08, 07:25 PM
#37
road curmudgeon, FG rider
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I've posted it once before, but since this is the proper venue . . . . .
The bike that got me back into riding - a '64 Raleigh Gran Sport, way too beaten to ever restore to original, but you don't throw out something this important in your life. Dual brakes because you don't skid stop tubulars:
The bike that got me back into riding - a '64 Raleigh Gran Sport, way too beaten to ever restore to original, but you don't throw out something this important in your life. Dual brakes because you don't skid stop tubulars:
Way to keep it real with tubulars. Now that"s C&V! Clinchers are for modern bikes.
05-06-08, 08:48 PM
#39
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Here's a poor shot of the '74 PA10 I'm building for my daughter.
I upgraded the brakes from Racers to Competitions with Mathauser pads. The pedals, stem and bars are from a '74 PX10. Those tubular wheels are only temporary.
I upgraded the brakes from Racers to Competitions with Mathauser pads. The pedals, stem and bars are from a '74 PX10. Those tubular wheels are only temporary.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 05-06-08 at 08:53 PM.
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05-06-08, 09:00 PM
#41
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-Kurt
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05-06-08, 09:26 PM
#42
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No fins. Standard beveled mounting, but oversized. I don't know how well they work yet. They're old and may be dried out. I refuse to test ride it before it has a seat. It's not easy to find a vintage 25.4 seatpost, but one is on its way.
05-06-08, 09:49 PM
#43
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The lady who ordered it this way, because she hated shifting, just decided she wants gears on it. I'll put them back on, better than before, but the bike's going on the open market....enough.
05-06-08, 10:08 PM
#44
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05-06-08, 10:53 PM
#45
Dolce far niente
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Which is why I like modern 10 speed Campy so much.
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"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
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"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
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05-07-08, 02:54 AM
#47
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just cause everyone else is posting their conversions, heres my 88 Schwinn Circuit with Shimano Sante components.
the first setup with cheapo vuelta wheels.
decided to changed the look, so i took everything off, painted it, added white Deep v wheels.
i dont know where my current picture is, but heres basically with it bare
the first setup with cheapo vuelta wheels.
decided to changed the look, so i took everything off, painted it, added white Deep v wheels.
i dont know where my current picture is, but heres basically with it bare
05-07-08, 05:32 AM
#48
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[/QUOTE]Nice Velocipede conversion you've got there!
05-07-08, 06:09 AM
#49
Don't call me sir
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BBattle, that Caminargent is sick. I've never heard of them before but that is some real craftsmanship.
Last edited by cmdr; 05-07-08 at 06:12 AM. Reason: mis-spelling
05-07-08, 09:33 AM
#50
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Pretty dicey bringing Deep V's into any C&V thread, you know
-Kurt
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