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Old 07-01-08, 03:30 PM   #1
Kommisar89
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Uh-oh - unexpected problems installing crank...

Murphy is apparently hard at work here...I was swapping the crank on the Peugeot UO8 I'm building. The orginal was of course a steel cottered crank. I removed that but saved the bottom bracket cups and obtained a Stronglight 118mm spindle to match the Stronglight 49D crank I had. So today I picked up 22 shiny new 1/4" ball bearings and installed the spindle. That seemed to go fine. Then I mounted the left side crank arm and that went fine as well. Finally I installed the right side arm and rings. That's were the problem cropped up. The inside edge of the inner ring hits the frame. The chain stay is indented for chainring clearance but the indentation is in the area where the teeth are not the inside edge of the ring. For the time being I might be able to make it work by removing the inner ring but that's not a good long term solution. Anyone have any ideas? Does it sound like I did anything wrong?
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Old 07-01-08, 03:38 PM   #2
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Just use a spacer. Here is an old thread that talks about just this problem.
adding a spacer to bottom bracket fixed cup? crank clearance issues
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Old 07-01-08, 03:48 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by gr23932 View Post
Just use a spacer. Here is an old thread that talks about just this problem.
adding a spacer to bottom bracket fixed cup? crank clearance issues
I was thinking of trying that. 'Course that will mean that I now have to get hold of a 23.35mm Stronglight crank puller and remove the fixed cup too. I was trying to avoid that. Oh well. C'est la vie.
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Old 07-01-08, 04:04 PM   #4
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I can't quite picture how a spacer would extend the spindle on the driveside by the couple of mm needed. The OP in that linked thread had the problem of the non-drive-side arm not having enough clearance. Am I missing something?

To me, it sounds like you need a longer spindle.

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Old 07-01-08, 04:31 PM   #5
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I can't quite picture how a spacer would extend the spindle on the driveside by the couple of mm needed. The OP in that linked thread had the problem of the non-drive-side arm not having enough clearance. Am I missing something?

To me, it sounds like you need a longer spindle.

Neal
The spacer would move the entire spindle/crank over 1-2mm to the right. There is plenty of thread on the adjustable cup side to accomodate that.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:23 PM   #6
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If you attach the drive-side crank and leave the left-side BB cup off, you have enough spindle sticking out to clear the chainstay?

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Old 07-01-08, 05:24 PM   #7
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I've done it and it works fine as long as moving the spindle over doesn't cause the left side arm to hit the chainstay and you don't run out of threads on the adjustable cup.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:27 PM   #8
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I've done it and it works fine as long as moving the spindle over doesn't cause the left side arm to hit the chainstay and you don't run out of threads on the adjustable cup.
Should work fine, plenty of room on the left side (crossing fingers).
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Old 07-01-08, 05:30 PM   #9
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Did it on my Cilo.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:39 PM   #10
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If you attach the drive-side crank and leave the left-side BB cup off, you have enough spindle sticking out to clear the chainstay?

Neal
No - and my initial concern was that there wasn't enough spindle sticking out and the crank was bottoming against the fixed cup but that's not what's happening. There's plenty of spindle sticking out but when you tighten the crank arm down the inside chainring hit's the chainstay. A picture would make it clearer but I seem to have misplaced the camera. A 1-2mm spacer would move the entire assembly - fixed cup, spindle, crank arm/chainrigs - to the right enough so that the chainring clears the chainstay. And there is plenty of thread and room on the adjustable cup side to accomodate it.

Since I'm mixing and matching things here to make this work without buying a whole new French thread bottom bracket, I'm not surprised that things don't entirely line up. I had a similar problem on the Panasonic when I swapped the original 28t granny ring for a 26t and the slightly smaller diameter and different design of the ring caused it to hit the chainstay. I think the most difficult thing here is going to be removing the fixed cup.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:44 PM   #11
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I think the most difficult thing here is going to be removing the fixed cup.
If it's anything like how mine was...........Good Luck!
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Old 07-01-08, 08:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Kommisar89 View Post
No - and my initial concern was that there wasn't enough spindle sticking out and the crank was bottoming against the fixed cup but that's not what's happening. There's plenty of spindle sticking out but when you tighten the crank arm down the inside chainring hit's the chainstay. A picture would make it clearer but I seem to have misplaced the camera. A 1-2mm spacer would move the entire assembly - fixed cup, spindle, crank arm/chainrigs - to the right enough so that the chainring clears the chainstay. And there is plenty of thread and room on the adjustable cup side to accomodate it.
Okay, I can picture that now. Thanks. And good luck!

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Old 07-08-08, 10:18 PM   #13
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Well so far so good...sort of. After a $50 order to Velo-Orange, mostly for the 23.35mm Stronglight crank puller, a $10 order from Loose Screws for the spacers and miscellanious, a $5 trip to the local Ace Hardware for the nuts and bolts to make a Sheldon Brown Memorial Big Bolt fixed cup tool and another $10 trip to the damned hardware store for the 15/16 socket that apprently DID NOT come with my socket set I was able to get the crank back off, remove the fixed cup, install a 2mm spacer and put it all back together. Well, not that easy. It took several attempts and a couple of blows from a 2-lb maul but everything seems to be lined up and working nicely. At least as far as I can tell since I didn't have a chain handy to put it together and give it a test ride.

The fixed cup tool worked nicely as the venerable Sheldon said it would. The only slight variation I used was an extra split lock washer between the nut and the flat washer that seemed to help lock everything into position and get the fixed cup unfixed. No cussing required even

So a quick trip to the LBS tomorrow for a chain and I'll be able to button that part up. Then I need to work on the headset. Those of you familiar with French headsets have probably seen those keyed lock washer/spacer thingies with the holes that take the little pin in the upper headset cup (or whatever it's called). Well that broke long ago (you've probably seen that too). So, having no source for a replacement, I'm going to try a regular keyed lock washer and just drill a few holes of my own. We'll see how that comes out (finger's crossed). Then I can at least take the old UO8 out for a test ride. Stay tuned...
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