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-   -   Campagnolo brake lever aero routing help (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/436359-campagnolo-brake-lever-aero-routing-help.html)

fixedpip 07-02-08 09:45 AM

Campagnolo brake lever aero routing help
 
I have some old campy brake levers (1st generation chorus?) which have what seems like an aero routing hole through the body of the brake.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/...de41eac05b.jpg

(Here are the levers with the old style non-areo cable style).

I tried to switch to an aero style routing, but when the lever is attached to the bars, there seems to be no cut-out or space to the route cable/housing passed where brake and bar meet. The brake body is pretty flush to the bar.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/...2b741183_m.jpg - side
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3258/...3cac2ce8_m.jpg - other side

Have tried a number of different points to get the cable to not be squished by the brake body.

Has anyone got any ideas or better yet pictures of where the cable/housing needs to be to use the aero routing option in these levers?

DSchlichting 07-02-08 10:33 AM

I have a set of these. I had to file a slot to clear the cable housings. On mind, there was a kind of a recessed "slot" on the side of the lever body (this "slot" would face inwards) and I filed an opening followingthis recessed area.

nick burns 07-02-08 10:48 AM

Yes, the cable should exit the lever on the inner side of the handlebars. I have a set of 1st gen Athena levers which are essentially the same as yours and I did not find the need to file or cut an opening, the exisiting slot was sufficient.

fixedpip 07-02-08 12:31 PM

There definitely isn't a slot, so I'll look for the recessed part you were taking about DSchlichting.

Nick - So the 'right' spot for the cable to exit is just above the clamp-on band on the inside?

Thanks for your help.

nick burns 07-02-08 12:48 PM

Yup, that's the spot.

fixedpip 02-09-09 04:32 PM

I'm finally getting back to this project and am looking for advice. For a while I couldn't work out where to make the notch that folks had talked about. However when I saw the following photo, it all made sense:

http://www.tinyblueplanet.com/junk/lever2.jpg

On my c-record levers, I have the molding marks for the notches but the material needs to be removed:

http://www.tinyblueplanet.com/junk/lever.jpg

Is there any reason why I shouldn't mod these levers myself to 'aero' route them? Or should I not desecrate such pristine (the hoods are grubby but the lever bodies are pretty much NOS) c-record levers?

Seems like it shouldn't be too much work to file them out. I just want to make sure that I'm not about to do something stupid.

dokydoky 02-09-09 04:48 PM

They're meant for bars with drilled holes near the stem and under where the lever attaches.

purevl 02-09-09 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by fixedpip (Post 8333404)
Is there any reason why I shouldn't mod these levers myself to 'aero' route them?

No. However, there's no reason to file out both sides, as in your picture.

fixedpip 02-09-09 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by dokydoky (Post 8333498)
They're meant for bars with drilled holes near the stem and under where the lever attaches.

Thanks. I was wondering why they had aero routing but lacked the cable notch. That makes a lot of sense.

cyclotoine 02-09-09 08:51 PM

These were delivered with out being filed. They could be used aero or non and if you choose non-aero it would be best not to file them. I have seen the bodies crack as a result of poor filing jobs on these levers. I too filed a set which did not have any slots filed in them.

RobbieTunes 02-10-09 09:15 AM

They cracked there on the Ergo's, too (plastic).

Homebrew01 02-10-09 01:14 PM

The metal is very thin at the notch area. I used to use needle nosed pliers to snap out the metal, then finish with a file or sandpaper.


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