Building A Porteur Bike: Advice?
#26
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#27
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That's exactly what they're for.
But what I was referring to was the stability of the bike while carrying a load. Jim Blackburn tested various load placements, and the most stable configuration for a front load was a front low-rider rack and panniers. It seems to me that a load high above the wheel like the porteur rack would therefore be a less stable configuration.
I'm going to experiment some and see if I can rig a porteur rack which carries panniers low and still has a flat rack for carrying larger loads home from the Farmer's Market (the main purpose of my planned porteur-- actually, planned twin porteurs, his & hers-- will be a grocery-getter for the Farmer's Market.)
Oh, did I mention that the porteurs I'm planning are based on a Canadian-made Raleigh mountain bike, the Portage?
But what I was referring to was the stability of the bike while carrying a load. Jim Blackburn tested various load placements, and the most stable configuration for a front load was a front low-rider rack and panniers. It seems to me that a load high above the wheel like the porteur rack would therefore be a less stable configuration.
I'm going to experiment some and see if I can rig a porteur rack which carries panniers low and still has a flat rack for carrying larger loads home from the Farmer's Market (the main purpose of my planned porteur-- actually, planned twin porteurs, his & hers-- will be a grocery-getter for the Farmer's Market.)
Oh, did I mention that the porteurs I'm planning are based on a Canadian-made Raleigh mountain bike, the Portage?
porteur style portage with removable frt pannier supports
best of both worlds
https://racknroll.blogspot.com
#30
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If you want a custom front rack, contact Ira Ryan. He specializes in porteur racks and he is in Portland. He'll take your fork and build you a rack. I'm not sure of his prices, but they are likely competitive. BTW, that Sports Tourer is very nice!
Note to Neal: That St. Etienne is great! I really love the Wald conversion... took a low-budget basket classed it up and made it more functional!
Note to Neal: That St. Etienne is great! I really love the Wald conversion... took a low-budget basket classed it up and made it more functional!
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#32
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Thanks and thanks! I was just getting back started on this thing, and recently polished up the front normandy hub (see the iso wtb thread for pics).
If you want a custom front rack, contact Ira Ryan. He specializes in porteur racks and he is in Portland. He'll take your fork and build you a rack. I'm not sure of his prices, but they are likely competitive. BTW, that Sports Tourer is very nice!
#33
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Like others, I'm pretty intrigued by that basket. But I'm wondering what, if anything, you've come up with to rust-proof the wires where you cut through the galvanizing. Nail polish? Epoxy?
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Neal
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#36
Who cares, just ride it!
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Not a good photo, but here's my porteur-ish 1981 Apollo Gran Sport:
It has since been changed from a fixed gear to a single speed, and now has a nice set of old Campy Record calipers.
It has since been changed from a fixed gear to a single speed, and now has a nice set of old Campy Record calipers.
#38
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inverse breaking levers put the most breaking power/leverage at your pointer finger, which i guess is the strongest finger. Not sure if it makes a difference in practice, though.
#39
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^^^^^so how are you progressing with this project already? how about an update? although I shouldn't complain, my entry for thye velo-cheapo contest is still totally disassembled, and the bearings have been soaking in pedro's degreaser so long the solution has completely evaporated.
#40
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So after some Christmas gifts (thanks mom, bro, and gf!) I have bars, wheels, tires, and hubs. Still need to get the wheels built, and Neal is working on fenders for me. I finally borrowed to tools to take apart the BB today, but it looks like bad news:
I guess we can all agree the spindle is trashed? Also, why only six bearings?
It seems the general sentiment is to repack fresh bearings without the race and add one to make up for the extra space? The threads on the cups aren't perfect, but i think they'll be fine.
So, as for a new BB: cartridge would be the easiest, but I'd like to stay with the old style to maintain the vintage look. Any suggestions for an affordable replacement?
Also, should I think about changing the spindle length, as I'm removing a chain ring and goinmg single speed?
Oh, and also, and suggestions for Portland wheelbuilders? Someone earlier in the thread said Sellwood...
Thanks for all your help, guys and girls.
I guess we can all agree the spindle is trashed? Also, why only six bearings?
It seems the general sentiment is to repack fresh bearings without the race and add one to make up for the extra space? The threads on the cups aren't perfect, but i think they'll be fine.
So, as for a new BB: cartridge would be the easiest, but I'd like to stay with the old style to maintain the vintage look. Any suggestions for an affordable replacement?
Also, should I think about changing the spindle length, as I'm removing a chain ring and goinmg single speed?
Oh, and also, and suggestions for Portland wheelbuilders? Someone earlier in the thread said Sellwood...
Thanks for all your help, guys and girls.
#41
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Hey 501breeze,
I have a Sports Tourer that I am taking back to original look. Do you plan on keeping the reflector set (both wheels, and the front and rear)?
If you're willing to part I would sure be interested. Also, if you decide to got with a different crank, I would also be interested in the Nervar, as mine also has some damage, but to other parts.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
THEMONDIA (Mark)
I have a Sports Tourer that I am taking back to original look. Do you plan on keeping the reflector set (both wheels, and the front and rear)?
If you're willing to part I would sure be interested. Also, if you decide to got with a different crank, I would also be interested in the Nervar, as mine also has some damage, but to other parts.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
THEMONDIA (Mark)
#42
Unique Vintage Steel
Hard to tell what the condition of the actual bearing surface on the spindle looks like. I'd grab some new bearings w/ retainers (loosescrews.com / LBS / etc), clean and regrease what you've got and see how smooth things go together before giving it up. That is, if the actual bearing interface surfaces look and feel smooth to the touch. Only roughness I can see from the photo are the areas that don't really matter much (as long as they don't crack).
I'm planning to build my own path racer / clubman / etc etc style bike in the near future. Something fun and different, and this thread has certainly helped generate some ideas. Now just got to find the right starting point, err frame.
I'm planning to build my own path racer / clubman / etc etc style bike in the near future. Something fun and different, and this thread has certainly helped generate some ideas. Now just got to find the right starting point, err frame.
#43
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Hey again.
So I'm getting things together and can actually imagine the project being done in the forseeable future. The BB is pretty trashed, however. I posted an add in the ISO thread, but figured I'd ask here too. I've got new bearings, no prob, obviously. I imagine cups are pretty standard as long as they're English thread. My LBS guy told me that the spindle is a special French taper though, so I'd need a Nervar, Stronglight, or TA, to fit my Nervar cranks. Anyone have info on this? Or a replacement I can trade for or buy? It's 117 (mm i suppose?), but a bit shorter one would probably work too, as I've removed a chainring.
Thanks again!
So I'm getting things together and can actually imagine the project being done in the forseeable future. The BB is pretty trashed, however. I posted an add in the ISO thread, but figured I'd ask here too. I've got new bearings, no prob, obviously. I imagine cups are pretty standard as long as they're English thread. My LBS guy told me that the spindle is a special French taper though, so I'd need a Nervar, Stronglight, or TA, to fit my Nervar cranks. Anyone have info on this? Or a replacement I can trade for or buy? It's 117 (mm i suppose?), but a bit shorter one would probably work too, as I've removed a chainring.
Thanks again!