Replacing wheels on my PX 10 - Advice?
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Replacing wheels on my PX 10 - Advice?
I got a flat on the rear tubular tire and am replacing the wheels on my PX 10.
I would either like to lace up the Maillard 500 hubs that are currently on the bike with clincher rims, or replace the entire wheelset. I need to spend <$200 including tires and tubes. Any suggestions / advice on which way to go with this or what to use is appreciated.
I would either like to lace up the Maillard 500 hubs that are currently on the bike with clincher rims, or replace the entire wheelset. I need to spend <$200 including tires and tubes. Any suggestions / advice on which way to go with this or what to use is appreciated.
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You might be able to get these for under $200.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Campagnolo-Hubs-...3286.m14.l1318
I suggest that you try a pair of Tufo tubular tires with their mounting tape and sealant before you give up on tubulars. I've never had a flat with mine.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Campagnolo-Hubs-...3286.m14.l1318
I suggest that you try a pair of Tufo tubular tires with their mounting tape and sealant before you give up on tubulars. I've never had a flat with mine.
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I like the tubular tires, but not for Chicago streets. I live in kind of a crummy neighborhood and there is often broken glass, etc. in the streets and the cost of replacing a tube each time it goes flat isn't worth it to me.
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I'd keep your tubular wheels for originality and put them on a hook somewhere, then build a set of wheels you can ride on daily. I'm building a set of wheels for tougher roads (for my Raleigh Professional) with Normandy Luxe Competition hubs, DB stainless spokes, and Sun CR-18 rims. They should build into tough wheels. You should be able to build a similar combination for $110-150 if you build them yourself. Cheaper if you can find a nice set of hubs locally. Sun CR-18 rims are about $25-28 apiece for the stock silver color. Spokes vary depending on brand and whether they are DB or not.
Good luck
Karl
Good luck
Karl
#5
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If you can't roll your own, and have a budget, this joint was mentioned in a similar thread recently:
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...iewCat&catId=1
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...iewCat&catId=1
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+1 Keep the original rims in case/when you want to return the bike to stock, and then buy some replacements of your choice.
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If you can't roll your own, and have a budget, this joint was mentioned in a similar thread recently:
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...iewCat&catId=1
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...iewCat&catId=1
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This set looks OK: https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=49
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I'm not sure anything out the door for $200 is appropriate but sometimes you need to do what you need to do.
This set looks OK: https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=49
This set looks OK: https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=49
Like I said, I don't think they have anything appropriate for his PX10.
He should be able to get a decent set of used wheels with a freewheel hub for no more than $200 shipped. I've never even paid that much. My LBS will build a set of wheels on my hubs with DT Competition spokes and Sun CR-18 rims for $168. In fact, they just did. His Maillard 500 hubs are a bit of a downgrade from the originals, but they're not bad, and the ones I've seen were pretty.
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Considering he wants something more durable for rough Chicago roads cassette hubs would be more suitable.
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
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Considering he wants something more durable for rough Chicago roads cassette hubs would be more suitable.
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
I might be willing to do that to some old POS, but not a PX10.
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Karl
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I'd keep your tubular wheels for originality and put them on a hook somewhere, then build a set of wheels you can ride on daily. I'm building a set of wheels for tougher roads (for my Raleigh Professional) with Normandy Luxe Competition hubs, DB stainless spokes, and Sun CR-18 rims. They should build into tough wheels. You should be able to build a similar combination for $110-150 if you build them yourself. Cheaper if you can find a nice set of hubs locally. Sun CR-18 rims are about $25-28 apiece for the stock silver color. Spokes vary depending on brand and whether they are DB or not.
Good luck
Karl
Good luck
Karl
Obviously 32 or 36 spoke 3x designs will have the right look.
If you're going this route, get a hub with English freewheel threading - they are much more common and new or like-new freewheels are infinitely more common, and still available in a range of sizes. I think Harris Cycles even has some new 5-speeds freewheels on their webpage.
Any set of good 700C clincher wheels with 120 mm OLD should fit right on, if you find some say on Ebay.
Road Fan
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Considering he wants something more durable for rough Chicago roads cassette hubs would be more suitable.
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
Its easy enough to remove that thick spacer from the non-gear side and either leave it out or replace it with a very thin one. Either way will narrow up the spacing, redish the wheel a touch and your done.
Jim
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I'm still looking at it from a $200 perspective. Wheels, tires, tubes, skewers and a freewheel for $200 might be a little tough if the OP takes the vintage path vesus the modern path.
Jim
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Thanks for the replies. The hubs are Maillard 700, not 500, I don't know why I wrote that. Also, it may be worth mentioning that the front hub is good. My rear wheel doesn't have any play when I try to move the rim side to side. However, when riding I notice that something is making a noise as the wheel rotates, it sounds like it is coming from the rear. Also, the freewheel has a slight vertical movemement as the wheel rotates, in all 5 gears. I don't know whether this is an issue with the hub or axle. Prior to building wheels on the exisiting hubs, I will at least have to have someone look at the the rear hub for me.
Dirtdrop, which Tufo Tires do you use? I see that I can get a set of the Pro S22, which is the bottom of the line, for $35 locally. Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't both the Campy NR & SR hubs are 126mm? Would spacing be an issue? Would the Campy NR hubs work with my existing freewheel, if laced up with new rims?
I found the Sun CR-18 rims for $30 each and DT Competition Double Butted Spokes for $18 per bag of 20 at a local shop. That is $132 + tax (figure 10% in crook county) $145. Additionally, I would have to check on the cost of the build.
When purchasing spokes, which gauge and length would be appropriate?
Thanks
Dirtdrop, which Tufo Tires do you use? I see that I can get a set of the Pro S22, which is the bottom of the line, for $35 locally. Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't both the Campy NR & SR hubs are 126mm? Would spacing be an issue? Would the Campy NR hubs work with my existing freewheel, if laced up with new rims?
I found the Sun CR-18 rims for $30 each and DT Competition Double Butted Spokes for $18 per bag of 20 at a local shop. That is $132 + tax (figure 10% in crook county) $145. Additionally, I would have to check on the cost of the build.
When purchasing spokes, which gauge and length would be appropriate?
Thanks
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It doesn't look like these wheels are going to sell for under $200 as they are already over $150 with a day left in the auction. I'm putting my maximum bid at $175, if you are willing to pay $200, they are all yours.
Which Tufo tires are you running and have you tried the Pro S22? They are described as a "tire with thicker tread, suitable for training. Very good mileage. Basic model of this line." If these are as durable as you claim, I'd be willing to try them out as this will require less effort than a complete build up.
Will the Campy Nuovo Record hubs fit without any modification to the frame?
Thanks again for your help.
Which Tufo tires are you running and have you tried the Pro S22? They are described as a "tire with thicker tread, suitable for training. Very good mileage. Basic model of this line." If these are as durable as you claim, I'd be willing to try them out as this will require less effort than a complete build up.
Will the Campy Nuovo Record hubs fit without any modification to the frame?
Thanks again for your help.
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It doesn't look like these wheels are going to sell for under $200 as they are already over $150 with a day left in the auction. I'm putting my maximum bid at $175, if you are willing to pay $200, they are all yours.
Which Tufo tires are you running and have you tried the Pro S22? They are described as a "tire with thicker tread, suitable for training. Very good mileage. Basic model of this line." If these are as durable as you claim, I'd be willing to try them out as this will require less effort than a complete build up.
Will the Campy Nuovo Record hubs fit without any modification to the frame?
Thanks again for your help.
Which Tufo tires are you running and have you tried the Pro S22? They are described as a "tire with thicker tread, suitable for training. Very good mileage. Basic model of this line." If these are as durable as you claim, I'd be willing to try them out as this will require less effort than a complete build up.
Will the Campy Nuovo Record hubs fit without any modification to the frame?
Thanks again for your help.
My tires are diamond D28 cyclocross.
The hubs will fit your frame, but they are not Record.
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Dirtdrop, which Tufo Tires do you use? I see that I can get a set of the Pro S22, which is the bottom of the line, for $35 locally. Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't both the Campy NR & SR hubs are 126mm? Would spacing be an issue? Would the Campy NR hubs work with my existing freewheel, if laced up with new rims?
Thanks
Road Fan
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Those are Campy Nuovo Tipo hubs, I think. Very good quality if a cut (a thin cut) below the Nuovo and Super Record. The Concave rims are sometimes hard to keep in true, but that wheelset will be a good starting point. The seller doesn't seem to say if the wheels are 5-speed (120 mm) or 6/7 speed (126 mm).
If you get them, repack the bearings before you ride them.
For that matter, do that to you Maillard hubs, too. It will make them feel much better, and you will be able to get a proper bearing adjustment, eliminating the side-side play in the rear wheel.
Road Fan
If you get them, repack the bearings before you ride them.
For that matter, do that to you Maillard hubs, too. It will make them feel much better, and you will be able to get a proper bearing adjustment, eliminating the side-side play in the rear wheel.
Road Fan
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Those are Campy Nuovo Tipo hubs, I think. Very good quality if a cut (a thin cut) below the Nuovo and Super Record. The Concave rims are sometimes hard to keep in true, but that wheelset will be a good starting point. The seller doesn't seem to say if the wheels are 5-speed (120 mm) or 6/7 speed (126 mm).
If you get them, repack the bearings before you ride them.
For that matter, do that to you Maillard hubs, too. It will make them feel much better, and you will be able to get a proper bearing adjustment, eliminating the side-side play in the rear wheel.
Road Fan
If you get them, repack the bearings before you ride them.
For that matter, do that to you Maillard hubs, too. It will make them feel much better, and you will be able to get a proper bearing adjustment, eliminating the side-side play in the rear wheel.
Road Fan
The play in the rear wheel is not side to side, it is vertical. looking directly at the freewheel as the wheel spins, it moves up and down. Prior to doing a build on the Maillard hubs I will have them taken apart and inspected, then repacked.
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The wheels are 5 speed, sell has additional photos on Flicr. https://www.flickr.com/photos/9233302...7603251931953/
The play in the rear wheel is not side to side, it is vertical. looking directly at the freewheel as the wheel spins, it moves up and down. Prior to doing a build on the Maillard hubs I will have them taken apart and inspected, then repacked.
The play in the rear wheel is not side to side, it is vertical. looking directly at the freewheel as the wheel spins, it moves up and down. Prior to doing a build on the Maillard hubs I will have them taken apart and inspected, then repacked.
Freewheels have an inherent wobble to them which is normal.