Shogun serial # database?
#151
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Some are vary well made frames, 1500, 2000, and 2500 are top of the line. 1500 are early top of the line and 2000 and 2500 are latter. 600 is still a good CroMo frame with double butted tubes, all you need to do is change what you don't like. Do you have 700 or 27 wheels. 700c frames make life easier to update.
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The wheels are 700's. The bike rides well and feels good but the frame is small. I am trying to work around that. I, replaced the original seat post so I, could raise it 2". I am now looking for a goose neck to raise the handlebars. All the bearings are tight. guess mileage would be 300 or less. If I, can get the bike to fit me am considering ceramic bearings. I, am 5'10" and weigh 215. will this bike carry my weight? I,found a pair of conti 3000, $2 ea. to put on. I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades for the bike. Also, any ideas on getting this bike frame to fit me better would be appreciated. A friend oiled my bearings with a home made non toxic oil. (prob veg oil concoction) I question whether I should ride the bike or not. Shouldn't the bearings be greased? Thanks for any responses.
Last edited by kiddaustin; 09-19-11 at 05:59 PM.
#153
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Vegetable oil doesn't sound good to me. You really need the appropriate grease on the bearings. If anything, I would imagine that vegetable oil will actually thin the existing grease and literally clean it off, leaving you with less lubrication. Not to mention the fact that vegetable oil is organic and will begin to simply decompose eventually. Stay off until you get it properly lubed or you will do serious damage to the bike.
#154
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My Shogun 500
I have one different than most I have heard of here in BF or anywhere else for that matter.
I think this guy had the same bike.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/ret...gun-33248.html
Shogun 500
Serial No.: S5W6059
Frame: Lugged Double Butted 900 Tange Cr-Mo (relatively light)
Cranks: 170 Deore Biopace Triple
Front Hub: 40 hole Suzue Sealed-Tech
Front Rim: Mavic MA2 27 x 1 1/4 (surely a replacement)
Rear Hub: 40 hole Suze Sealed-Tech 6 speed freewheel
Rear Hub: Araya 27 x 1 1/4
Brakes (Front and Rear): BR-AT50 Shimano Cantilever (made 86-93?)
RD: Shimano "Light Action" (RD-L525?)
FD: ?? No distinguishing marks - bottom pull
Shifters: Suntour
Handlebars: Alps
Seat: Brooks
Pedals: Suntour Superbe
2 sets of water bottle braze-ons
Double eyelets front and rear and midway on fork (yes!)
Forged dropouts (I think they are still pretty dirty)
Metallic dark green paint w/ silver metallic head tube paint
Nice and light
Found in the back of a garage with so much dust on it I couldn't read the top tube stickers. I think it was hardly ridden. Dry rot tires show very little wear. I have wiped it down just enough to think I have something special here. Some scratches and surface rust but nothing major. Bearings tight. Currently soaking seat in glove oil. Next is full strip down, cleaning lube, going 7 speed, much longer stem, new seat post (old one split at top) new tires, NOS chrome fenders. Eventually I would like to switch to new handlebars with barends. Can't wait to get my first road bike on the road!
Have a set of pics on my FB page.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...536539.1521532
I would love if someone could tell me what year the bike is.
I think this guy had the same bike.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/ret...gun-33248.html
Shogun 500
Serial No.: S5W6059
Frame: Lugged Double Butted 900 Tange Cr-Mo (relatively light)
Cranks: 170 Deore Biopace Triple
Front Hub: 40 hole Suzue Sealed-Tech
Front Rim: Mavic MA2 27 x 1 1/4 (surely a replacement)
Rear Hub: 40 hole Suze Sealed-Tech 6 speed freewheel
Rear Hub: Araya 27 x 1 1/4
Brakes (Front and Rear): BR-AT50 Shimano Cantilever (made 86-93?)
RD: Shimano "Light Action" (RD-L525?)
FD: ?? No distinguishing marks - bottom pull
Shifters: Suntour
Handlebars: Alps
Seat: Brooks
Pedals: Suntour Superbe
2 sets of water bottle braze-ons
Double eyelets front and rear and midway on fork (yes!)
Forged dropouts (I think they are still pretty dirty)
Metallic dark green paint w/ silver metallic head tube paint
Nice and light
Found in the back of a garage with so much dust on it I couldn't read the top tube stickers. I think it was hardly ridden. Dry rot tires show very little wear. I have wiped it down just enough to think I have something special here. Some scratches and surface rust but nothing major. Bearings tight. Currently soaking seat in glove oil. Next is full strip down, cleaning lube, going 7 speed, much longer stem, new seat post (old one split at top) new tires, NOS chrome fenders. Eventually I would like to switch to new handlebars with barends. Can't wait to get my first road bike on the road!
Have a set of pics on my FB page.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...536539.1521532
I would love if someone could tell me what year the bike is.
#155
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After reading this (https://sheldonbrown.com/japan.html) and considering the canti brakes are said to have first been produced 86. I am guessing my 500 is an 86.
#156
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Great stuff. Wish I could tell you what you've really got. It looks older than my Trail Breaker 2 but my machine had the mavic wheels on it and I wondered if yours also had the ellipsoidal chain rings. I didn't see the Bio Pace sticker on the crank but in the photo it looks funny to me like it might be non round. Mine has this stock on it. Best of luck with it!
#157
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Shogun Mixte rescues
Rescued a pair of identical Shogun Mixte Sport bikes from the metal recycle bins at my local waste drop-off site yesterday. Identical in every respect: size, colors, components, everything. Frames are in decent shape, wheels aren't too bad, but there is a lot of work to do. Tires and hoods rotted, chain and cassette rusted, can't shift, etc.... I hope to donate these bikes to the good folks at Portland's Community Cycling Center so they can refurbish and place them with someone who couldn't otherwise afford a bike, but before I do I wanted to find out if I would be wasting their time with junk. Any info I can give them would help. (And in the first photo, the apparently smaller front wheel is not an optical illusion: as a previous poster mentioned, these bikes have 24" fronts with 27" rears.)
Serial Numbers M6-L2240 and M6-L2217
Shogun Bikes 001 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 004 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 006 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 007 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 005 by gardnertoo, on Flickr (Stupid autofocus!!)
Serial Numbers M6-L2240 and M6-L2217
Shogun Bikes 001 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 004 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 006 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 007 by gardnertoo, on Flickr
Shogun Bikes 005 by gardnertoo, on Flickr (Stupid autofocus!!)
#158
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Hi, picked up a Shogun 300 with Tange 900 Double Butted Cr-Mo, s/n Y5K5011. Bikes in nice condition and I was hoping to build it into a 650B randonneur for my wife. S/N is Y5K5011 and it has cheap components with 27" wheels (why I bought it). Any idea when it was made? Thanks, Jim
#159
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November 1985 frame mfg. date. PGMikeT
#160
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Another trip to the Cape and another Shogun.
This one is a 300 Cro-Mo Double Butted bike for my wife. The SN is S535045. This leads me to believe that the frame was produced in 1985. The SN is missing the second alpha character that is on my 600, which denotes the month of manufacture. In addition to this difference, the first alpha character varies, in this case: M vs S but I've seen Y, etc. Any ideas on the alpha numeric structure of the SNs?
The blue one on the left is my 83 Shogun 600 and the new one is on the right.
I am back in Colorado so here they are in suspended animation until our next visit:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
This one is a 300 Cro-Mo Double Butted bike for my wife. The SN is S535045. This leads me to believe that the frame was produced in 1985. The SN is missing the second alpha character that is on my 600, which denotes the month of manufacture. In addition to this difference, the first alpha character varies, in this case: M vs S but I've seen Y, etc. Any ideas on the alpha numeric structure of the SNs?
The blue one on the left is my 83 Shogun 600 and the new one is on the right.
I am back in Colorado so here they are in suspended animation until our next visit:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#161
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I've got problems finding information about the production date and the frame of my Shogun. I picked it up about three months ago and want to rebuild it this summer.
The brakes are Shimano Turney, the levers have no specific name, only the old Shimano logo. The RD and FD, cranks, shifters, freewheel and hubs are 600 Arabesque. Rear dropouts are by Shimano, the front dropouts have 'Tange-TF-R' engraved.
The SN is Y2DC126
Unfortunately, there are no decals on the fork/frame. Does anybody have an idea about the tubes used?
Sorry for the image quality, my DSLR is broken so I had to use the IXUS.
The brakes are Shimano Turney, the levers have no specific name, only the old Shimano logo. The RD and FD, cranks, shifters, freewheel and hubs are 600 Arabesque. Rear dropouts are by Shimano, the front dropouts have 'Tange-TF-R' engraved.
The SN is Y2DC126
Unfortunately, there are no decals on the fork/frame. Does anybody have an idea about the tubes used?
Sorry for the image quality, my DSLR is broken so I had to use the IXUS.
Last edited by 2IRS; 08-06-12 at 05:40 PM.
#162
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April 1982 frame date. The first letter could have something to do with the frame maker. The first number is the year (1982), the next letter is the month (4=April) PGMikeT
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Thanks Mike, that should fit. I found out that some components where built in 1981. Now I'm really interested in the steel used. Any clues on how to get this info?
#164
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The lugwork on your bike is identical to mine and is most likely Tange double butted CrMo. Which particular name/# is hard to say.
#165
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I just purchased an alloy Shogun Ninja with Shimano 600 components, I get the Serial number posted in the morning.
--Duane
Shogun Ninja, Bridgestone MB-5, Motiv Stonehill
--Duane
Shogun Ninja, Bridgestone MB-5, Motiv Stonehill
#168
Death fork? Naaaah!!
LS783031. Tange Infinity tubing.
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#169
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My hot rod Samurai after finally finishing changing over to a CF fork - bottom of the BB #'s are S8P, seat tube #'s AS717509.
Last edited by metabike; 01-02-13 at 05:42 PM. Reason: "doh!" moment confusing seatpost with seat tube!
#170
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#171
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#172
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Shogun 600 info and upgrade
I have a Shogun 600. It fits me perfect and I'm very happy with it. However I would like to know a little bit about it and perhaps make a few upgrades. I've made some small ones already, but I'd like to keep her for the longhall. Serial number is: M3K85703. Tange 900 steel, double butted tubing, shimano arrow comps. Would it be possible to put a carbon fiber fork on this thing without having to change the wheels out? I'm not even sure what the headtube ID is. If someone does, it would save me from pulling the current fork out to check. BTW what was this bike made for? Would anyone in their right mind consider racing this fully upgraded? Just curious.
Thanks
Thanks
#173
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Hello Micah, welcome to the forums. Nice looking Shogun. It looks like a '84ish model to me juding from your stating it has Golden Arrow components.
It also looks huge! It has a 1" steerer and while you could put a carbon fork it, I don't really know why you would nor if you could find one long enough. This looks like a upper recreation or 'Sport' bike for people who wanted a fast comfortable ride but weren't likely to race. You could upgrade it and race it but depending on the upgrades you have in mind you might be better off buying a newer bike.
Judging from the seat position I would say this may actually be too big for you.
It also looks huge! It has a 1" steerer and while you could put a carbon fork it, I don't really know why you would nor if you could find one long enough. This looks like a upper recreation or 'Sport' bike for people who wanted a fast comfortable ride but weren't likely to race. You could upgrade it and race it but depending on the upgrades you have in mind you might be better off buying a newer bike.
Judging from the seat position I would say this may actually be too big for you.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#174
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Micaiah, your 600 is a a 1984 model manufactured in November 1983. It is would have been a very low midrange model. I always find it amusing that Shogun spec'd Shimano 105 on a 600 model. The first generation 105 (.k.a. Golden Arrow) is a good midrange group of the era, but Shogun made some concessions. Only the three main tubes are CrMo and then they are the less expensive seamed tubes. The stays and forks are high tensile steel. The other notable concession, is the 27" wheelset, at a time when 700C was coming into vogue.
The fork definitely uses a 1" headset. Carbon forks with 1" steerer are plentiful and relatively inexpensive however you will have to cut the steerer and probably thread it. The other concern is that most carbon forks are made for 700C wheels. Consequentely, to use the OEM 27" wheelset, the brake pads have to raised about 4mm. It could be slightly more or less depending on the manufacturers fork dimensions (i.e. distance from droputs to brake mounting hole). Make sure you have the necessary adjustment range in the caliper slots.
As noted by BG, if that is the correct saddle height, the frame is far too big, unless you have a really long upper body, relative to your legs.
The fork definitely uses a 1" headset. Carbon forks with 1" steerer are plentiful and relatively inexpensive however you will have to cut the steerer and probably thread it. The other concern is that most carbon forks are made for 700C wheels. Consequentely, to use the OEM 27" wheelset, the brake pads have to raised about 4mm. It could be slightly more or less depending on the manufacturers fork dimensions (i.e. distance from droputs to brake mounting hole). Make sure you have the necessary adjustment range in the caliper slots.
As noted by BG, if that is the correct saddle height, the frame is far too big, unless you have a really long upper body, relative to your legs.
#175
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Thanks for the info!
Its great to finally have some answers. As far as the saddle height, when this picture was taken I hadn't ridden it yet. I've since raised the seat substantially. I'm about 6'3 - this frame is the best fit out of any bike I've tried, bar none. This is unfortunate though. I had a Sekai 4000 given to me that was way too small! This was a top of the line racing cycle from the 70's as I understand it and it was super light! The guy that gave it to me found it on the side of the road by a bunch of garbage! Wow. I would have kept that but the Shogun actually fit me much better. Even though it is midrange/low end it is pretty light weight and it rides like a dream. Thanks again!