I spaced my 7spd wheel to 130mm...
07-30-08, 12:29 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 378
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I spaced my 7spd wheel to 130mm...
and kept the 7 spd freehub and cassette, and I like it! I actually ended up with 129mm between the nut faces as I didn't have any more spacers on hand, but it's still wider than 126. The axle is plenty long enough to go out to 130, just as Sheldon Brown said it would. The drive side moved over and the rim got dished back towards the non-drive side by 1.5mm (or is it 3mm?) - so the wheel is a wee bit stronger now. The dish doesn't look so drastic now. The chainline is better to, as I tend to use the larger cogs more than the smaller ones. 
I can see why old 7spd mountain bike hubs were setup this way.
I can see why old 7spd mountain bike hubs were setup this way.
07-30-08, 05:21 PM
#2
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,409 Times
in
909 Posts
less twist, more torque? I tend to go the other way, have never really given it much thought the way you did it. It is very interesting, good job.
07-30-08, 06:06 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,954
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 413 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 109 Times
in
78 Posts
I get the freewheel/cassette as close as possible to the chainstay, even if it means removing spacer, then I add all the spacer to the non driveside. Using that technique to respace allows for less dish.
Its also a technique you can use if your not respacing. Remove as many spacers from the driveside as possible and move them to the non-drive side and redish.
Its also a technique you can use if your not respacing. Remove as many spacers from the driveside as possible and move them to the non-drive side and redish.
