Liquid Wrench
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Liquid Wrench
Its the greatest!
I just got my stem unstuck and removed, and popped a stuck cotter out too
Sure its just another penetrating oil, but I'm a new devotee
I just got my stem unstuck and removed, and popped a stuck cotter out too
Sure its just another penetrating oil, but I'm a new devotee
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Sheldon says ammonia works wonders on stuck aluminum seat posts.
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I was swapping out some pedals that had never been removed. Apparently the shop that assembled the bike didn't bother to grease the threads. One side was seized. I put a wrench on it, then beat the wrench with a hammer. Tried a long wrench and beat that too. Then I sprayed on a bit of PB blaster, then tapped it lightly and the pedal came right off.
I don't usually need it for a bike components, but I routinely use PB blaster on the nuts or bolts on cars where they might be rusted on.
I don't usually need it for a bike components, but I routinely use PB blaster on the nuts or bolts on cars where they might be rusted on.
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<<<<<<<<<Devoted follower of PB Blaster.
I discovered it a few years ago doing vintage European off road motorcycle restorations.
Ok, who has the Kool-Aide?
I discovered it a few years ago doing vintage European off road motorcycle restorations.
Ok, who has the Kool-Aide?
Last edited by txvintage; 08-15-08 at 06:47 AM.
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This stuff is suppose to be better than the PB blaster :
https://www.kanolabs.com/
https://www.kanolabs.com/
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From my days of industrial machinery maintenance Kroil (kanolaobs) is the best stuff - really amazing. I don't have a local source for Kroil, so I've found PB Blaster works great too.
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I'll have to find some of this PBlaster next time i've got stuck parts
I got back from work after letting the liquid wrench work on the left side cotter all last night and today and 2 good shots with the hammer and it fell right out.
I'm psyched, the only things left to remove from the frame are the BB and the Forks and those parts are all loose and ready to come off. I anticipate having the frame at the auto body shop by tomorrow or monday at the latest.
I got back from work after letting the liquid wrench work on the left side cotter all last night and today and 2 good shots with the hammer and it fell right out.
I'm psyched, the only things left to remove from the frame are the BB and the Forks and those parts are all loose and ready to come off. I anticipate having the frame at the auto body shop by tomorrow or monday at the latest.
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That's what I've read. PB Blaster is readily available, but I think you'd have to order the Kroil stuff.
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If you click on the link in my earlier past link, it goes to the maker of Kroil. You can get a free sample of any product they sell and, I believe, order on-line. I've requested a free sample, hope it works on my bike's stem. Got a stuck seat post too, but Sheldon Brown says penetrating lubricants don't work well on aluminum and suggests ammonia. If it words, sure is a cheap solution. Stems, on the other hand, are usually a steel on steel problem so penetrating stuff probably works better.
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#16
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Another vote for Kroil (Kano Labs).
A co-worker of mine had some and he let me use it for some ultra-stuck bolts. I couldn't find it locally either Tom but had to get some, so I ordered it from Kano.
Yep, PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is superior.
A co-worker of mine had some and he let me use it for some ultra-stuck bolts. I couldn't find it locally either Tom but had to get some, so I ordered it from Kano.
Yep, PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is superior.
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Ive got a kink in my chain and I've tried wd-40 and white grease but its still stiff at one link. Would it be worth trying liquid wrench or pb blaster?
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Have you removed the chain recently with a chain tool. Sometimes the link that you removed and then "put back on" remains a bit stiff. Try bending it side to side to "free" it up. If that doesn't work, try using a small screw driver to pry (very carefully and gingerly" the link a bit free so it can bend smoothly.
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kroil > all.
seriously - my coworker works on antique hit and miss engines and tractors and has un-stuck engines that have been sitting outside w/ the head off for years. We also use it at work on rusty exhaust nuts.
seriously - my coworker works on antique hit and miss engines and tractors and has un-stuck engines that have been sitting outside w/ the head off for years. We also use it at work on rusty exhaust nuts.
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Have you removed the chain recently with a chain tool. Sometimes the link that you removed and then "put back on" remains a bit stiff. Try bending it side to side to "free" it up. If that doesn't work, try using a small screw driver to pry (very carefully and gingerly" the link a bit free so it can bend smoothly.
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Kroil and PB Blaster user here Haven't had any ugly enough to try the ammonia trick on...yet
Aaron
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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Just a word of caution, every time I've used ammonia to try to free up a seized aluminum part it has completely destroyed the finish to a most likely unrepairable state (I haven't tried polishing it out though). So, I wouldn't risk it on parts you plan on reusing.