27" steel wheels now, 700c aluminum soon
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27" steel wheels now, 700c aluminum soon
I picked up a Raleigh Record yesterday and every spoke was loose. I couldn't resist tightening them up, eyeing the brake pads to see how far out of true they were, and taking it around the block. The good news is, it rides great. The bad news, it barely stops. I've read this is a problem to begin with on steel wheels (and it was sort of...raining...still much much worse than my new mtn bike). So I went in search of new 27" wheels, and you all know how that ended. I'd really like to just get the wheels trued by my lbs ($30 iirc) and ride them a few weeks/months while I figure out what I want to do with the bike. So, now for my questions:
Will any new caliper brakes adjust to work with a 27" now and a 700c later? I'm looking at these because they say long reach and I understand I might need that for the 700. If anyone has specific brakes to recommend I'd love to hear about them.
As far as new wheels, I'd like something less than $300 for the whole set, that would handle a touring type tire if I wanted (I believe that's more a question of what the frame will take and if I want fenders) as well as take the 5 speed cassette on there now and a 9-10 speed later. I'm currently looking at these because of the price, not sure they'll work with my 5 speed. If such a beast exists, great. Otherwise, I'd be ok with changing the cassette on here now to accommodate a better wheel IF I can use the downtube friction shifters and current rd. I've read that should be no problem.
I'd be happy to hear about what others are doing, preferrably with specific products and prices if available.
Pics to follow tonight if I don't end up at the lbs too late.
Will any new caliper brakes adjust to work with a 27" now and a 700c later? I'm looking at these because they say long reach and I understand I might need that for the 700. If anyone has specific brakes to recommend I'd love to hear about them.
As far as new wheels, I'd like something less than $300 for the whole set, that would handle a touring type tire if I wanted (I believe that's more a question of what the frame will take and if I want fenders) as well as take the 5 speed cassette on there now and a 9-10 speed later. I'm currently looking at these because of the price, not sure they'll work with my 5 speed. If such a beast exists, great. Otherwise, I'd be ok with changing the cassette on here now to accommodate a better wheel IF I can use the downtube friction shifters and current rd. I've read that should be no problem.
I'd be happy to hear about what others are doing, preferrably with specific products and prices if available.
Pics to follow tonight if I don't end up at the lbs too late.
Last edited by gotcha640; 08-18-08 at 06:57 AM.
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Have you considered changing to 27" aluminum wheels?
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Steel wheels should stop prefectly well when dry. The problem may reside with the brake pads which might need replacement regardless of rim material. Sticking brake cables or cable housings with too much movement at the ends can also be a problem with braking on maintenance deferred bikes.
Decent inexpensive ready-made 27" wheels with aluminum rims are still being made. This summer a whole lot of older bikes got put back on the road leading to temporary shortages for 27" wheels and especially 27" tires. See if a bike shop can order some for you.
Decent inexpensive ready-made 27" wheels with aluminum rims are still being made. This summer a whole lot of older bikes got put back on the road leading to temporary shortages for 27" wheels and especially 27" tires. See if a bike shop can order some for you.
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The Tektro brakes will work with 700c wheels (I just used them on a Schwinn Le Tour Luxe). Check the Harris website to see if there will be any problems.
You can stick with 27" Aluminium wheels if you like. You can still get them. The only issue seems to be the lack of variety for tyres. The reason I shifted to 700c on my bike is that it is my winter commuter, and studded tyres are not available in 27".
The other advantage of running 700c, is that you'll be able to run a thicker tyre, as the clearance will increase by 4mm.
If you want to keep your steel wheels, try changing the brake pads to Kool Stop Mtn pads. That will help a lot, though braking in the wet will still not be great. I ride a BSA 'sports' model with steel wheels all the time, even in wet conditions (not a downpour), and braking is not bad (though I tend to watch ahead and scrub speed, rather than jamming the brakes).
You can stick with 27" Aluminium wheels if you like. You can still get them. The only issue seems to be the lack of variety for tyres. The reason I shifted to 700c on my bike is that it is my winter commuter, and studded tyres are not available in 27".
The other advantage of running 700c, is that you'll be able to run a thicker tyre, as the clearance will increase by 4mm.
If you want to keep your steel wheels, try changing the brake pads to Kool Stop Mtn pads. That will help a lot, though braking in the wet will still not be great. I ride a BSA 'sports' model with steel wheels all the time, even in wet conditions (not a downpour), and braking is not bad (though I tend to watch ahead and scrub speed, rather than jamming the brakes).
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Thanks for all the replies, especially the confirmation of the brake choice and pad suggestion. I also like the home made drops on Harris.
My reason for wanting aluminum 700s is that
since I'm in Houston and it's hurricane season, I'd like the improved wet stopping of aluminum rims (unless I've been misinformed) and
I'd like 700 so they'll be compatible with newer bikes (my wife is about to buy a new road bike, and I'd really like to allow her to just swap wheels and keep going if she gets a flat/tacos a wheel) and
so I can run fenders (see the hurricane note).
I have a 9 speed cassette at home that I'll try out tonight to check spacing on my current hub. I realize the current chain will probably not work.
My reason for wanting aluminum 700s is that
since I'm in Houston and it's hurricane season, I'd like the improved wet stopping of aluminum rims (unless I've been misinformed) and
I'd like 700 so they'll be compatible with newer bikes (my wife is about to buy a new road bike, and I'd really like to allow her to just swap wheels and keep going if she gets a flat/tacos a wheel) and
so I can run fenders (see the hurricane note).
I have a 9 speed cassette at home that I'll try out tonight to check spacing on my current hub. I realize the current chain will probably not work.
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If you can lower your brake pads 4mm from their 27" wheel position, you can easily accommodate 700C wheels. I do not agree that "steel wheels should stop perfectly well when dry," because the coefficient of friction between brake pad material and aluminum is inherently superior, particularly when wet, but even when dry. For your own safety, insist on salmon KoolStop brake pads, aluminum rims, and low-compression cable housings.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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Thanks for all the replies, especially the confirmation of the brake choice and pad suggestion. I also like the home made drops on Harris.
My reason for wanting aluminum 700s is that
since I'm in Houston and it's hurricane season, I'd like the improved wet stopping of aluminum rims (unless I've been misinformed) and
I'd like 700 so they'll be compatible with newer bikes (my wife is about to buy a new road bike, and I'd really like to allow her to just swap wheels and keep going if she gets a flat/tacos a wheel) and
so I can run fenders (see the hurricane note).
I have a 9 speed cassette at home that I'll try out tonight to check spacing on my current hub. I realize the current chain will probably not work.
My reason for wanting aluminum 700s is that
since I'm in Houston and it's hurricane season, I'd like the improved wet stopping of aluminum rims (unless I've been misinformed) and
I'd like 700 so they'll be compatible with newer bikes (my wife is about to buy a new road bike, and I'd really like to allow her to just swap wheels and keep going if she gets a flat/tacos a wheel) and
so I can run fenders (see the hurricane note).
I have a 9 speed cassette at home that I'll try out tonight to check spacing on my current hub. I realize the current chain will probably not work.
Edit:here's the link
https://www.amazon.com/SBS-Alloy-Silv...9069595&sr=1-5
if you can't find 'em, I just ordered a set of alum 27" from Niagara Cycling ...Amazon, cheap at 58$ for front and rear set... let you know how they work out, when I get them...
Last edited by mrlassiter; 08-18-08 at 08:28 AM.
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Steel wheels should stop prefectly well when dry. The problem may reside with the brake pads which might need replacement regardless of rim material. Sticking brake cables or cable housings with too much movement at the ends can also be a problem with braking on maintenance deferred bike
Well I ruined 3 rims and instead of replacing them I decided to try and use the old steel rims I had lying around. Now wiser and with more experience I purchased the correct pads for steel rims, and better quality housing and adjusted my brakes more carefully and methodically. They stop just fine. I can lock the wheels no problem and do panic stops just fine. I was the problem.
Aluminum rims I think are more desirable still. if for nothing else just for the easy of adjustment,and even cheap pads will work to an acceptable level. but there is nothing wrong with steel rims, they just require more know-how to adjust properly.
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I have a Raleigh Record as well with the original steel wheels. I have replaced several spokes, and they run pretty true. I understand that aluminum wheels will stop better when wet. Other then that, would I notice a big difference in performance if I went through the trouble of getting aluminum wheels?
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If you can lower your brake pads 4mm from their 27" wheel position, you can easily accommodate 700C wheels. I do not agree that "steel wheels should stop perfectly well when dry," because the coefficient of friction between brake pad material and aluminum is inherently superior, particularly when wet, but even when dry. For your own safety, insist on salmon KoolStop brake pads, aluminum rims, and low-compression cable housings.
But in my experience with decent brake pads the performance in dry conditions was slightly better with steel chromed rims than with aluminum. Unfortunately once they get wet they lose stopping ability almost completely whereas the aluminum rims still retain a decent amount of friction.
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