A good, old Raleigh
12-17-12, 11:27 AM
#77
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Wow... I don't know if Yellow Jersey is good, but they *are* fast. They called me yesterday (yes, Sunday) to tell me that both wheels are built. I gave them my charge number and they said the wheels would be shipped out today. Looks like about a week total turnaround time. Incredible.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi 
"However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
12-21-12, 05:34 PM
#78
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
So the wheels came in yesterday. They are not perfectly round, but I think that's a function of the rims they were built from; slight flat spot at the weld seam. Having said that, the wheels are otherwise perfect and ride very nice. I took the Old Gentleman out for a 30 miler today. It rocks. Merry Christmas to me
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
12-21-12, 05:49 PM
#79
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Some updated bike porn of the Old Gentleman:
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
12-21-12, 06:56 PM
#81
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Thanks. I'm lovin' it.
Odd really- it doesn't ride like any other bike I have. It's ponderous, but very smooth.
One more pic from the shoot above:
Odd really- it doesn't ride like any other bike I have. It's ponderous, but very smooth.
One more pic from the shoot above:
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
Last edited by Doohickie; 01-02-13 at 06:50 AM.
12-21-12, 08:51 PM
#83
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
I think of it as the crown jewel of my humble collection.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
12-22-12, 12:31 AM
#84
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this raleigh makes me nostalgic. I rode a british cruiser for the majority of my bike-life growing up, and it is a symbol of those carefree bike riding day. Alas, those days are no more.
As far as I know, this type of bikes never really caught on in the US. I am glad you are able to find one.
As far as I know, this type of bikes never really caught on in the US. I am glad you are able to find one.
Last edited by CenturionIM; 12-22-12 at 08:42 AM.
12-26-12, 05:44 PM
#87
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
So now that the bike is rolling again, I decided to address the head and tail lamps. They run off a bottle generator. Looking through various threads on generator lights, it seems that most generators put out 6 VAC, 3 Watts (0.5 amp). Mine is different though
That's right: 12 V, 6 Watts... twice the power. That makes things complicated, because I can't use the standard bulbs.
My bulbs had both blown out over a year ago and I did some replacement... the tail light bulbs I got didn't last. I tried LED bulbs in the front, but they didn't sync up with the reflector and put out very little light. I ended up with an automotive 1003 bulb, which works, but is not very bright.
I found a web site called Bulb Town that has a huge selection of bulbs, including what base styles they have, plus their voltage, current and power ratings. I found that the 1003 automotive bulb I put in the headlight draws 12 Watts of power, so that's what it wasn't very bright. I also discovered it had a BA15S base, so I looked for 12 V bulbs with that base and found the 5007 bulb: 12 Volt, .42 Amp, 5 Watt, BA15S Bayonet Base, and in the LL (long life) version, 400 Average Rated Hours. This bulb is commonly available in auto parts stores. Looked about right.
For the tail light, I was pretty sure it had the same E10 based used on the 6 V systems,
so I looked at Bulb Town and found a #52 Miniature Bulb with an E10 BASE, 14.4 Volt, 0.10 Amp, 1.44 Watt, 1,000 Average Rated Hours Derating it to 12 V at 0.10 Amp draw and it pulls 1.2 Watts. That, plus the 5 Watts from the other bulb, is 6.2 Watts.... close enough, I hope, to the 6 Watt rating of the generator. This bulb is available at Radio Shack, Model: 52, Catalog #: 272-1127.
The only thing is, the Radio Shack version says it's only good for 30 hours.
Anyway, I got two of each bulb, the headlight at Pep Boys, and the tail light at Radio Shack. I installed them and they seem to work okay; we'll see how long they last.
(This is as much note to myself as it is a post for the thread; if/when the bulbs burn out I want to refer back to this post.)
That's right: 12 V, 6 Watts... twice the power. That makes things complicated, because I can't use the standard bulbs.
My bulbs had both blown out over a year ago and I did some replacement... the tail light bulbs I got didn't last. I tried LED bulbs in the front, but they didn't sync up with the reflector and put out very little light. I ended up with an automotive 1003 bulb, which works, but is not very bright.
I found a web site called Bulb Town that has a huge selection of bulbs, including what base styles they have, plus their voltage, current and power ratings. I found that the 1003 automotive bulb I put in the headlight draws 12 Watts of power, so that's what it wasn't very bright. I also discovered it had a BA15S base, so I looked for 12 V bulbs with that base and found the 5007 bulb: 12 Volt, .42 Amp, 5 Watt, BA15S Bayonet Base, and in the LL (long life) version, 400 Average Rated Hours. This bulb is commonly available in auto parts stores. Looked about right.
For the tail light, I was pretty sure it had the same E10 based used on the 6 V systems,
so I looked at Bulb Town and found a #52 Miniature Bulb with an E10 BASE, 14.4 Volt, 0.10 Amp, 1.44 Watt, 1,000 Average Rated Hours Derating it to 12 V at 0.10 Amp draw and it pulls 1.2 Watts. That, plus the 5 Watts from the other bulb, is 6.2 Watts.... close enough, I hope, to the 6 Watt rating of the generator. This bulb is available at Radio Shack, Model: 52, Catalog #: 272-1127.
The only thing is, the Radio Shack version says it's only good for 30 hours.
Anyway, I got two of each bulb, the headlight at Pep Boys, and the tail light at Radio Shack. I installed them and they seem to work okay; we'll see how long they last.
(This is as much note to myself as it is a post for the thread; if/when the bulbs burn out I want to refer back to this post.)
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-01-13, 10:48 PM
#88
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
First ride of the year was 16 miles on The Old Gentleman. I found out the Radio Shack bulbs are no good and ordered some other bulbs from that Bulb Town place.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-01-13, 11:32 PM
#90
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Thanks!
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-02-13, 12:28 AM
#91
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the heron bracket on the front is for a bicycle torch (battery ) and I,m not sure about the 7oo wheels, I seem to rem 27 1/4. even so --- very nice bike doohickie.
01-02-13, 12:37 AM
#93
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
The tires are 28 x 1-1/2, also known as 700B, with a 635 mm ISO bead seat diameter.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-02-13, 12:57 AM
#95
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Thanks!
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-03-13, 07:47 PM
#96
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Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sirrus Elite, 2008 Motobecane Fantom Cross, 2003 Schwinn Sierra GS, 1974 Raleigh Tourist DL-1, 1968(?) Schwinn Fleet
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Great to find this thread. I've had my '74 DL-1 for about three days and am overwhelmed with questions. After two rides I already know I've got to start planning to replace either the cog or chainring to get some lower end to this gearing. Are those parts pretty easy to come by? Not seeing 44 tooth Raleigh heron style cranks out there, but maybe the rear cog is simpler? I'm a real noobie at this.
01-03-13, 07:51 PM
#97
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Great to find this thread. I've had my '74 DL-1 for about three days and am overwhelmed with questions. After two rides I already know I've got to start planning to replace either the cog or chainring to get some lower end to this gearing. Are those parts pretty easy to come by? Not seeing 44 tooth Raleigh heron style cranks out there, but maybe the rear cog is simpler? I'm a real noobie at this.
Mine is a 1981 and currently is hanging in my shop waiting for me to get some work done on it.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
01-03-13, 09:04 PM
#98
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Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
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Beautiful bike!
01-03-13, 09:13 PM
#99
You gonna eat that?
Thread Starter
Great to find this thread. I've had my '74 DL-1 for about three days and am overwhelmed with questions. After two rides I already know I've got to start planning to replace either the cog or chainring to get some lower end to this gearing. Are those parts pretty easy to come by? Not seeing 44 tooth Raleigh heron style cranks out there, but maybe the rear cog is simpler? I'm a real noobie at this.
Cogs are very easy to swap out. What did yours come with? A 22t will probably be enough you can get up to 26t from BikeSmithDesign.
Thanks! I just got back from a quick 12 mile jaunt through the neighborhood.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-03-13, 09:21 PM
#100
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Western MI
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Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
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I grew up on copies of the raleigh DL-1, mainly Flying Pigeon and Forever. I always wanted one of these with the shallow head tube angle bike. My 1965 and 56 Robin Hoods are shallower than the Raleigh sports so they are closer to the DL-1 but they are only 21" frames. Being 6 ft tall, I wanted a bigger frame. There is one on the auction site right now now but the seller blocked me for bidding because I asked him/her a question about size and potential damage, LOL.
I always wanted to pull the trigger on a new Flying Pigeon but for $199 + $140 shipping, it just does not make sense. For $200, I would get one just for the frame, etc but replace the wheels.