Vintage Peugeot help
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Vintage Peugeot help
hi, new to the forums, and have been searching and searching for what i need...
picked up a vintage peugeot, mid to late 70's, going off of decals, cant find the serial number...
i just want to get it in shape to ride. it has a shimano derailleur, only stamp i found was "H-L"
the issue is the rear simplex derailleur which had "H78" stamped on the bottom... so.. the rear is tucked up nice and tight the the gears, rubbing some, being nice and noisy, and i can't seem to find a way to adjust it at all.
so i guess my question is, can i fix this 'easy'? do i need to upgrade the rear derailleur?
thank you in advance, it seems there is alot of great info to be found on this forum...
picked up a vintage peugeot, mid to late 70's, going off of decals, cant find the serial number...
i just want to get it in shape to ride. it has a shimano derailleur, only stamp i found was "H-L"
the issue is the rear simplex derailleur which had "H78" stamped on the bottom... so.. the rear is tucked up nice and tight the the gears, rubbing some, being nice and noisy, and i can't seem to find a way to adjust it at all.
so i guess my question is, can i fix this 'easy'? do i need to upgrade the rear derailleur?
thank you in advance, it seems there is alot of great info to be found on this forum...
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https://cyclespeugeot.com/ and https://retropeugeot.com/ are the best sites I know of when it comes to IDing a Pug.
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There are two means you can use to adjust. Since the rear derailleur seems to reach the large cog in the rear, I don't think adjusting the cable is needed.
The H L stamp on your Shimano derailleur is the indicator which screw will adjust the outboard and inboard travel of the derailleur. The rear derailleur will have something similar, though it may not be marked. It sounds as though you need to modify the amount of inboard travel (will be "L" or "Low" if it is marked). Ideally, when the derailleur is at the limit of it's inboard travel, the small pulley wheels will be directly aligned with the largest cog. If it isn't, turning the "L" screw counterclockwise will allow more inboard travel, and clockwise to allow less. Adjust 1/4 turn at a try.
The H L stamp on your Shimano derailleur is the indicator which screw will adjust the outboard and inboard travel of the derailleur. The rear derailleur will have something similar, though it may not be marked. It sounds as though you need to modify the amount of inboard travel (will be "L" or "Low" if it is marked). Ideally, when the derailleur is at the limit of it's inboard travel, the small pulley wheels will be directly aligned with the largest cog. If it isn't, turning the "L" screw counterclockwise will allow more inboard travel, and clockwise to allow less. Adjust 1/4 turn at a try.
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Last edited by USAZorro; 10-19-08 at 08:43 PM.
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well. head tube decal is a type III -'75-'79
seat tube decal is type II -'70-'76
and downtube decals are type IV -'74-'78
and like i said, cant find serial #
seat tube decal is type II -'70-'76
and downtube decals are type IV -'74-'78
and like i said, cant find serial #
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Regardless of the year it falls into the '75-'76 range and its a UO8 model possible a UE8.
I think the problem you having is that the upper rear derailleur jockey wheel is rubbing on the larger cogs. Unfortunately, aside from changing derailleurs, there's not much you can do about it.
I think the problem you having is that the upper rear derailleur jockey wheel is rubbing on the larger cogs. Unfortunately, aside from changing derailleurs, there's not much you can do about it.
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It's definitely one of the touring models. In the 3rd pic you can just make out the bent over tabs to secure the wiring harness and in the last photo the tab for the generator is visible on the left chainstay. Howver, it has the late 1970s cotterless crank. Based on Peugeot's model system, that would make it a UE9 or an equivalent foreign model.
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Looks similar to mine, but I have the Stronglight cranks, and a different front derailleur. I've more or less figured that it's a UO10, but I'm NOT totally positive. Regardless, it rides, and reminds me of driving an old car. Lots of squeaks, ticks, and indescribable noises. But boy is it fun to ride.
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I think the problem you having is that the upper rear derailleur jockey wheel is rubbing on the larger cogs. Unfortunately, aside from changing derailleurs, there's not much you can do about it.
Thank you!!! that was what i was really wondering...
mine has the Stronglight cranks as well...
aside from the jockey wheel rubbing, the other noises arent too bad, and it is fun to ride... having a few issues with the brakes too, but nothing too terrible...
found 1978 on the back wheel as well... so, the bike is pretty much the same age as i am...
Thank you!!! that was what i was really wondering...
mine has the Stronglight cranks as well...
aside from the jockey wheel rubbing, the other noises arent too bad, and it is fun to ride... having a few issues with the brakes too, but nothing too terrible...
found 1978 on the back wheel as well... so, the bike is pretty much the same age as i am...
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Looks similar to mine, but I have the Stronglight cranks, and a different front derailleur. I've more or less figured that it's a UO10, but I'm NOT totally positive. Regardless, it rides, and reminds me of driving an old car. Lots of squeaks, ticks, and indescribable noises. But boy is it fun to ride.
A U010 would not have the fenders or rack as original equipment and would would not have the tabs for the lighting system. The U010 also has more aluminum components (i.e. rims, seat post, bars, etc) The OP's bicycle appears to have the serrated, steel rims.