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Thread: Campy questions

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    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Campy questions

    I just bought an old Raleigh Competition with Campy Nuovo Gran Sport components. The components are not horribly dirty, but they are far from clean. I want to disassemble them completely one at a time and polish and re-grease them. This is my first experience with campy and I was hoping that some of you would have tips or warnings to help me out. Confidence is not my problem, lack of experience is.

    Thanks,
    Matt

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    http://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/

    Should get you started, good luck!

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    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link, I didn't realize how serious polishing could get. I don't have a buffer or dremel tool though, so I polished a few things by hand. I worked on the rear derailleur what seemed like an eternity, but I took it all apart and cleaned and re-greased the springs while I was at it. I will post some pictures if anyone is interested, see if my work makes the grade.

    Thanks again,
    Matt

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    I just cleaned my bike and it loooks great!

    Start with a thorough cleaning and wiping/polish with a clean, soft cloth. A "polishing" may not be necessary or advisable. The finish on a lot of Campy aluminum parts has a soft and slightly matte appearance.

  5. #5
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    I used Never-Dull and some aluminum paste on the parts I cleaned. Parts like the front derailleur hanger and shifters have that matte appearance, I cleaned them, and took some yellowing away, but I think they look good overall. Would it be wise to put some wax on the clean parts?

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    Freewheel Medic pastorbobnlnh's Avatar
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    Wax is generally for painted surfaces. The alloy parts you polish will last for quite some time. A cleaning and light polishing once a year should keep them looking great.

    This picture of my NR RD was polished over a year before I took this picture (which was 18 months ago). At the moment, other then dust, the RD looks the same. It was in rough shape when I received it. So, as you can see, a good polish and good yearly PM, can keep them very nice looking.

    Let's see some pictures of your progress. Best of luck.

    Bob
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    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the rear derailleur, I am not much of a photographer and the flash really washed the whole thing out. There are a few crumb sized scuffs on the face of it, can you use very fine sand paper or compound to buff it, or is that ill advised. Also, I have a pic of my front derailleur, I cannot remember how where the spring attaches, I should have taken a pic before hand, but as always was less than patient.

    Matt
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    By the way pastorbob, that looks great. I don't know how you get all the little pieces so clean, I worked my fingers to the bone for hours and still didn't get results like those.

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    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    For getting throught the basic grime, I like an old tooth brush and mineral spirits.

    I usually just hand-polish with Simichrome or whatever good-quality polish I have around. Vintage Campy stuff wasn't really meant to shine like diamonds.

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    Freewheel Medic pastorbobnlnh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbonamici View Post
    For getting throught the basic grime, I like an old tooth brush and mineral spirits.

    I usually just hand-polish with Simichrome or whatever good-quality polish I have around. Vintage Campy stuff wasn't really meant to shine like diamonds.
    But it can!

    Bob
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    Visit my websites:
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  11. #11
    Mostly Mischief jan nikolajsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkeller234 View Post
    Also, I have a pic of my front derailleur, I cannot remember how where the spring attaches, I should have taken a pic before hand, but as always was less than patient.
    Matt, here's a pic of the spring arrangement on a slightly newer, albeit much dirtier FR than yours. Maybe that helps.

    Good luck, Jan


  12. #12
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    That helps immensely! Thats where I was trying to put the bottom of the spring but it was not going easily. I searched for pictures like the one you took, but obviously the back is not as photogenic. Thanks for the pic.

    Matt

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    Senior Member poprad's Avatar
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    PastorB; you got a link to more pics of those fine steeds? Gorgeous.

    From my Raleigh Comp GS rebuild last winter:



    Last edited by poprad; 10-21-08 at 05:42 PM.
    I live in search of finest examples of the 3 B's: Bikes, Beans (coffee), and Beer

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    Full Clout Y'all Skylar's Avatar
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    I've been cleaning the tripletrees and clip-ons on my motorcycle recently. I've had good results.

    I use a combo of scotchbrite pads, welding brushes, the brass wheel on my bench grinder, and neverdull to finish. I've cleaned aluminum and copper this way.

    I'm going to do the aluminium bits on my Miyata as well.
    1985 Kuwahara SS
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    And I've built up & given away eight bikes to date.

    http://velospace.org/user/15404

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    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    My components belong to a 79 Raleigh Comp GS frame as well. The nuovo record certainly is much prettier than my campy gran sport. The brand and model are less than perfectly legible on my rear derailleur (or Derailer - which is appropriate).

  16. #16
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Ok, another general question. What is best used to lubricate the derailleur pulleys? Light lubricant like Tri-Flow or water proof bearing grease?

  17. #17
    Senior Member poprad's Avatar
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    I use std bike grease, Pedro's to be exact, but only because it comes with the nifty squeezy nozzle. A lot of folks use oil, but in my opinion that's a tad too concerned with friction for my uses. I'm not stoked to tear apart my pulleys several times/season to re-oil. Pulley friction 'aint slowing me down, 10 lbs of fat is.
    I live in search of finest examples of the 3 B's: Bikes, Beans (coffee), and Beer

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