Unicornz0

I picked up a 1973 Raleigh Super Course this evening from CL. It has gorgeous ornate lug work on the head tube and frame. It has the chrome fork ends and chrome chain stay ends, Brooks B17/B15 saddle with holes for lacing. It also has a nice long wheelbase of about 40.5 inches. Unfortunately, it's only in fair condition cosmetically. It was not stored well. There is rust on the chrome. I'm concerned about how to remove the rust from the half chrome fork and chain stays without damaging the fairly good paint. I have first hand experience that steel wool and paint don't get along well. I'm thinking maybe I can tape the painted area where it meets the chromed area before I start scrubbing with the steel wool. I'm hoping someone has a better Idea on how to protect the painted frame area while removing rust from the adjoining chromed area. Has anyone done this successfully? There must be a better way. I want it to look as close as possible to this 1970 brown SC:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroral...er-course.html

Thanks in advance,
Uni

RobbieTunes

Walmart sells a cheap rust remover that comes in a plastic bottle.

First, spray WD-40 directly on the rust and let it sit, then again, and use a toothbrush. This softens it up some.

Then get the rust remover out. You put it on with a toothbrush, and if you don't leave it on, it does a good job on the chrome, doesn't hurt the paint too bad. I'd try several applications, let it sit 1-3 minutes, and rinse off. If you leave it on too long, it will affect the paint, so use several shorter applications.

mkeller234

I use oxalic acid to remove rust from steel and chrome. You can buy it at paint stores like sherwin williams for about 7-8 dollars, it comes in a concentrated crystal form. Fill up a kiddie pool with some water and oxalic acid, let it sit for a little bit and the acid will eat the rust without touching the paint, plus it will treat the insides of the frame. Wash the frame down after with some soap and water, I also use baking soda to neutralize the acid just in case. Search oxalic acid and you will get great great information. I used to use steel wool but now realize that it is only:
1: worse for the chrome (scratches)
2: labor intensive (compared to oa)
3: Not as good of results
Plus steel wool leaves little steel shavings everywhere which later turn into little steel splinters.

-matt

here are a couple of parts I used oa on.... and they were very very rust before hand.

https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...5&d=1226553855

https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...4&d=1226553842

mkeller234

Soylent green is people...lol. I used to say this all the time just to drive my wife nuts.

Unicornz0

Thanks for you help.
I also need information on how to remove those bike shop peel and stick labels from the frame and a 1972 peel and stick bicycle license.
Thanks again,
UnI

TIOS

How bad is the rust? Is it just on the surface or is it deep and causing pitting into the tubing? Depending on how severe the rust is, masking off the painted area with a few layers of masking tape - the blue painters type is easy to use and remove - and using something like Eagle One Never Dull should get the job done quick. Never Dull comes in a silver and black can and is at Wal-Mart or Kragen Auto for around $5. It is a polishing wadding that you just rub on; keep rubbing for the bad stuff ... and it works wonders. I saved a vintage chromed Raleigh pump that was 80% surface rusted over and it looks great after the Never Dull use. I just wish I had taken before and after pictures of it.

mkeller234

Try heating the stickers up with a hair dryer, once the glue is soft you can probably remove them with your fingernail. I would bet the paint will be fresher underneath and look different than the rest, I had that situation on 2 old bikes, but still, it looked better without.

-Matt

mkeller234

I'd be curious to see pictures if you have them?

RobbieTunes

Quad laser. sounds like Heavy Gear or MechWarrior.

Exit.

You know what Heavy Gear and MechWarrior are, but didn't know who Super Mario was?

o.0;

mkeller234

No, actually Aqua teen hunger force. Used to be a funny show, then it got pretty bad and had in your face product placement. My signature used to be "take it...it makes me look poor" and that was from the same show. Not the best quotes from the show, but they popped in my head for whatever reason.

Unicornz0

Thanks everyone.
Tios the Never Dull sounds very promising, as the rust is heavy. I'm not sure about pitting. I picked up the bike last night.
mkeller234 I will try to post pictures later this evening depending on today's weather and lighting.

wrk101

+1 Do a search on rust. This comes up every week, and you can learn a lot by reading the old threads.

+1 Oxalic acid is the key. I just finished soaking a set of chrome forks, steel crankset, and other parts.

Unicornz0

Here are some before pictures of the 1973 Raleigh Carlton Super Course. Maybe I will have some after pictures to post.
Thanks again to all. Suggestions are welcomed.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038096425/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038933946/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038096189/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038096033/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038096481/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038096351/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27544233@N03/3038933804/

Unicornz0

Hi mkeller234 et al, thanks for the tips. Those pictures are amazing. I can see that it will be worth the effort for me to disassemble the bike and soak it that oxalic acid. Now, I've got to buy bike tools.
I posted pictures. You can see how badly the fork is rusted by clicking on the magnifier at the top of the picture. Will the oxalic acid eat that rust away? How long to soak it without harm to the paint or the metal parts? I don't want to risk having any damage.
Thanks again,
Uni

mkeller234

Thanks for the pictures. I believe the brakes and maybe other components on your bike are anodized and should not be soaked in oxalic acid. Make sure whatever goes into soak is steel, works great on all the little bolts that are hard to polish. Use never dull or something like it on your brakes. That bike definatly needs to be overhauled, new cables, housings, bearings etc. Super courses are nice bikes though and you will have a great bike when you are done. I have only been doing this for a short time and I have had a ton of help from members on this forum. There is a guy on ebay who sells reproduction decals for this bike if that interests you at all. I got some for my Raleigh Professional and was really impressed with the quality.

Here is an example of what he sells:

https://cgi.ebay.com/Raleigh-early-70...713.m153.l1262

-Matt

Unicornz0

Thanks Matt. I appreciate you letting me know about using that acid only for steel parts. I will look in to the Never Dull and Eagle One that Tios mentioned. Thanks for the info on the decals too. Do you know where I can find a really long 21.1 quill stem?

Unicornz0

Thanks Matt. I appreciate you letting me know about using that acid only for steel parts. I will look in to the Never Dull and Eagle One that Tios mentioned. Thanks for the info on the decals too. Do you know where I can find a really long 21.1 alloy quill stem?

mkeller234

I'd say check ebay for the stem, or maybe your lbs has some good old stuff stashed away. Asthetically I like the stem you have on there, It does look awfully high though, double check that your seat post and stem are not past the minimum insertion point.

mkeller234

Polishing things with never dull will make them like shiny, but if you want to see some really nice work do a search on Ray Dobbins.

I polished these with never dull, and this looks bad compared to Ray Dobbins:

TIOS

That is a nice Raleigh. I had a red one that was a few years newer pass through my hands a few months back. Those were about mid level bikes in the Raleigh lineup so be careful what time and $ you put into it. Might not get it all back. If you still have to purchase bike tools and are planning on doing a full restoration great, but...

try the Never-Dull first. A few bucks, some spare time and a little elbow grease will tell you how good or bad the corrosion is and that might tell you what direction to go with the bike. And Never-Dull is good to have around anyways for making things shine on any of your bikes.

Oh, Eagle One makes Never-Dull. Here is the link and what to look for in the stores...

https://www.eagleone.com/pages/produc...=1006&cat=5006

Good Luck and have fun with it!

TIOS

Unicornz0

Thank you all very much,
Uni

RobbieTunes

We didn't have a Nintendo, or any video games until well after my son could read at a certain level. And once he could read, he got into books for a while, and we ended up with a PS2. I don't think I've played it six times in my life.

But I bought a PC when they first came out...first the Tandy 1000, then a DOS PC XT, then the whole Windows snafu. I did a few years as a Big Brother, and the boy lived 45 miles away. We'd play Mechwarrior One-on-One over the phone line.....Now I've got a fambly, mortgate, etc, and my "little brother" is driving around in a Lotus......

RobbieTunes

+1 Ray Dobbins
+1 Bench grinder, buffing pads, and good polish.
Makes a world of difference in time and quality.
Santa better bring me one, or I'll go reindeer hunting.

Unicornz0

Hello to everyone,
I took a look at the Ray Dobbins site. Great tips and beautiful bikes.
Thanks everyone,
Uni