noglider 

I could do that, but I'd need all the necessary parts. I currently have a 6-speed 13-32 Shimano 600 freewheel, and the two middle cogs are worn and cause skipping.

NWGuy99

"hmm, what other models used that part?"
I believe SX units have that part riveted. SJ units I believe are removable; SLJ are removable. In the few part diagrams I have seen, the parts are listed by different part numbers. Not sure that is a French thing or there are subtle differences (possibly in length between them.

Thanks for looking. I will be home again and be able to report on the plastic Prestige ones I have to confirm models

RobbieTunes

First, I'd want to know "how recently," and why doesn't your CL ad from Los Angeles doesn't show a price or a date? Was it before or after your accident? If before, why did you crop out the price? Perhaps you don't want anyone to see what you thought it was worth before someone "had to buy it?" If it was after your accident, you have some real problems, and would require a good explanation. I'd call in the fraud unit to take a look at your claims history, etc. Just because it's a flag that's worth looking into.



I could probably help, but as soon as you went to "handcrafted vintage bike made in the 80's, "the parts aren't made anymore" and "maximum return on the damages," I start to wonder about your motives. Almost all of the decent bikes were handcrafted in the 80's, other than the bike boom bikes.

"Not made any more" does not mean it's Fausto Coppi's personal bike, or uber-valuable. Do you want proof of real value or proof of inflated value? Are you giving up salvage? Google "Nishiki International" and look at the corresponding prices, adjust the value of yours to those, which is what statute requires of the insurance company.

There are two ways to go about it: document the actual value to the general public, not you, and hold to that. OR, exaggerate it and negotiate. Either one generally come out pretty close to the same amount; depends on your conscience. It's not a real special bike, and the market value is easily determined.

Good luck. Here's how I'd make offer to you, based on 30-40 minutes of research. You'd have to come up with better research to convince my bosses that I was not adhering to statute or being fair and accurate.

$900, and not sold. Apparently, few want to spend $900 on an older steel bike with modern parts. Not a bad price, though. This is a lot more bike than you had, no doubt about it. https://lexington.craigslist.org/bik/5439276732.html

$135 and definitely not up to the level of yours, but it's as far "down" as the $900 is "up." https://columbus.craigslist.org/bik/5407813855.html

$300 and similar to yours. https://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/bik/5433515200.html

$390 and probably more valuable than yours if a person likes the Nishiki brand, all OEM, not a mix of parts. https://cleveland.craigslist.org/bik/5427070774.html

$150 and sold. Definitely proof of value.



VINTAGE - 54 CM NISHIKI INTERNATIONAL. DIACOMPE. SUNTOUR.SUGINO.1970s
$150.00 3d 15h 43m 19s left Buy It Now! eBay.com



Unsold, butthere's a Kawamura for you....

57.5cm NISHIKI INTERNATIONAL 1980 KAWAMURA Champagne Chrome Lugged Steel Frame
$279.99 19d 21h 39m 28s left Buy It Now! eBay.com

$100, and probably about right for the market for that old of a bike. Missed the link, but it was on Search Tempest.

$125 and probably about right for the marke for that old of a bike. https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/5389267341.html

$130 and probably worth as much as your bike. If I was the adjuster, I'd be now thinking in the $200-$250 range. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/5437924834.html

$400 and a lot more bike than yours, it appears. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...433967347.html

The average is 278.18 for all of these, and I'd add shipping of $75, loss of use of $50, and offer you $400 take it or leave it. My file would be well documented that I considered more expensive restorations with upgrades, and show that I've been more than fair based on actual physical evidence. I'd ask you to keep salvage, and be done with it. Pretty simple claim.

And this should be moved to appraisal inquiries. Again, good luck, but here's evidence of your bike's value. I'd take the $400 and either rebuild around another frame or buy another bike, sell off the remaining parts, maybe keep those cool wheels. Up to you.

Lots of questions here, and if I was the adjuster and you sent me that ad, I'd sure ask CL to show me the original ad. Nothing in their contract says they can't, it's public info. If the price was fair, and in line with the research, I'd make that offer. After all, that's what you told the universe you'd sell it for.

rccardr 

And THAT, my friends, is an answer.

curbtender

Weren't most of the Nishiki's Kawamura built? By the way, I'd think the $400 replacement price is about right.

RobbieTunes

Maybe too high, but fair, since he probably didn't throw his bike in front of a car. He probably has that much in it, which is always the problem with a "built" bike cost vs. market value.

If it's just frame and crankset prices, a better frame (Nishiki Professional) is available locally to him for $195, and the price of a crankset is closer to $50-$55. Labor to swap in would be about $100, putting him again in the $400 price range.

If his CL ad was posted after the accident, it could be anything from soliciting offers on value for a nicely fixed up single speed, to indications of something not quite right. The photo properties are not available, but the photo "name" is Nishiki Orange no-price... what's up with one of the few bikes offered on CL with no price just happening to be involved in an accident?

On the flip side, for all we know, he bought the bike from the ad, and then got hit by a car. Unfortunate, if so, and I hope he's fine. California is chock full of ambulance chasers who by now have contacted him after mining the daily accident reports for future vict....er, clients.

My nose itches.

Deshi

I'm in search of some shimano bits...golden arrow group.

Golden Arrow Crankset 170mm FC-S125

Hopefully someone can help.

Cheers!

3speedslow

Must have emptied the bin of larger freewheels when I moved down to the coast. Largest one is a 5 speed and it's only 26.

Sorry.

jethin

ISO: Campy SR seatpost bolt and beveled spacer (right term?) like this:



Alternatively, does anyone know of a decent workaround (bolt size, spacer replacement, etc.)

HAVE: Whatchuwant?

3speedslow

Need: Bolts to replace the ones I had to drill out to release this 3TTT Record stem from a handle bar. Would settle for coming up with tradebait for another TTT stem close in period approp
Going on the root beer Italvega coming.
Stem bolt length is 140 mm

Clamp bolt is 35mm

Italian threading I imagine.

Long shot but still a chance, right ?

Have: stuff I haven't given away yet.

Thanks to all for considerations

ultraman6970

I have one moving around since easy 20 years ago. Sent you a PM with my email.

RobbieTunes

I have a headset, RD, and calipers, brake levers with no hoods.
The Raleighs they came off of all had Raleigh SR cranksets.
I don't think I've even seen one. Bet they're cool.

ISO:

Panaracer Practice 270 tubular, 700c, or one that looks like it. Not a Yellow Jersey or Vittoria Rally.

56cm c-top light touring frame/fork. Would like eyelets and some clearance for gravel-size tires.
DT shifter bosses not required, but would be fine.

Have:

Tufo S33 Pro (all black). The Tufo is a better tire, but all black, and I want my spare to have that light sidewall.

Maillard 500 hubs/stainless spokes/Matrix Titan hard-anodized 700c wheelset. 126mm freewheel-type.
Good shape. Nice wheelset. I'm all Suntour or modern, so I don't need this one.

Fulcrum 7 wheelset, black hubs/spokes, anodized red rims faded where decals removed, 10-sp only 2mm deep splines.

Shimano Golden Arrow caliper set w/good pads and holders.
Shimano Golden Arrow non-aero brake levers, no hoods, good shape.
Shimano Golden Arrow headset in very good shape. Stack is higher than average.
Shimano Golden Arrow RD in very good shape.

Suntour GPX brake levers, only one hood (dark grey)

Profile Design H2O threadless stem 1" to 26.0 in case you have a boat that needs held in place
3TTT Forgie 90mm stem 1" to 26.0 in case you need a nice stem that has two big ugly bolts in front.

Black 6700 hoods in good shape.
Black 5700 hoods in decent shape. One is good, the other has been patched with Plasti-dip, pea-sized hole.

650c hard-anodized rim. 32h. Not sure where that came from.

Old-school fabric aero 700c wheel covers with clips. I've used them. Let's just leave it at that.

Vetta turbo-type saddle, good logo, black suede-type. Your butt will definitely stay in place.
Vetta anatomic-type saddle in good shape. Shiny black.

A white Dri-Fit base layer in medium, too small, short sleeve.
A grey Under Armour base layer in small, long sleeve.

SimplySycles1

Hello, I was really disappointed when I saw this was 23" but I just saw it is a 61cm, still have it? I am sure I can give you something good in return.

Thanks
Ruben

NWGuy99

Hi Cyclotoine:
Thanks for the ISO reply. You had asked for a reminder. Sorry, I cannot do a PM since I have less than 50 posts....

I did a little research on velo and among my lower end Simplex RD and I found the following basic rules: I believe SX units have that part riveted. SJ units I believe are removable; SLJ are removable. In the few part diagrams I have seen, the parts are listed by different part numbers. Not sure that is a French thing or there are subtle differences (possibly in length, and width) between them.

cyclotoine

Apologies and thank you. Well in the end I did not check because I know what I have is an SX unit so after you posted that it is riveted I figured you were not interested. If you are interested I can send you the carcass which includes the riveted on part.

RobbieTunes

No crankset, but I do have these.

Deshi

RobbieTunes.. I pm'd ya.

Bikerider007

ISO: Skip tooth cog, Italian thread 8t.

Some stuff to trade, let me know what you are looking for.

CO_Hoya 

The SIS unit on the rear shifter of my SL-6208 [6-speed Shimano 600, Velobase link] has all the teeth sheared off.

I found 4 of them. Sniff.


Does anyone have a spare SIS unit? This is the Model SL-6208-FCAI, for downtube braze-ons A-type [M5].

I've got lots of stuff for trade.

jeirvine 

I have a baggie of 600 DT shifters/parts. Email me to remind me to dig it up tomorrow: jeirvine at gmail dot com.
-J

smoothness 

if he doesn't follow through, i think i have a set or two as well. one of them definitely has the teeth sheared off; the other probably doesn't. you can have the broken innards if you want to try to frankenstein something.

pro tip: to prevent that from happening in the future when trying to shift from SiS to friction...LOOSEN the fixing bolt first. I learned that the hard way.

ISO: HP-6400 lower race and little plastic seals. i found two sets of the headsets...both are missing the plastic seals. if anyone has an alternative, i'm all ears.

rccardr 

Sadly, the weak part on Shimano 6208 groups, otherwise such a fantastic bunch of components. In the past, I've replaced end game 6208 shifters with much stronger and better designed Shimano 1050 6 speed 105 units, which can still be found NOS (Loose Screws). These can be de-anodized with a brass brush on a Dremel tool and nicely polished to match the rest of the components.

Or, the innards can be replaced with 10 speed indexing guts from a 7800 set of bar ends (BA78 if I recall correctly).

JohnDThompson 

Loose Screws has some. They're Dura-Ace, but will fit in the 600 lever:



https://www.loosescrews.com/product/...sis-unit-only/

CO_Hoya 

Thank you all for the assistance. I've currently got leads on both SL-6208 (6-sp 600) and SL-1050 (6-sp 105) shifters, so hopefully I'll have a working solution.

stien

Anyone holding onto a vintage CX frame? Must be steel, and clear 30mm road slicks. 54-55.5 top tube. Same or shorter ST. Would consider a road frame if it fits the tires too. Must be able to take 11s parts (right Bb cable guides, 126 or 130 rear).