Do not use this rack for heavy touring though, it was designed to handle about 25 pounds if I recall correctly. There are a better racks these days on the market.
I just received a Raleigh Sprint three speed, a true garage queen, bought and I do not think ever ridden, even once. In classic coffee brown metallic metal flake.
Last edited by rekmeyata; 02-01-13 at 07:57 AM.
I would definitely recommend a thorough bead blasting, and then give it a VERY close inspection! It may have rusted though in a few spots and be unsafe to ride. The bead blast will remove much of the rust scale, and any pinholes will mean it's a goner most likely. If it spent time under water, the rust inside the tubes could be worse than the outside. Proceed with caution!,,,,BD
"Whale. Oil. Beef. Hooked!" The Rumjacks
But wow, if it can be brought back,
you'll have a Colnago Super, and one hell of a story!
One of these carbon ruffians asks you
-"Where did you get that bike?"
You can say
"The bottom of the reservoir."
Rust appears cosmetic. I am looking into possibly the acid bath. All the steel seems solid, though pitted a bit. The bike was never under water. It was prob outside for about a year through 4 seasons. All bearings still turn without much resistance. It also had most original components as well. Missing where just wheels, petals and seat. It seems these frames carry a bit of cred though so might be worth a bit of sweat labor to bring it back!
If you guys/gals know or could reccomend the best approach to strip all the rust and seal it (inside the frame and out) tell me! Thanks so much.
tyjaman - I really hope you fix that one up and take lots of pictures. I would love to see what it looks like when complete. Crazy story too. Crazy
A friend of mine is a pre-eminent collector of Moultons and he decided to retire this one. He is a master mechanic and expert class builder in every respect so all I need to do is swap the stem and bars and fit a proper Brooks saddle... I believe he had adapted this Moulton for his son to ride, hence the shortened cockpit.
I think that GB stem and rando bars I have sitting in my shop will look wonderful.
Generator hub on custom built wheels...
Shimano Inter7 hub... and new dual pivot brakes.
And for the money... the frame has been powder coated and know all the important bits have been expertly serviced.
You know I am going to build a custom and swappable rack for this that will accommodate panniers...
Think that I will get the bars swapped tomorrow and take it back to what is was when I first test rode it and so it is a good fit... this was one of the bicycles that inspired me to build up my P20.
Should serve as great about town bicycle as well as a capable light touring bicycle... and an awesome loaner for select people.
The seller I purchaced this from pulled it from the trash on trash day. The only thing wrong with it is a rear wheel that needs trued and a good cleaning. It is a Diamond Back Master TG. I don't know how these relate to the Centurion line up, but it is all 105 with True Temper steel.
The delima is weather to clean it up and sell it (too small for me) or shift the parts to a better frame. I just don't think the Diamond Back name would command what it is worth.
i like that bike - looks a 63cm-ish range?
you must be big fella
Kleins, Kleins...everywhere there's Kleins
Strip the decals right off if you can, polish up the frame nicely with scratch-X, take a good photo, and sell it on CL as a frameset. List it as a "nice lugged quality steel frame in Xcm with downtube shifter bosses. Great project frame for taller rider or convert to single speed" I bet you'll get a bunch of calls.
Don't mention the names Diamondback or True-temper. They are not the droids buyers are looking for. You could probably get $50-75 for the frameset if you lived in or near a decent market once spring hits. Maybe even more. Who knows. It'd go fast in Chicago for upwards of $100. I'd rebuild the headset, chase/face the BB so it looked pristine, and push the fact this good-quality lugged vintage frame with down-tube shifter bosses is ready to build and professionally prepped. Many folks hear lugged, & down-tube bosses and immediately they are impressed that it must be a somewhat higher-end vintage frame. They aren't all that far off.
Keep the rest of the parts for another build or sell piecemeal as well. If the wheelset is cleaned up, trued, rebuilt bearings you might get a decent price for them too. The groupset might sell together or a la carte. It depends on if you want to sell them or how much time and effort you want to spend on individual sales.
Good find. But not a flipper whole IMHO. If you want to flip the whole bike at least pull the decals off. The Diamond Back name will to be your friend here for resale value.
'74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports
This one looked in similar condition to the OP's, when I picked it up for $125.. A little polish, and some new tires, and it got snapped up in a hurry. Really, they are outstanding bikes, worthy of the Centurion name on the left chainstay.
"Whale. Oil. Beef. Hooked!" The Rumjacks
+1 New tires, bar tape, cables and housings, plus an overall cleaning, and its ready to market. Should do just fine in most markets.
I usually strip the ones where there are significant frame issues/damage, a frankenbike, or have high end, valuable components. 105 does not get much respect in the market, I do better with groups like 105 and RX100 when they were attached to a bike/frame.
Now if you have a nice vintage Trek frameset sitting around, sure, swap away.