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Old 02-04-13, 10:02 PM   #8951
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And that HAS to be the oldest GT I've ever seen, that wasn't a BMX? Never seen that frame, or the graphics either. COOL!! I want it!!,,,,BD


edit;I might even be persuaded to trade my 84 Trek 830 for it?? Reaches arm out for you to twist, hehe.
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Old 02-05-13, 12:23 AM   #8952
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It's also a fact that the DB name has been tarnished in the eyes of the general buying public and most people looking for a quality bike on CL will see DB and think Huffy.
I had no problem selling a diamondback master tg road bike for over $400, so i'm going to have to disagree with you there
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Old 02-05-13, 05:30 AM   #8953
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And that HAS to be the oldest GT I've ever seen, that wasn't a BMX? Never seen that frame, or the graphics either. COOL!! I want it!!,,,,BD


edit;I might even be persuaded to trade my 84 Trek 830 for it?? Reaches arm out for you to twist, hehe.
I think it cool that the seat stays attach at the top tube, instead of the top tube/ seat tube juncture. Geometry looks tight, too.
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Old 02-05-13, 07:32 AM   #8954
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Phenomenal score on the GT, those bikes have great appeal to both vintage MTB and BMX aficionados.
I just know I'm going to face the same problem I had when I found a minty Fuji Saratoga touring bike - I went out looking to replace my ill-fitting townie/bad weather bike and after I build it up I'm going to think "well this is too pretty to ride in the rain, you should find another bike for that..." Damn you, n+1!

Also - it has a fair amount of rust spotting on the chrome. I wouldn't be terribly excited to strip it all down to give it an OA bath - what's my best bet for topical application?
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Old 02-05-13, 07:51 AM   #8955
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As long as it's not clearcoated. A little #0000 steel wool, and some windex or other type cleaner to lube the wool. Should look brand new in no time. #0000 is very fine, and will not scratch at all. Don't buy the cheap stuff if you can help it though, cause it breaks down into little pieces and makes a huge mess.,,,,BD
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Old 02-05-13, 09:15 AM   #8956
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I just know I'm going to face the same problem I had when I found a minty Fuji Saratoga touring bike - I went out looking to replace my ill-fitting townie/bad weather bike and after I build it up I'm going to think "well this is too pretty to ride in the rain, you should find another bike for that..." Damn you, n+1!

Also - it has a fair amount of rust spotting on the chrome. I wouldn't be terribly excited to strip it all down to give it an OA bath - what's my best bet for topical application?
I'm in the committed OA camp. Treating a fork is no big deal. Realize chrome layer on bikes is very thin, its not a bumper on a 57 Chevy. Abrasives can't tell the difference between rust, chrome, or good paint. They all get removed. And unless you use a microscope, you will likely be leaving behind some small seeds of rust, and the rust will come roaring back.

I let chemistry work for me, it removes the rust I can see and the rust I cannot see, but leaves behind the chrome, decals, and paint. Pretty amazing stuff!

Now treating an entire frame is more work. I usually do that campaign style, do five to ten frames back to back, reusing the same O A solution.
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Old 02-05-13, 09:41 AM   #8957
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I'm in the committed OA camp. Treating a fork is no big deal. Realize chrome layer on bikes is very thin, its not a bumper on a 57 Chevy. Abrasives can't tell the difference between rust, chrome, or good paint. They all get removed. And unless you use a microscope, you will likely be leaving behind some small seeds of rust, and the rust will come roaring back.

I let chemistry work for me, it removes the rust I can see and the rust I cannot see, but leaves behind the chrome, decals, and paint. Pretty amazing stuff!

Now treating an entire frame is more work. I usually do that campaign style, do five to ten frames back to back, reusing the same O A solution.
^A million times THIS^

The only thing steel wool is good for is stripping frames. If one must use wool it should only be brass wool. Steel leaves behind micro bits that will rust and discolor, it scratches something fierce, and removes too much good material.

OA gets the rust out and converts anything that won't come out to more stable iron oxides so it will not continue to rust on its own. Polish with chrome polish and then treat with wax to fill in the pits so that no further rust will form.

Why use your elbow more than you have to? Scratched chrome is forever. Like Thrifty Bill said, there is only a very thin layer of it on most bikes. Let chemistry do the work for you.
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Old 02-05-13, 11:56 AM   #8958
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^A million times THIS^

The only thing steel wool is good for is stripping frames. If one must use wool it should only be brass wool. Steel leaves behind micro bits that will rust and discolor, it scratches something fierce, and removes too much good material.

OA gets the rust out and converts anything that won't come out to more stable iron oxides so it will not continue to rust on its own. Polish with chrome polish and then treat with wax to fill in the pits so that no further rust will form.

Why use your elbow more than you have to? Scratched chrome is forever. Like Thrifty Bill said, there is only a very thin layer of it on most bikes. Let chemistry do the work for you.

I'd love to let the OA magic work for me, but completely stripping the frame would take quite a bit of work too. If it was just the fork it would be easy...

Some searching has me thinking I'll try the aluminum foil method. Don't worry, I'll be gentle, and will start underneath the bottom bracket or somewhere else out of sight to test. Don't hate me if this ends up on the "vintage mountain bikes with drop bars" thread - I promise I'll keep all the original parts!
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Old 02-05-13, 12:09 PM   #8959
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I live in a part of Cambridge between Harvard and MIT. While walking my dog the other day, we passed a vacant lot that is sort of a repository of university junk metal (old or busted file cabinets/shelves/desks/chairs, clipped U-locks + department store bikes, shopping carts, etc.)
This was just sitting there
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Old 02-05-13, 12:12 PM   #8960
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I'd love to let the OA magic work for me, but completely stripping the frame would take quite a bit of work too. If it was just the fork it would be easy...

Some searching has me thinking I'll try the aluminum foil method. Don't worry, I'll be gentle, and will start underneath the bottom bracket or somewhere else out of sight to test. Don't hate me if this ends up on the "vintage mountain bikes with drop bars" thread - I promise I'll keep all the original parts!
I don't know, maybe it is just me, but detail stripping a bike down to the frame is a 30-minute job. Building it back up carefully is a little more labor-intensive of course.

If the rust on the chrome merits it I figure just strip it -otherwise just leave it...
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Old 02-05-13, 12:15 PM   #8961
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144BCD in box
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Old 02-05-13, 12:19 PM   #8962
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I live in a part of Cambridge between Harvard and MIT. While walking my dog the other day, we passed a vacant lot that is sort of a repository of university junk metal (old or busted file cabinets/shelves/desks/chairs, clipped U-locks + department store bikes, shopping carts, etc.)
This was just sitting there
Is it yours now? Those solar panels at least would be worth something, I'd think.
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Old 02-05-13, 12:23 PM   #8963
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the car would be super cool to use to go to work with!
the solar panels are worth money but flexable solar panels half life is quite short- like 10 years
it depends on a lot but that would be a cool score
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Old 02-05-13, 01:27 PM   #8964
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I'd love to let the OA magic work for me, but completely stripping the frame would take quite a bit of work too. If it was just the fork it would be easy...

Some searching has me thinking I'll try the aluminum foil method. Don't worry, I'll be gentle, and will start underneath the bottom bracket or somewhere else out of sight to test. Don't hate me if this ends up on the "vintage mountain bikes with drop bars" thread - I promise I'll keep all the original parts!
I'd suggest a metal polish that contains OA. I use Noxon 7 from the local auto parts store (I've also seen it at Ace Hardware and others,) fantastic stuff for chrome and other metals.
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Old 02-05-13, 01:37 PM   #8965
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Barkeeper's friend works well for spot jobs. It's got OA in it too.
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Old 02-05-13, 02:55 PM   #8966
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I don't know, maybe it is just me, but detail stripping a bike down to the frame is a 30-minute job. Building it back up carefully is a little more labor-intensive of course.

.
+1 I strip down every bike I touch when I first obtain it. +1 30 minute job, with a lot of benefits. It gives me a chance to closely inspect the inside of the frame, bottom bracket and headset. I am replacing cables and housings, so they get cut off. Most of the time, the chain goes too (keep the bolt cutters handy to reduce wear and tear on my chain tool). Its also the best way to really, completely, clean the frame, do any touch up painting, or whatever. I've found some surprising issues, like the bike I had with zero external rust, but significant internal rust.

The rebuild obviously takes more time, but most of it I do anyway. Its easier to clean derailleurs, brake calipers, etc., when everything is off the bike.
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Old 02-05-13, 03:09 PM   #8967
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+1 I strip down every bike I touch when I first obtain it. +1 30 minute job, with a lot of benefits. It gives me a chance to closely inspect the inside of the frame, bottom bracket and headset. I am replacing cables and housings, so they get cut off. Most of the time, the chain goes too (keep the bolt cutters handy to reduce wear and tear on my chain tool). Its also the best way to really, completely, clean the frame, do any touch up painting, or whatever. I've found some surprising issues, like the bike I had with zero external rust, but significant internal rust.

The rebuild obviously takes more time, but most of it I do anyway. Its easier to clean derailleurs, brake calipers, etc., when everything is off the bike.
just asking, how may bikes you flip a year?

my best was 30 a year-made 7k that summer.
hope i never do that again-too much work for too little money.
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Old 02-05-13, 03:19 PM   #8968
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+1 I strip down every bike I touch when I first obtain it. +1 30 minute job, with a lot of benefits. It gives me a chance to closely inspect the inside of the frame, bottom bracket and headset. I am replacing cables and housings, so they get cut off. Most of the time, the chain goes too (keep the bolt cutters handy to reduce wear and tear on my chain tool). Its also the best way to really, completely, clean the frame, do any touch up painting, or whatever. I've found some surprising issues, like the bike I had with zero external rust, but significant internal rust.

The rebuild obviously takes more time, but most of it I do anyway. Its easier to clean derailleurs, brake calipers, etc., when everything is off the bike.

+1 again

New bearings, new grease, new cables and housings, new bar tape or grips.

Clean rims, lube nipples and tension/true, new rimstrap or tape, new tires, refurb tube (ream & chase stem threads,) Remove and inspect/clean Freewheel/cassette, rebuild hubs w/ new bearings & grease.

Disassemble brakes, polish pivots, grease, reassemble. New brake shoes.

Disassemble FD & RD, clean, lube.

Inspect frame, OA if necessary & treat with rust preventative, hone seat tube, chase/face BB, head tube. Polish frame with Scratch-X, wax liberally.

Rebuild bike from ground up.

Sure, it's an all-day job -but it's worth it. When you are done you have a like-new bike again.

I do this to every bike that I flip, and to my own bikes every year or three if they are getting ridden regularly. I don't like to ride poorly-maintained junk. I won't put a BlackHeronBikes sticker on any bike I sell that doesn't get this full treatment.
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Old 02-05-13, 03:23 PM   #8969
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Is it yours now? Those solar panels at least would be worth something, I'd think.
The photovoltaic cells are gone. That is just the bare carbon where the cells were attached. It is pretty much just a carbon shell with the chair. No cockpit, wheels, steering, etc..
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Old 02-05-13, 03:25 PM   #8970
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I don't know.

Just because something is sitting unattended and unlocked on private property doesn't mean it is anyone's to take who happens along past it. Where I come from that is still called stealing.
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Old 02-05-13, 03:42 PM   #8971
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I don't know.

Just because something is sitting unattended and unlocked on private property doesn't mean it is anyone's to take who happens along past it. Where I come from that is still called stealing.
where i come from, removing trash dumped on vacant lots is called decreasing blight


it probably wouldn't be too hard to find out who illegally dumped that there since their website is clearly visible.. mitsolar.com - gosolar@mit.edu

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Old 02-05-13, 04:01 PM   #8972
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where i come from, removing trash dumped on vacant lots is called decreasing blight


it probably wouldn't be too hard to find out who illegally dumped that there since their website is clearly visible.. mitsolar.com - gosolar@mit.edu
Illegally dumped?

Are you an EPA lawyer or a cop now?

Perhaps you should look into who owns this "abandoned property" before throwing around terms like "illegally dumping" when it could very well just be the school storing their crap on their own property.

"better call the cops" indeed.

We have a word in the English language for people who think anything not nailed down is theirs...
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Old 02-05-13, 04:09 PM   #8973
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^

"am i cop"? dude in case you forgot, you were the first to start with the accusations of criminal activity.. perhaps YOU should look into who owns the property!

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Old 02-05-13, 04:52 PM   #8974
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The photovoltaic cells are gone. That is just the bare carbon where the cells were attached. It is pretty much just a carbon shell with the chair. No cockpit, wheels, steering, etc..
That's how this canoe started out... http://www.steamcar.net/stanley/fastest.pdf
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Old 02-05-13, 04:54 PM   #8975
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Acab
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