1 inch fork problem
#1
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1 inch fork problem
Got an old chrome 1" fork that I've out on a nice old frame, trouble is, I can't get it to tighten correctly. It's got the old cup and ball race, with the big nut on top. I tighten it until it;s right, but it still moves slightly when the brake is on. If I tighten it further, to get rid of the movement, it's far too tight, and I can feel the bearings grind. I can;t figure it out. The bearings are the right size (well, I think they are - they are the caged type, and fit), and the race on the fork fits snug.
Anyone got any ideas?
Anyone got any ideas?
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There are experts here that can help. I only know that when you get to tightening down the headset, work in 1/8 to 1/4 turn increments, and generally you'll be OK. There's usually a point where it "seats" and the play is greatly reduced, then fine adjustments only. Is this being done on the rack or the ground?
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You have to be sure everything matches up, from the race that sits on the fork crown to the bottom headtube race to the top head tube race to the top cone. Things might look like they're mating, but if they weren't designed to mate in the first place, you'll have play. It's worth trying loose bearings first to see if that fixes the problem, however.
Neal
Neal
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If that^^^ doesn't work, you should have the headset overhauled and examined by a professional bike mechanic. The races may be pitted and need replacing (new headset). But I can't diagnose the condition from here.
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Thanks for that. Would buying a new threaded headset (cups and all) do the trick? I can pick one up for £8.00. Sounds like starti ng from scratch might be a good place to start.
#6
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Another possibility is that the headtube races and/or crown race aren't all completely parallel. Make sure the steer tube isn't bent, check the headtube ends to make sure they are faced correctly and check the fork crown to make sure it's been faced and that the crown race is installed correctly.
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There are many dimensions to a headset. You need to assure that the cups fit correctly (press fit) into the headtube, that the fork race fits correctly on the fork, and that the stack height can be accommodated with the existing fork threads. Sometimes the data will be printed on the parts, otherwise you'll need some way to measure these dimensions. A good bike shop will help.
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How many bearings in the cages? I once tried using cages that were designed to have only 5 or 6 bearings per cage if you can believe it and once put together had the same problem you're describing. Try installing loose ball bearings if you have em handy in the headset -basically as many as you can fit per race, then take one out).
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Agreed on loose bearings. I always pitch the cages and re-pack with such. And yes to a good bike shop for helping with a new headset - if you go that way. I'd look into a Tange Levin headset and see if that will fit what you've got (bike shop). They are more than 8 pounds, but excellent quality and lasts forever.
#10
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I installed the headset caged bearings in the wrong orientation once (twice if you count my brother-in-laws bike). The headset was always too loose or too tight, never just right.
After I had it replaced, the mechanic told me what I had done wrong.
After I had it replaced, the mechanic told me what I had done wrong.
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Thanks for the input, chaps. I ended up getting a new threaded 1inch headset for £7.00. I took all the old bits off and replaced them with the new, and bingo, no more loose fork.
Thanks for the help.
All the best.
Thanks for the help.
All the best.