What year is this Nishiki? And is it worth it?
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What year is this Nishiki? And is it worth it?
Hey everyone, I'm looking for a road bike and found a local craigslist ad for a Nishiki road bike. From the pictures, it seems like it's a Custom Sport, and I'm thinking it's a pre-80's model, but I'm not sure. Anyone know any specifics on this bike? And do you think it's a good deal?
Much appreciated.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb...398283844.html
Much appreciated.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb...398283844.html
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I have no idea what it's worth, but as a point of reference, i paid $120 for a Nishiki Olympic (1980s) in good working condition a few years ago. The bars had been replaced with Nitto moustache bars. It's been a great bike.
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It looks like a late 70s/early 80s model. One step above the lowest model, the Sport. The asking price is about $20 more than when it was new. Steel rims, nutted hubs.
Is is worth it? Depends what you want to do with it, and if it fits. It looks like it's in great shape. It would make a nice campus/short distance commuter bike, but not a fast, sporty road bike for longer rides, IMO.
Is is worth it? Depends what you want to do with it, and if it fits. It looks like it's in great shape. It would make a nice campus/short distance commuter bike, but not a fast, sporty road bike for longer rides, IMO.
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Looks like its in really good shape. I thinks its a late 70s. mid level bike. Hopefully those are alloy rims. In LA thats seems like a fair price,for your first road bike you cant go wrong. Just my opinion.
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Looks more like an '83 as suggested (give or take) than a pre-1980, I've a very similar bike and occassionally enjoy riding it. The bike you've posted is Hi-Steel with average components befitting a slightly below mid-level bike. It's a very nice bike in even nicer shape. Nishikis were painted and finished really nicely, yours is no exception. it has steel wheels which suit the bike fine.
Flandry's Olympic is a level or so up from yours so at $120 his bike was a "better" deal all else being equal. The price seems a tad high frankly speaking. I spent less than that on the one I own. Bear in mind that you've no freight to pay. Just as frankly, I would say that ive spent more on 'better" bikes bikes in poor condition. Prices vary SO much. The bike's appeal and fit trumps all. DO note the serial #, etc. t-mar can ID it further as well as add the particulars to the forums data-base. You could in fact do worse, not a bad choice AT ALL.
Flandry's Olympic is a level or so up from yours so at $120 his bike was a "better" deal all else being equal. The price seems a tad high frankly speaking. I spent less than that on the one I own. Bear in mind that you've no freight to pay. Just as frankly, I would say that ive spent more on 'better" bikes bikes in poor condition. Prices vary SO much. The bike's appeal and fit trumps all. DO note the serial #, etc. t-mar can ID it further as well as add the particulars to the forums data-base. You could in fact do worse, not a bad choice AT ALL.
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Thanks for the help. I'm going to check it out later this afternoon to get a better look and to see how the fit it. As for the price, we'll see about talking it down. But I agree, the bike looks to be in solid shape.
Another question. I'm 230lbs. Would this bike support me?
Another question. I'm 230lbs. Would this bike support me?
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My initial reaction is circa 1980, but I'd need more info to confirm. A Custom Sport circa 1983 would have had the ARX derailleurs, which these obviously are not. The 1978 appears identical with the expception of chromed forks ends, hence my 1980 estimate. Cuiriously, it appears to have modern, resin, replacement pedals.
While an entry model, it does appear to be in excellent condtion and would make a nice commuter or recreational bicycle.
As for price, that would be very near original price. You certainly wouldn't get that much for it in my region, regardless of the condition. However, I imagine LA is a very high priced market. It might be a fair price, but I really don't have enough knowledge of the market to make a valid comment.
If you purchase the bicycle, or even go to see it, I would appreciate the serial number and major component models for the database. Serial number should be Kyxxxxx format on underside of bottom shell, where y is letter indicating last digit of year (i.e. A = 1, B = 2, C =3, etc.) or Gmmyy format on rear dropout (where mm = month, yy = year). TIA. Good luck.
While an entry model, it does appear to be in excellent condtion and would make a nice commuter or recreational bicycle.
As for price, that would be very near original price. You certainly wouldn't get that much for it in my region, regardless of the condition. However, I imagine LA is a very high priced market. It might be a fair price, but I really don't have enough knowledge of the market to make a valid comment.
If you purchase the bicycle, or even go to see it, I would appreciate the serial number and major component models for the database. Serial number should be Kyxxxxx format on underside of bottom shell, where y is letter indicating last digit of year (i.e. A = 1, B = 2, C =3, etc.) or Gmmyy format on rear dropout (where mm = month, yy = year). TIA. Good luck.
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Sold one really similar to this one earlier this year for $110. And it took a long time to sell.
But I do not live in LA. Steel rims, stem shifters, turkey levers, all signs of low end/bottom end bike. But this one is very clean. So it depends on your budget and what type of bike you want.
But I do not live in LA. Steel rims, stem shifters, turkey levers, all signs of low end/bottom end bike. But this one is very clean. So it depends on your budget and what type of bike you want.
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That is at least the going rate for a good, clean bike in ready-to-ride condition. In your (or my) area, you'd have to get lucky to do better.
That being said - I doubt that bike is properly tuned or has been properly overhauled. Why? The bar tape looks horrible, and the rear brake cable/housing isn't right. In addition, the shifter housings and the brake housings don't match. I'll even bet money that the housings are cracked (the bend radius' aren't smooth), and the exposed sections of the cables are rusted. So, check it over VERY carefully before dropping the dough. Also, I'll bet there is more cosmetic damage than is visible in the picture - for example, the right fork blade looks heavily scratched, and the "Nishiki" on the down tube looks pretty beat up.
If it passes inspection, fits, and you like it, negotiate your best and buy it with no regrets. If most of what I surmised above is in fact true, it's no more than a $50-$75 bike, assuming you want/are able to do the work yourself.
That being said - I doubt that bike is properly tuned or has been properly overhauled. Why? The bar tape looks horrible, and the rear brake cable/housing isn't right. In addition, the shifter housings and the brake housings don't match. I'll even bet money that the housings are cracked (the bend radius' aren't smooth), and the exposed sections of the cables are rusted. So, check it over VERY carefully before dropping the dough. Also, I'll bet there is more cosmetic damage than is visible in the picture - for example, the right fork blade looks heavily scratched, and the "Nishiki" on the down tube looks pretty beat up.
If it passes inspection, fits, and you like it, negotiate your best and buy it with no regrets. If most of what I surmised above is in fact true, it's no more than a $50-$75 bike, assuming you want/are able to do the work yourself.
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Last edited by bigbossman; 09-29-09 at 02:53 PM.