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Old 01-26-09, 08:21 PM   #1
social suicide
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Cheap? Safe Chrome Cleaner????????

I used some cooktop cleaner on some Sears three speed fenders. WOW! I have been using 0000 steel wool for this sort of thing - no lectures please, I don't have anything of value but this stuff really shines it up! It is probably a polishing compound like stuff what do you think? I couldn't see any scratches. Also what is known about a sachs torpedo 515 hub with the coaster brake? any good?
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Old 01-26-09, 11:59 PM   #2
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What brand of cooktop cleaner did you use?
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Old 01-27-09, 12:59 AM   #3
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I scrub rusty chrome with wd40 and aluminum foil. Easier on my soft hands than steel wool, heh. Easier on the chrome too. Doesn't get much cheaper. You can even use olive oil or whatever. Everybody has got foil and oil in the kitchen.

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Old 01-27-09, 07:39 AM   #4
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The cooktop cleaner does work, and it's safe. It's an abrasive, more than a chemical.

The cheapest is probably WalMart's Rust Remover, 4.34 a bottle, like a jelly. Not an abrasive.
Just follow the directions and don't leave it on too long. I'd suggest gloves, too.
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Old 01-27-09, 08:23 AM   #5
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I still think Oxalic acid (wood bleach) is the best stuff got chrome and steel rust removal.
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Old 01-27-09, 08:43 AM   #6
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Choreboy copper cleaner for pans (available at grocery stores) is much better than steel wool. I use it with some wd-40. If you can find it - oxalic acid is better. For chrome polish - I picked up a bottle from restoration hardware that works pretty well (if they still have it ->$15). There's often a thread on this - and opinions vary. Bottom line is for initial clean, this is good - but if you use an abrasive, each time you apply - it could remove a layer(s) of chrome. Once you get it clean - don't keep hitting it with an abrasive.
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Old 01-27-09, 09:21 AM   #7
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For general cleaning, many of the general household cleaners - Joy, Fantastik, 409, etc. do a good job. You won't get rust off with them, but they do make a lot of headway in a short time period.

For rust - definitely oxalic acid. It can be re-used over, and over and over. Good stuff.
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Old 01-27-09, 10:14 AM   #8
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I scrub rusty chrome with wd40 and aluminum foil. Easier on my soft hands than steel wool, heh. Easier on the chrome too. Doesn't get much cheaper. You can even use olive oil or whatever. Everybody has got foil and oil in the kitchen.
I've had good results with WD40 and synthetic steel wool (the gray Scotchbrite extra fine grade) on both chrome and aluminum. Also easy on the hands. What made me try WD-40 in the first place? Just a wild hunch.
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Old 01-27-09, 10:19 AM   #9
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The cooktop cleaner does work, and it's safe. It's an abrasive, more than a chemical.

The cheapest is probably WalMart's Rust Remover, 4.34 a bottle, like a jelly. Not an abrasive.
Just follow the directions and don't leave it on too long. I'd suggest gloves, too.
The Wal Mart stuff sounds like Naval Jelly.
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Old 01-27-09, 11:53 AM   #10
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If you just need/want to make metal parts shiny-as-new, try Simichrome. It's from Germany, but available in the USA. I just polished some 1982 Campy Record hubs, and they now look like new. Not much effort. You should wear gloves as it's a skin-irritant. Google will find a source.
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Old 01-27-09, 12:32 PM   #11
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I've had good results with WD40 and synthetic steel wool (the gray Scotchbrite extra fine grade) on both chrome and aluminum. Also easy on the hands. What made me try WD-40 in the first place? Just a wild hunch.
No reason it has to be WD40. Take your greasy old foil after you bake a ham or roast or fish or whatever and ball it up. Don't toss it out until those fenders and stays are done. The oil/grease is mostly there to lube the metal to metal contact in the non-pitted areas. The foil will do the scrubbing off of surface rust and little bits of it will fill in the pits and make it look nice. Aluminum is softer than steel, so less scratch worries than with wool. This only works for light surface rust of course.. the meaty smell while you ride is the nice bonus with this variation on the oil/foil method.
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Old 01-27-09, 10:14 PM   #12
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The Wal Mart stuff sounds like Naval Jelly.
Can't be Naval.
It works.

Zing.
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Old 01-27-09, 10:23 PM   #13
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... the meaty smell while you ride is the nice bonus with this variation on the oil/foil method.
and if the dogs chased you before they will probably chase you a lot longer and with more determination to actually catch you.
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Old 01-28-09, 03:21 AM   #14
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I've always used Turtle Wax chrome polish. It's only mildly abrasive, removes light surface rust, and leaves a glossy shine. It's dirt cheap, and available at any auto parts store.

After polishing, I apply a coat or two of quality automotive wax (McGuire's, etc.) to add to the shine and prevent future rust.

For those of you who have old cars, Turtle Wax chrome polish can be used to renew red and yellow turn signal and brake lenses, and it also works well to remove haze from plexiglass.
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Old 01-28-09, 04:30 PM   #15
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No reason it has to be WD40. Take your greasy old foil after you bake a ham or roast or fish or whatever and ball it up. Don't toss it out until those fenders and stays are done. The oil/grease is mostly there to lube the metal to metal contact in the non-pitted areas. The foil will do the scrubbing off of surface rust and little bits of it will fill in the pits and make it look nice. Aluminum is softer than steel, so less scratch worries than with wool. This only works for light surface rust of course.. the meaty smell while you ride is the nice bonus with this variation on the oil/foil method.



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Old 01-28-09, 04:51 PM   #16
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Hey now, the topic *does* state "cheap and safe." Doesn't get much cheaper/safer than recycled non-petrochemical kitchen leftovers.. and it works! Yes dogs could present a problem however..
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Old 01-29-09, 10:17 AM   #17
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Can't be Naval.
It works.

Zing.
OK, now it's on like Donkey Kong

Actually, no Sailor can compete with a Marine when it comes to shiney objects, especially Submarine Sailors. We're really good at waxing our torpedos though.

Wait, that came out wrong.
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