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Old 02-03-09, 08:08 PM   #26
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Bravo! That was an excellent how-to with pertinent info. Just so I can contribute SOMEthing: I use a nice solid scrap of wood (big dowel works nicely) cut to fit (100mm) and just a couple of "bullet" self-tapping screws, thru flat washers that bear against the forkends, and into the wood...tight, strong fork bracing that costs me only pennies...and only takes a #2 Phillips to remove.
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Old 02-03-09, 09:37 PM   #27
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I can say from experience that Jim "walks the talk": the frame he shipped me was exceedingly well protected just as he describes (although my purchase was frame only, not a complete bike, but you get the idea.) It made me work, though, getting it undressed for action. (One of those "Candy is dandy but liquor is quicker" moments....)

Thanks Jim, and really sorry about your Peugeot.
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Old 02-03-09, 10:08 PM   #28
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Terrific write-up, thanks for sharing!!


bill

Follow-up: On the scrap wood as drop out protection, I have used 2x2 lumber with good success. You can buy an 8 foot 2x2 cheap.

Last edited by wrk101; 10-19-11 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 02-04-09, 11:02 AM   #29
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Nice write up and photo essay, close to how I packed and shipped a Raleigh Comp several years ago.

Those Madone boxes are nice, the shop I help at sets them aside for when customers want to ship a bike off for a tour.

Have any of you gone one step further and removed the driveside crank and chainrings and shipped with the rear wheel removed to further reduce the box size? I'm giving some thought to this. The height and length of the bike box should be able to get almost down to frame only dimensions and then the width would be wider. I'm probably just sidestepping to a Madone-box format.

And one does have to consider the person receiving the bike at the other end of the shipment. I think I posted this elsewhere, but with the Raleigh I included notes on where parts went and how things were routed to help make it easier for the receiver to reassemble the bike.
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Old 02-04-09, 11:12 AM   #30
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Bravo! That was an excellent how-to with pertinent info. Just so I can contribute SOMEthing: I use a nice solid scrap of wood (big dowel works nicely) cut to fit (100mm) and just a couple of "bullet" self-tapping screws, thru flat washers that bear against the forkends, and into the wood...tight, strong fork bracing that costs me only pennies...and only takes a #2 Phillips to remove.
Same here, I have found this to work great.
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Old 02-04-09, 11:12 AM   #31
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Many thanks. I have a frame arriving today (fingers crossed).

Here is another resource on packing:
http://chainwheeldrive.com/page.cfm?PageID=286
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Old 02-04-09, 12:26 PM   #32
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Have any of you gone one step further and removed the driveside crank and chainrings and shipped with the rear wheel removed to further reduce the box size? I'm giving some thought to this. The height and length of the bike box should be able to get almost down to frame only dimensions and then the width would be wider. I'm probably just sidestepping to a Madone-box format.

And one does have to consider the person receiving the bike at the other end of the shipment. I think I posted this elsewhere, but with the Raleigh I included notes on where parts went and how things were routed to help make it easier for the receiver to reassemble the bike.
Most of the shiiping company box size limits are 103" and 130" Unless you can get a box under 103" it doesnt save any money therefore it doesnt make any sense to dis-assemble any more than you need to. Although I haven't tried I'm not sure you could get complete bike in a 103" box by removing the wheels, crankset and fork. I'm sure the Madone boxes are right up there at 130" but rather than being 54"L 8"W and 30"H they're probably more like 48" 12" and 30".

I do take into consideration the person I'm selling to. Last August I sold my person Klein Q-Carbon to a young lady in Hawaii. I sent her a detailed e-mail with re-assembly instruction. All she needed was a 5mm allen key and something to cut the zip ties.

For the Cannondale all the new owner will need are 5 and 6mm allen keys and a tie cutter. Literaly all he'll need to do is install the stem/bars, attach the front caliper, attach the rear derailleur, install the seat/seatpost and install the front. wheels. It should need NO adjustments!!!
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Old 02-04-09, 01:05 PM   #33
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Same here, I have found this to work great.
he said dowel, not twig you found in your back yard
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Old 02-04-09, 06:54 PM   #34
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Thank you for the pictures. I have never shipped a whole bike-I saved them for use as a reference when I do!
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Old 02-04-09, 08:14 PM   #35
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Excellent advice, Jim.

My main input is: ASK the buyer if he can assemble. The more you disassemble, the less chance of damage, in my opinion.

I've shipped a mint Pinarello, and took it apart to frame set with BB attached only, plus pieces, in a bigger box than I needed. I used PVC pipe across the box at each corner and every 1/3 of the area. It was shrink-wrapped, padded as Jim shows, then the box was filled with packing peanuts. It arrived 100% great, but took him 2 hours to unpack and clean up. Then he had to assemble.
Probably a little overkill, but for that kind of money, he needed it undamaged.

I've also tried a method taught me by Arturo Garza, a bike flipper/collector in Dallas. It's cheaper because the box size is smaller:

Tear down to frame set with BB, rear caliper, FD still on the bike. Turn the fork around backwards.

Get the widest box you can find, not necessarily tall or long. Cut the box length just longer than the frame set.

Pad if you want, but you can insert the frame as is, then flank it with the wheels, half deflated, and pad between them, then use ties. You should be able to pull the frame/whees out as one.

Pack the small parts in small boxes and strategically place them and use them for packing.

I remove the bar/stem/wrap/levers/cables/housing as one unit, and "fold" it into the box. It can be done, be patient. Same with the saddle/post combo.

Then slide the cut off end back over the large end, tape like crazy. I've shipped 5 that way, 4 under $40, and 2 of those were measured at UPS. The one over $40 was at USPS, $42.55

You can use plastic grocery bags and the Sunday paper, wad it up into balls, stuff them in the bags, tie them off and stuff them into the box as packing. Not as good as bubble wrap or a foam blanket, but they work.

I ask LBS whenever I'm in there if I can have the fork/stay protectors and any axle caps, too. I've also used cheap plastic cups (not disposable kind) I get 6/$1 from the Dollar store. one on each fork/stay end (4) and cut them down and use them over the axle ends.

Day in/day out, Jim's post is the way to go.
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Old 02-04-09, 10:44 PM   #36
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he said dowel, not twig you found in your back yard
hey, I was trying to get it out ASAP, it was more like a branch, and it worked great!
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Old 02-13-09, 02:34 PM   #37
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JIM-
looks like everything worked out alright becasue the seller says he refunded your money fully, and then relisted the frame as a freebie when you bid on the fork!
http://cgi.ebay.com/CHROME-FORK-w-FR...3%3A1|294%3A50
sorry about the outcome, some day you'll find that perfect bike again, and maybe it will be even cheaper
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Old 02-13-09, 03:01 PM   #38
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Well, the shipping companies must love you over this one...

-Kurt
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Old 02-14-09, 12:37 PM   #39
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JIM-
looks like everything worked out alright becasue the seller says he refunded your money fully, and then relisted the frame as a freebie when you bid on the fork!
http://cgi.ebay.com/CHROME-FORK-w-FR...3%3A1|294%3A50
sorry about the outcome, some day you'll find that perfect bike again, and maybe it will be even cheaper
It did work out OK and I am riding a cheaper bike....essentialy its a $150 Schwinn Circuit full Dura Ace 8-speed STI.
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Old 02-14-09, 09:54 PM   #40
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Just want to say Jim practices what he preaches.

I was lucky enough to buy a vintage Rocky Mountain from him a while back and I have to say I was damn impressed when I opened the box...great packing job just like the pictures (just wish I had a use for all the zip ties I cut off it, lol.)

Thanks again Jim.



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Old 02-15-09, 05:19 AM   #41
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Maybe a basic question. I use a soft bike bag to transport my bike on vacation (top of car). Like the case with the first box, the seat tube sticks out. I take off the rear wheel. Now I have more width with a bike bag, so it's easier to be creative.

I assume that you always leave the rear wheel on for a reason. Is there an option to remove both wheels - pack around it as if just shipping the frame? Maybe sandwiching the frame with both wheels may not be a good idea...Just curious.
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Old 02-15-09, 06:55 AM   #42
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Jim,
Just a note of thanks for writing this thread. Much appreciated!
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Old 03-31-09, 03:57 PM   #43
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So I couldn't get my bike to fit in the box, struggled and struggled, finally I gave up and went to bed. This morning I found this thread, and wanted to thank the OP. Packaging the front wheel like you did appears to have resolved my issues. Hopefully should finish the packing job later today

Thanks for the detailed pictures and step-by-step instructions, really really helpful!
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Old 03-31-09, 04:14 PM   #44
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Hopefully the mods will make this one a sticky. Maybe put it in the valuation area as this section is already pretty full of stickies.

Just one person's opinion.
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Old 03-31-09, 05:02 PM   #45
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I stuck a link to it in the C&V resources thread
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Old 03-31-09, 06:35 PM   #46
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awesome! thanks for that, I learned some things.

One thing I have done is make a fork reinforcement out of a piece of thick cardboard that is about 18 inches long rolled up and then taped to hold it from unravelling. I have tried to crush it, and it is very strong and cheap.

Vanilla Bikes in Portland ship with a wooden dowel in the fork with bolts coming in from each side. I saw a photo once, now cant.
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Old 03-31-09, 06:51 PM   #47
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So I couldn't get my bike to fit in the box, struggled and struggled, finally I gave up and went to bed. This morning I found this thread, and wanted to thank the OP. Packaging the front wheel like you did appears to have resolved my issues. Hopefully should finish the packing job later today

Thanks for the detailed pictures and step-by-step instructions, really really helpful!
When you pack it its imperative that there's no metal to metal contact. When your done shake and listen. If you hear anything investigate and take appropriate measure as neccesary.

A few examples:

1. I'll often zip tie a cable to the spokes to get it out of the way so it doesnt hit paint. Its no big deal if something like that is making noise.

2. Stem bolts. If its making noise its because its loose. Either tape both ends or tighten it up tight. It will work loose if you dont.

Use your best judgement. Depending on what your packing you may not need to go to the extremes I did in regards to wrapping every tube with foam. The bike I packed was* a mint 'like new' Cannondale with only 1 or 2 rides, if that, on the clock.
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Old 03-31-09, 06:53 PM   #48
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awesome! thanks for that, I learned some things.

One thing I have done is make a fork reinforcement out of a piece of thick cardboard that is about 18 inches long rolled up and then taped to hold it from unravelling. I have tried to crush it, and it is very strong and cheap.

Vanilla Bikes in Portland ship with a wooden dowel in the fork with bolts coming in from each side. I saw a photo once, now cant.
My only reservation with wood is that I've seen them break. Granted it was back in the day when it was simple piece wedged into the fork ends. I'd imagine a big wooden dowel is stronger.
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Old 09-05-11, 07:19 AM   #49
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Here's a frameset w/ parts I did.....again, everythnig is relative ot the size of the frameset/bike and the box its going in:









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Old 09-05-11, 07:20 AM   #50
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