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Need Schwinn Voyager 11.8 hub info

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Need Schwinn Voyager 11.8 hub info

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Old 02-04-09, 09:48 AM
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Need Schwinn Voyager 11.8 hub info

I have a 12 speed Schwinn Voyager 11.8 made in Oct 1980, i brought it new in May 1983. For the Past 2 months the rear hub has started to bind. I took it to a bike shop here in Las Vegas, their idea to fix it was to replace the wheel. It has a Araya 27" 1 1/4 rim and i kind of like them. No one ever said that maybe the hub could be replaced. I'am thinking that i can replace the hub and use the cassette already there. My question is, is the cassette on the Voyager on a threaded hub? Also is the size of the hub 126mm (is 126mm pretty much a standard size?). I found a hub i think maybe a replacement, HU 119 Quando freewheel rear, 36 hole, 126mm for 5-6-7 speeds, threaded.

https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/hubs.html

Someone with a little more know how than me can tell me if this will work.

The cassette is a Shimano Altus 6 speed Gold and the hub is also a Shimano.
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Old 02-04-09, 04:39 PM
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First, if it was mine I would just take it apart and clean and lube it. Maybe also replace the bearings, Second, the bike doesn't use a cassette but uses a threaded free wheel and is probably 126 mm wide. That means the hub from Harris should work but is an expense I wouldn't get into. Third find a bike shop that actually repairs bikes or better yet do the work yourself. Roger
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Old 02-04-09, 05:05 PM
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I hate to disagree with Roger, but the specs for both the '80 and '81 Voyageur 11.8 call out a Shimano alloy small flange freehub with QR rear hub, and a Shimano Altus 6-speed cassette (not freewheel).

Schwinn was still using the term "freewheel" to describe the recently introduced freehub and cassette.

https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1980_10.html

https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1981_08.html

The Altus 6-speed cassette is p/n 27 540 (Figure 3) in the catalog page below:

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Old 02-04-09, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by spytheweb
I found a hub i think maybe a replacement, HU 119 Quando freewheel rear, 36 hole, 126mm for 5-6-7 speeds, threaded.
If you go that route it would make sense to use new spokes as well. The problem with replacing the hub and spokes is that it cost about as much as a new wheel, unless you do the work yourself. So I think your options are to see if you can rehabilitate the existing hub, or just replace the wheel with a new one. I'm sure people on this forum and the mechanics forum can walk you through trying to rehab the existing hub. I'd give that a shot first before you purchase anything.
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Old 02-04-09, 09:22 PM
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You are as always correct Scooper. Next time I will go into the basement and look at my 11.8 before answering. Just did the yearly check over on mine to keep myself busy and thought it was a freewheel. I still think the OP problem is a hub in need of cleaning, greasing and adjusting the hub. I know when I got mine the grease in it was like concrete. It amazes me the number of shops that stay in business and don't do repair work. It is a sad state our country is getting to. Roger
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Old 02-04-09, 10:01 PM
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Roger, I completely agree. Most shops today are much more interested in selling you a new hub (or wheel!) than cleaning and lubricating the one you have.

It's shameful.
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Old 02-05-09, 04:55 AM
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The other question the OP asks is about spacing. I found a set of Araya rims & Shimano hubs wheels at the dump, with the rear equipped with the early Shimano Uniglide freehub, and a 6 speed cassette. The spacing is actually less then 120mm--- instead about 118-119mm. The wheel slips into my '62 Continental frame with room to spare!

Several of the advantages of the Uniglide system include; the ability to remove the cassettee, easily disassemble the cassette, clean the individual cogs, and then build any gear ratios you want. It also provided wider spacing for the cones, thus making a stronger axle.

The replacement hub you found at Harris is about 6mm larger then you need. There are lots of folks who can describe "cold setting" their rear stays to accommodate the wider spacing. But I'd try to disassemble the hub, check the cones, replace the bearings if they are dull and not bright and shiny, and then re-grease. The expense to do so is a couple of cone wrenches ($10), grease (waterproof wheel bearing at the hardware store, $4), and possibly bearings ($2). Since the grease will re-pack 100s of hubs, and the cone wrenches will be used over and over again, you are really out very little money!

This Sheldon Brown Link tells you all you need to know about UniGlide!
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
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Old 02-11-09, 01:11 PM
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I like to thank everyone for their advice. What i have done and will do is, i ordered a new wheel and freewheel, when it gets here i will ride that while i try to repack my old wheel hub. I'am kind of looking forward to attempting this. If i can pull this off i'll have that much more pride in my bike. Thank everyone again.

Here is a picture of my bike.

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3355/...bd7a9d16fc.jpg

Last edited by spytheweb; 02-11-09 at 03:39 PM.
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