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  1. #1
    Member Suncoastbiker's Avatar
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    105 Uniglide hub repacking bearing problems grrrrr

    Ok so this weekend I've been tackling my Miyata 712, trying to get rid of all the old grease and replace it with some nioce gooey synthetic grease, front wheel bearings went no problem, bottom bracket no problem, rear wheel......there's a problem. I took my cassette off using 2 chainwhips and cleaned it right up, undid the rear axle to take the bearings out and get rid of this old dark brown sludge that was once grease and began reassembling everything. I can't seem to get the cone and outer nut to lock, the nut and cone came out of the freehub side and when I go to put it all back together again it keeps tightening up until the bearings are running too tight. I can't grab the cone with my cone whench because it's inside the recess created by the freehub assembly. Does anyone have any pointers or tips on how to tackle this? The bearing surface inside the hub is a little pitted as well, Should I just try and find a new hub and rear wheel? It's a 6 speed uniglide laced to Wolber Alpine rims I'd like to keep everything stock and matching if posible. Suggestions please

  2. #2
    WNG
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    The trick to adjusting the cones on a rear hub is to leave the freewheel/freehub side alone, and loosen the non-drive side nut and cone. Then you pull the axle out from the drive side. This leaves the cone/nut-axle spacing intact.
    Sounds like you disassembled the axle entirely. Simply tighten the drive side cone/nut first, taking into account the correct amount of exposed axle. Slide it in and adjust the cone/nut at the non-drive side.
    If the cup inside the freehub is pitted, a replacement freehub body is the easiest fix. If it's in the hub shell, then it's best to replace the hub. Shimano doesn't sell replacement cups.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  3. #3
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    The trick to adjusting the cones on a rear hub is to leave the freewheel/freehub side alone, and loosen the non-drive side nut and cone. Then you pull the axle out from the drive side. This leaves the cone/nut-axle spacing intact.
    +1 Always loosen the non drive side only, leave the cones in place on the drive side.

  4. #4
    Member Suncoastbiker's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys will try that next weekend

  5. #5
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suncoastbiker View Post
    next weekend
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

  6. #6
    Banned
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    Come on Jim, it's tough to find an extra 5 minutes during the week!

  7. #7
    Member Suncoastbiker's Avatar
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    Allright you guys, I'll give it a shot tonight after work.....jeeze what a bunch of keeners you are!!!

  8. #8
    WNG
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    Quote Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
    LOL!
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

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