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  1. #1
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    Coaster hub help (Mark IV, Schwinn Approved)

    Does anyone know how to disassemble a Mark IV coaster hub? I've gone through the Sturmey-Archer and Bendix sites online and don't find a match to my hub. A lot of them appear to be approached from the drive-side, usually by removing a circlip. My hub doesn't have a circlip that I can find. Some other hubs I saw have a brake arm on the left-hand side that lifts off after removing locknuts, etc. The brake arm on my hub won't budge.

    On my hub, there is a thick ring on the drive-side that has a single notch. I was thinking maybe a spanner of some sort may be needed to wrench it off.

    But, if anyone has experience with this hub, I'd appreciate hearing from you!

    Note: I cross-posted this in the mechanics forum.

  2. #2
    Senior Member kpug505's Avatar
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    Have you looked at what Sheldon had to say on the matter?
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html

    I've got some old manuals around here somewhere. If I find some instruction I'll snap pics and post them for you. Is your hub made by Bendix for Schwinn? Got a pic of it?
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
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  3. #3
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    I can tell you that the ring with a notch is, indeed, a lock ring, so put the opposite end of the hub in a vise and loosen that ring with a punch and hammer (or a very small lock-ring tool of you have one). I have seen coaster-brake hubs in which the sprocket was on a threaded driver, but you should be able to get the bits on one side loose in order to take apart the other side.

    Neal

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    Thanks, kpug and Neal! From Sheldon's site, I believe the hub is a Sturmey-Archer TCW iteration, but the drive-side end seems different from the diagrams I've come across. I'm going to try Neal's advice and see if I can get the lock ring off. Btw, any intuition whether or not it would be reverse threaded? I read on Sheldon's site that on some of the old English coaster-type hubs that had lockrings next to the sprocket, the lock ring would be reverse threaded so that if the sprocket were to start working loose, it would act to tighten the lock ring.

    Thanks for all the help!

  5. #5
    Senior Member kpug505's Avatar
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    TCW eh? Try Hadlands site then.....This link should help you out.
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
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  6. #6
    Senior Member kpug505's Avatar
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    Oh ya.......I hate to say it but the TCW has a reputation for sucking. If it is a TCW make sure you've got hand brakes as insurance!
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowRoller View Post
    Btw, any intuition whether or not it would be reverse threaded?
    Yeah, I was wondering that, too, as you described the set up. Perhaps see if you see any tell-tale wear on that lock-notches to see what direction they've been pounded in the past. Otherwise, if it's on the drive side, I'd assume it's likely left-hand threaded.

    Neal

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    Thanks you guys. As for the basic flaw with the TCW hub, I'm planning to install brakes, as I hope to move to a single-speed wheel once I find a donor. My work with the coaster hub is just to see if cleaning and greasing will bring it back to life for a while, before I find my donor rear wheel.

    As for the hub, the lock ring was the key, and it was reverse-threaded! I removed it tonight and have the hub disassembled on my bench. I wish it was already the weekend, as I want to spend some time cleaning it, then working on some spokes, before treating the hub and putting it all back together to see how it spins. Thanks again!

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