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Old 03-30-09, 09:59 PM   #1
jan nikolajsen
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Stuck!! Center-pull question.

How do I lead the brake cable for those Mafac's on this frame? The cable stop is the obvious issue.

It is for a 650b conversion. I know various forward thinking companies offer long reach side-pulls for these circumstances. Problem is I don't have the requisite $50-60, but I do have the Mafac's.

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Old 03-30-09, 10:11 PM   #2
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there IS a rear cable bit you can splice into the clamp gap , but you may be very constrained with the distance from stop-to-straddle...this triple triangle frame poses unique problems!
(this item is at icecyclesusa.com)
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File Type: jpg rear hanger.jpg (3.6 KB, 3 views)
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Old 03-30-09, 10:11 PM   #3
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Would this work?

http://www.oldbicyclejunk.com/store/...?productID=240

Or better yet:
http://www.oldbicyclejunk.com/store/...?productID=241
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Old 03-30-09, 10:21 PM   #4
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Thanks for the links. I have those hangers, but when I put them on the seatpost bolt the pull is almost 45 degrees off the centerline of the brakes, as viewed from the side. This creates lots of friction and a very weird load on the calipers. Not sustainable.

The stop somehow has to be placed 4-5" below the binder-bolt.
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Old 03-30-09, 10:58 PM   #5
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the best I can come up with is to devise some sort of clap on apparatus for the seat tube to use something like in the pic unworthy1 posted. perhaps using something along the lines of what they use to attatch coaster brake arms to the frame? Or maybe just go look around at a hardware store.
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Old 03-30-09, 11:00 PM   #6
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Are you absolutely stuck on centerpulls? If budget is a concern and you need serious reach....
Try these:


Tektro 800A

I have a pair on my 650B version and I was surprised at how nice they are for the low price of $18 plus shipping. Brand new! They're nutted though...
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Old 03-30-09, 11:01 PM   #7
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Center pulls on some mixte frames used a long straddle wire looped around the seat tube.
GT Bicycle frames with the similar triple triangle, also used a long wire for the cantilevers.
This only solves half the problem as you still need a suitable bolt on anchor somewhere between the stay caps. Possibly a single sided downtube cable stop.
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Old 03-30-09, 11:04 PM   #8
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or maybe use something like that downtube cable stop you posted in WTB only hang the hanger from it off of the seat tube through the bolt. Maybe you could eve rig something up with an old seat clamp
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Old 03-30-09, 11:12 PM   #9
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Old 03-30-09, 11:15 PM   #10
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rotharpunc, wow you just zipped out in the shop and quite possibly solved my issue. Impressed!
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Old 03-30-09, 11:52 PM   #11
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Or you could set the seatheight and then drill a hole through the seat tube on an angle with a threaded barrel adjuster on one side. Sounds crazy doesn't it? But if you have the seatheight set it's actually a very elegant solution. Do not laugh, I say a dekerf titanium SS cross bike that had the rear brake cable routed though the top tube and exited the back of the seat tube. The seat height had been selected and the seatpost drilled to allow it.

Actually, re examining the photo you could do the mixte thing and drill the TT and insert a barrel adjuster on an angle and have the yolk in front of the seat tube. Sounds crazy but I like it.
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Old 03-31-09, 12:13 AM   #12
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Or you could set the seat height and then drill a hole through the seat tube on an angle with a threaded barrel adjuster on one side.
This was actually my first thought before posting here, but I wasn't brave enough to expose such barbarism to the C&V crowd!! The only problem: the bike is my son's, and at 10 he's not done growing yet. So that seatpost will move..
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Old 03-31-09, 12:14 AM   #13
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I'd think someone would trade you a tectro for either the mafac or whatever is on there now
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Old 03-31-09, 12:43 AM   #14
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A tri-color Shimano 600 sidepull? Inexpensive dual-pivots off of eBay?

-Kurt
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Old 03-31-09, 06:44 AM   #15
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Jan,

How much reach do you need? I have an excellent set of Tektro long reach side pulls I'll trade. Recessed mounting. They are the ones on this bike:

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Old 03-31-09, 08:45 AM   #16
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Many thanks for the ideas and trade offers.

For quirky reasons I'll have to stick with the Mafac's, and rotharpunc's little gadget is what's gonna work.

The thing is, I'm setting up a set of low budget, lightweight touring bikes for the family, to be used on a possibly very long trip. For ease of on-the-road maintenance and to limit the tools and spares we have to carry, I want the components near identical across the board. The other two bikes already have Mafac's.

Dan, that's a fast looking Nishiki!

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Old 03-31-09, 09:05 AM   #17
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Many thanks for the ideas and trade offers.

For quirky reasons I'll have to stick with the Mafac's, and rotharpunc's little gadget is what's gonna work.

The thing is, I'm setting up a set of low budget, lightweight touring bikes for the family, to be used on a possibly very long trip. For ease of on-the-road maintenance and to limited the tools and spares we have to carry, I want the components near identical across the board. The other two bikes already have Mafac's.

Dan, that's a fast looking Nishiki!
Thank you. And you are welcome. I understand your plan and it makes sense to have identical setups.
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Old 03-31-09, 09:11 AM   #18
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I like this a lot!!! no holes, and it can get the straddle yoke into the right place!
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Old 03-31-09, 10:28 AM   #19
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I like the "rotharpunc cobbled-up" solution, too but I was reminded that there were a couple Mtn. bikes I have worked on in past that use a brazed-on noodle (just a steel tube) that was bent to wrap around the seat cluster and shoot the cable down to the canti hanger. It definitely would be more of a permanent fix and these tubes absolutely require a teflon liner or the cable binds, and you need to incorporate a stop for the housing since the Mtn. bikes had them brazed on the top tube...it could be just a ferrule in the front of the noodle.
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Old 03-31-09, 10:46 AM   #20
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Where do you plan to clamp the hanger? If you put it on the seat tube it looks like you won't have enough room to pull the straddle. But the clamp will be too large for the top tube and would require a longer straddle cable and block the pump peg.

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Old 03-31-09, 10:53 AM   #21
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Where do you plan to clamp the hanger? If you put it on the seat tube it looks like you won't have enough room to pull the straddle. But the clamp will be too large for the top tube and would require a longer straddle cable and block the pump peg.
+1.

That said, the hanger might slip under heavy braking loads without a tab on the frame.

Jan, I don't want to rain on your parade, but I think you're aiming for the impossible with this one. If Mafac standardization is an issue, you might want to look into getting an entirely different frame to work with.

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Old 03-31-09, 11:35 AM   #22
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I hate to say it too, but I gotta say +1 on what those guys are saying.

how about the surly version of a seatpost bolt cable hanger? Its much longer than the other ones

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=de...=30&SKU=BR9999



**edit** nevermind, that really wont solve the issue of the angle of the dangle.
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Old 03-31-09, 12:56 PM   #23
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After giving a good bit of thought to your dilemma, I may have come up with a workable solution. You could mount a stop in one "eye" (can't say that I've ever heard of anyone refer to specific parts of a centerpull caliper before) of the caliper. Then use something like a v-brake noodle or a rollamajig to route the cable through it, and anchor it to the opposite "eye." Effectively actuating it like a linear pull brake. That way you could have your Mafac and pull it too. I know somewhere in the depths of the internet I've seen this done with cantilevers, and I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work for a centerpull. If cable pull becomes an issue -I'd have to do some math to know if it would or not- you could always just use a problem solver in place of the rollamajig.

The only problem I could foresee with this particular method is that Mafac used a goofy open "eye" on one side which might make it difficult to secure the cable for a transverse pull. I can tell it would work fine on a regular weinmann/dia compe, but I don't have any Mafacs on hand to examine. Every problem is surmountable though.
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Old 03-31-09, 01:16 PM   #24
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Nice idea, but remember, the more specialized and complex you make it, the use of that Mafac ceases to be advantageous for a long tour with parts standardization in mind.

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Old 03-31-09, 01:42 PM   #25
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I put some thought into my initial suggestion and rotharpunc's realized prototype.
A revision on the same idea:

Buy a braze-on FD adapter clamp that would fit around the top tube. attach the suggested cable anchor to the braze-on tab.
With a long straddle wire (can try a MTB brake cable) around the seat tube, you preserve the alignments and no weird angles.

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