VegBiker

Hey Everybody,

I'm trying to do my first restoration of a 1970 Raleigh Sports. I've got a couple of issues, and not sure if they are normal:

First: The chain tension fluxuates as the cranks turn. I'm not sure if this is a chain length issue, and whether or not the chain that's on the bike right now is original. The chain that's on there right now has a master link with some sort of cotter pin holding it in place.

Second: The brakes are very stiff, and I've tried oiling them and still no improvement. Also, I've tightened down the brakes and they still show some considerable play when braking (e.g. a lot of linear movement with the rotation of the wheel).

Third: I put new tires on the back wheel and they can't seem to seat right; they make it look like the wheel is not true (a lot of tire wobble). The wheel is true and the tire is 26x1 3/8 in.

Anybody face similar issue before and have some advice to give?

Thanks
-A

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

Do you have Biopace chainrings on it perhaps? Otherwise that sorta points to something being out-of-round somewhere along the drivetrain.


Did you oil the cables as well as the brakes? If the cables aren't pulling smoothly the brakes won't operate smoothly. Oil em up if they're old steel, or replace em. New cables aren't expensive.


Third: Sometimes Tires are a real pain to get seated properly. I've spent nearly an hour getting it right in a few cases. I found it helped to inflate the tire to half pressure and work my way around the rim massaging the tire into place.

nlerner

I don't think it's unusual for the crankset chainring to be slightly ovalized or maybe your SA cog is. Adjust the tension at the point that the chain is most slack. The chain shouldn't be tight as a drum when it's properly adjusted. A little bit of play is fine. Too much play and the chain might jump off.

The center barrel of these brakes is threaded, so you need to tighten it with a big slotted screwdriver, and hold it in place while you tighten the fixing nut. If you tighten it too much, the calipers will stick, so just back off of that point a little bit. In terms of stiff, that's a problem with housing and/or cables; have you tried replacing them?

You can try spraying a little bit of WD-40 on the point of the rim bead where there's a low spot or use talcum powder or even spit. You might also try inflating the tires quite high to pop out that bead and then letting air out to the usual psi.

Neal

Roll-Monroe-Co

E.g., bent chainwheel, bent cog, bent crank spindle, bent rear axle.


Yes, take them all the way out of the housings, run some steel wool over them, run some wd-40 through the housings, then oil in the housings, reinstall cables.

Pics of the brakes and the flex underway might help diagnose.

VegBiker

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll try them later today and get back to you with the results.

Side notes:

No I don't have a biopace crank on there, and I'm a little afraid of inflating the tires beyond 70 psi, since I'm afraid of loud noises

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

Don't worry, You'll only have to hear it twice

Chris_in_Miami

Could also be a stretched out chain, and since you've suggested that it might be the original, it's almost certainly time for a new one.

As for the tires, the lube suggestions are on the money, I usually use keep a jar of water with a squirt of dish soap on hand, and swab it over the bead with a rag or sponge before inflating. Also, be sure your tires say "nn-590" somewhere on the sidewall (where the nn represents some other number.) If there's a 597, you've got the wrong tire.

PolishGuy

If you do have nn-597 tires please let me know. I could use an extra pair. PG.

CharlesC

I prefer to lube my brake and shifter cables with white grease instead of WD-40. I use WD-40 mostly as a cleaning solvent for bearings rather than as a lube.

sailorbenjamin

You could also check for loose bearings in the bottom bracket or the rear hub. excessive bearing play might cause the chainring or cog to woble when you stand on it.

Most Raleighs use a sort of unique brake cable end. See Sheldon Brown for details. You can get NOS stuff from Ebay or you can crimp some small diameter brass tube (from a hobby store or better hardware store) on the end of a standard cable.

I like to take my brakes all the way apart and clean all the years of gunk out from between the pivots and things. While you have it all the way apart, you can polish the chrome in all the nooks and crannies.

Kevin stafford

One other thing to check on your new tire-make sure the shop gave you the right size. The Raleigh 26 x 1 3/8 should be a 590 mm bead seat diameter (tire should have 37-590 on the sidewall), if they sold you a Schwinn size tire (597 mm bead seat-it will say 37-597) it will go on the rim, but because it is a little too big, it will never seat correctly. There are some shops out there that don't know the difference.

ozneddy

Other thing to check,spring tension on rear derailleur wheel cage,(they can loose spring tension with age) some can be adjusted ,others need replacing, maybe just a good clean ,adjust and lube ! (hope this helps)

wahoonc

If he has a 1970 Raleigh Sports it should be a Sturmey Archer 3 speed IGH...

Aaron

Esteban32696

You beat me to it Wahoon.

ozneddy

Oooops !

jacksbike

It is quite common for the chain tension to vary on a 3 speed bike as you turn the cranks. Even with the bb tight, and chainwheel straight, etc. Put the bike upside down and move the wheel ahead in the frame dropouts about a 1/2 inch or less.
Even if the rim is perfectly round, tires do not seat 100% of the time. The post about using soapy water under the low spot is correct. When you pump close to the maximum amount of air in the tubes, the tires shoud, ideally, pop out of the low spot. If you have a high spot, usually the tube is trapped between the rim and the tire.

graywolf

Chain: The chain probably has stiff links. Replace it (standard 1/8x1/2 chain, not the narrow ones). Also check that the crainring is not bent.

Tires: Are you sure you got the correct size tire. Unfortunately there are at least three different size 26x1-3/8 tires. You need the ones that fit 590 rims (should say 37-590 on them somewhere).

Brakes: Brakes have a lot of room for problems. Cables are most likely. Luckily modern cables will work. Also the wheels have to be true for roundness as well as run out.

Luckily most consumable parts on these bikes can be replaced (Some of them you may have to mailorder).

Enjoy your bike. These are the best bikes for when you just want to ride around without busting your gut or proving something.

VegBiker

Wow, thank you everyone. Your suggestions are all great and sound like they would benefit many other people in this forum. I haven't had the time yet to implement any of them, but once I do I'll definitely let you know what worked and what didn't. I've also posted some pics below for you viewing pleasure:

wahoonc

NICE What does the little yellow sticker at the bottom of the seat tube say? "Made in Malaysia"?

Aaron

Esteban32696

Nice looking bike. That seat is worth a little $$ so don't throw it away or let someone beat you out of it.