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  1. #1
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    Help removing a demonically stuck post from a Austro Daimler?

    So, someone was very nice today and gave me this nice Austro Daimler frame. Unfortunately, the seat post had been stuck, and he tried to remove it. He told me he used lye to try to get it out, then a hacksaw.

    Hopefully I can succeed where he failed. Any suggestions? I was thinking about soaking it in WD-40 and drilling a hole through the seat post and trying to wench it out. I don't know how I'd hold the frame in place without damaging it though. It seems like such a shame to abandon it.

    Anyway, sorry for the bad images.






    Last edited by yuoil; 06-18-09 at 03:48 PM. Reason: I fail at linking actual images.

  2. #2
    Senior Member peripatetic's Avatar
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    There are tons of threads on this topic. Do a search under my name, and also in the Mechanics section.

    You can use lye to dissolve the post out, but it takes time, and you need to get a concentrated solution and do it in a well-ventilated place.

    You can also use a drill and gradually increase the size of the bits.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    This is a common problem and there has been /tons/ of discussion about it here. Try searching the bikemechanics forums or this one. If the search function doesn't work for you, try using google --> 'stuck seat post site:bikeforums.net'

    PS that looks like a very nice frame. Be patient and you should end up with a very nice riding bike. You can search for Austro Daimler here too to see what you have

  4. #4
    Senior Member ricohman's Avatar
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    WD is junk. Use PB blaster.
    For real stubborn posts that have been mangled I use my air hammer to loosen them up. Then they can be turned out with vise grips.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for showing me how to search with google here. I do, admitedly have problems using the search right. My concern with vice grips is ripping the aluminum and having it stuck in there for good.

    edit: geez, that did turn up a lot! Sorry, I knew this had come up before but I failed like the noob I am at finding it.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

    as it's an aluminum post I'm going to soak it in ammonia and if that doesn't work I'll try the hacksaw thing. I figure that's why he cut off the saddle (Wish he hadn't, though).
    Last edited by yuoil; 06-18-09 at 05:37 PM.

  6. #6
    Survival of the Fitest TheDL's Avatar
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    I had a really stubborn stem stuck not too long ago. Maybe this might work in your case. Perhaps you can find an old stem w/ a really narrow diameter that will fit inside the hacked seatpost. Install it and tighten the expander bolt to secure it inside the seat post. Then put a handle bar in it.

    Now what I did for my stem was I had some Phil's Tenacious Oil on hand. I put a few drops around the seam and it slowly seeped down. I did that a few times and then started wrenching back and forth on that stem as humanly possible. It took a few goes but it finally, slowly, broke loose. Then it was a matter of pulling and back-n-forth to work it out.

    Good luck!
    ...take your protein pills and put your helmet on...
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  7. #7
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    I just had a problem with a stuck aluminum seat post in a basic cromoly frame. Bought PB Blaster and it did the trick!

  8. #8
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    Well, it's still soaking in ammonia. I'm a bit concerned about having so little post to work with. I'll try PB Blaster before I resort to NaOH though, I think. To think, just a little grease could have prevented this! I think I'll always grease posts from now on

  9. #9
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    That's an Inter 10 - most likely - Reynold's 531 double-butted frame & fork! Get out the PB Blaster and let it soak for a day or three. You'll get that seatpost out, and once you give it the components it deserves - The BEST - you'll have a world-class fast-touring road-machine. Those are some of the best frames. Easily in the same class - just not as well known - as such names as Cinelli and Masi. Someone gave you this?? Man - you owe that person a heck of a good gift!

    So be patient and let the PB Blaster work it's magic. This is one frame/fork you need to take care of and work slow and steady on. You don't want to, out of frustration, rush and risk any damage.

    You WILL get that busted seatpost out of the frame.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  10. #10
    Senior Member peripatetic's Avatar
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    I once spent weeks with a stuck seatpost and a bottle of PB Blaster; also ammonia and Liquid Wrench. But I went through most of my can of PB Blaster, and it never worked. Sometimes, that bond's just too much.

  11. #11
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
    ... Reynold's 531 double-butted frame & fork! ... Those are some of the best frames. Easily in the same class - just not as well known - as such names as Cinelli and Masi. ...
    I concur. Steyr-Daimler-Puch makes pretty decent firearms and automobile parts, too.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
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  12. #12
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    I had an early interest in Puch, which is why I am excited. Unfortunately he didn't have the fork. I'm not sure when I'll find a replacement. But the frame is exactly my size, and the paint is very pretty, even if flawed. My big problem with soaking is keeping the liquids in. The tape adhesive seems to dissolve after a few hours and leak it out, and with the tube in there I can't just cork it up or something.

    Lots of support for PB blaster though! I have to admit I've never even used it!

  13. #13
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    Be Careful!!!

    Putting too much torque on a stuck seat post just might break the seat tube lug away from a set stay. Do not try the twist and yank thing!

    Using a hacksaw blade carefully slot the seat post from the inner diameter to the outer. The allow will cut and sound different than the steel of the seat tube. Care must be taken to ensure that the deepest part of the seat post is cut first. It is easy to cut near the exposed end.

    As you do this, use a flash light to frequently observe your progress. FREQUENTLY!!! You do not want to scratch or, worse yet, cut into the steel of the seat tube. I have a procedure written for this and hope to upload it soon to MY "TEN SPEEDS".

    Once you have two slots cut, about 1/4" apart, gently pry the piece between the two slots loose. Take care to not apply much prying pressure. Too much pressure just might distort the seat tube.

    Eventually the slotted piece will come loose and can be easily removed. Then just grip the top of the exposed seat post, squeeze it together and voila, the stupid thing will release with no damage to the frame set.

    I have broken one frame set using the twist and turn thing and I will never do it this way again. A bit of extra time spent will guarantee acceptable results. Needless to say, you will also have to remove and clean the metal debris from the bottom bracket and bracket housing.

    Hope this has been a help and get in touch if you do not understand. Good luck and this process works for stuck steering stems also.

    And when you install you new seat post, ensure that the seat tube is clean and free of burrs on the inside diameter. If there are burrs, you run the risk of scoring the seat post when inserting or removing the soft alloy unit. Then apply a thing coat of grease to the seat post to ensure that is does not seize again.

  14. #14
    hi YoKev's Avatar
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    Be careful with PB Blaster. It worked great, but my one experience with it actually melted the paint after sitting for a day. Wipe up any excess you can.

  15. #15
    Too many bikes bikemore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yuoil View Post
    Well, it's still soaking in ammonia. I'm a bit concerned about having so little post to work with. I'll try PB Blaster before I resort to NaOH though, I think. To think, just a little grease could have prevented this! I think I'll always grease posts from now on
    Because there is a bonding between the aluminum and the steel PB Blaster will pretty pretty ineffective.
    Ammonia can definitely work, but I had issues with it. Perhaps not enough (I did it with the seat post
    intact and pouring through the BB).

  16. #16
    Senior Member jonwvara's Avatar
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    What about using an adjustable reamer, or a couple of them? Might have to start with a smallish one to fit into the aluminum seat tube at first, then switch to a bigger one as the hole gets bigger.
    I've never tried that. Just an idea--I haven't thought about it for long enough to find the fatal flaw, if there is one.

  17. #17
    Novist senior member tolfan's Avatar
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    My trek 520 had that same seatpost. Put it is a vise and turned until the post snaped like yours.
    Take a hacsaw and saw the post lengthwise down to the seat tube. Be careful not to go to far. Then chisel it out with a 1/4 chisel. That frame is worth the work. I tried all the other ways mentioned and none of them worked. I had to bang out every bit of mine, it was completely bonded to the tube.
    There are some things a man needs to believe in wether they're true or not;

  18. #18
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    Take your time and you will suceed. I had a similar problem - after a lot oh help from all the ladies and gentelmen on the forum here I had sucess. I atempted lots of different ideas - brut force was never going to work.

    Be careful.


    Old (New to me) 531 Paconi - Stuck Stem

  19. #19
    Senior Member social suicide's Avatar
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    Get a beeswax toilet ring (<$2.00 and a little heat - cancel WARMTH from a propane torch) and it will almost fall out. The wax will flow toward the heat 1 molecule thick and dissolve the oxide bonds.

  20. #20
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    How can the beeswax get between the tube and the post? That seems to be the problem with all the liquid solutions. I tried the hacksaw blade but I am really bad at cutting in a straight line and I've already made a few scratches inside (shallow though :| ). I think that may be the only way though.

    edit: do I have to worry about ammonia destroying the paint? I'd prefer to save it if I can.

  21. #21
    Senior Member social suicide's Avatar
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    The wax will flow towards the heat just like sweating copper pipe. You should have all listened to your 9th grade shop teacher more carefully!

  22. #22
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    capillary action. That just might do it.

  23. #23
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    The paint on these are funky - they look burgundy-red, purple, and brown-black depending on the light and angle. I can't guarantee that ammonia will eat it. But I'd try a test on a part not likely to see the light of day. Like under the BB-shell. You should also find the serial-number under there - for your reference.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  24. #24
    Novist senior member tolfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yuoil View Post
    How can the beeswax get between the tube and the post? That seems to be the problem with all the liquid solutions. I tried the hacksaw blade but I am really bad at cutting in a straight line and I've already made a few scratches inside (shallow though :| ). I think that may be the only way though.

    edit: do I have to worry about ammonia destroying the paint? I'd prefer to save it if I can.
    When I did the saw thing I used a blade with a handle on the end so it was just flat against the whole length of seat post. I sawed it using the opening at the binder bolt as a depth gage. I found the saw handle at Target, think it was a stanley product. It was the 1st time I tried it and it was surprisingly easy. The banging out the post after the sawing was the hard part.

    That beeswax sounds interesting. So you heat the frame 1st or the wax?
    There are some things a man needs to believe in wether they're true or not;

  25. #25
    hehe... member thatguy's Avatar
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    Mine was broken/cut/trashed just like that. A friend works at a machine shop and he bored it out in about 20 minutes. He had some sort of giant Dremel tool. Came out good as new. If nothing else you could try that route.

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