Crazy to try racing this? Or worthwhile ...
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Crazy to try racing this? Or worthwhile ...
I had this idea of entering some amateur races with my old (but nice) 80s bike. You can see the specs and photo below. If I were to change the tires & rims to lighter ones (currently it sports 700x23 Hutchinsons), would it still be totally owned by today's carbon bikes on the road?
Centurion Master Ironman 1989
Frame: Tange Champion #1 (CR-MO double-butted steel). Forged dropouts.
Gears: Shimano 600 SL-6400 M5
Brakes: Shimano SLR.
Stem: Nitto B115 420
Pedals: "Look" brand metal clip pedals
Chainwheel: Shimano Biopace
Hubs: Shimano 600 w/ quick release
Front Rim: Araya CTL-370
Rear Rim: Mavic MA-40
Seapost: Sugino SP-K
Centurion Master Ironman 1989
Frame: Tange Champion #1 (CR-MO double-butted steel). Forged dropouts.
Gears: Shimano 600 SL-6400 M5
Brakes: Shimano SLR.
Stem: Nitto B115 420
Pedals: "Look" brand metal clip pedals
Chainwheel: Shimano Biopace
Hubs: Shimano 600 w/ quick release
Front Rim: Araya CTL-370
Rear Rim: Mavic MA-40
Seapost: Sugino SP-K
#3
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Depends on the race. Lots of hills and/or pace changes would prolly be a drag with DT shifters. Rims, tires and frame material will likely figure less into the equation.
I often think about racing with my olde bike. Probably gonna pass again this week.
I often think about racing with my olde bike. Probably gonna pass again this week.
#5
Riding like its 1990
It all depends on the rider. Yes, you'll have 5 lb of extra weight on the bike and a slower response time with DT shifters, less gearing due to 7 sp?
Big lungs and big legs can get over that.
Big lungs and big legs can get over that.
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you might be able to blind them with that color pattern.
You will have a good time, who cares, you bought your bike for what 100 bux? they are riding some carbon fiber noodle that cost a million bucks. you my friend already won.
btw, bar end shifters are a cheap upgrade. i love mine.
You will have a good time, who cares, you bought your bike for what 100 bux? they are riding some carbon fiber noodle that cost a million bucks. you my friend already won.
btw, bar end shifters are a cheap upgrade. i love mine.
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you might be able to blind them with that color pattern. You will have a good time, who cares, you bought your bike for what 100 bux? they are riding some carbon fiber noodle that cost a million bucks. you my friend already won.
btw, bar end shifters are a cheap upgrade. i love mine.
btw, bar end shifters are a cheap upgrade. i love mine.
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I agree, as long as it's not a criterium you should be ok. The picture above is of my budget racer, composed of a Trek 760 frame (still have the fork, don't worry). I still run the original Campagnolo victory crank and shifters (lol still run the original shift cables too), and the rest has been changed due to wear / tear or difficulty of use. It's not a kosher build, but it keeps me on the road. I just wish I could find a 56cm frame *sigh*.
#9
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I second upgrading to bar end shifters. They're really not that much slower than brifters. At least not enough if you're not super serious. Otherwise, if you have fun go for it!
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What I found years ago when coaching young riders was that the bike makes a little difference while the rider makes a big difference. Unless you are on gas pipe or the grearing does not work, give it a try and see if you like it. When I was racing we were told not to use bar end shifters because the other riders could shift your bike into a big gear while climbing a hill.
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I agree, if it's a criterium you should be ok. The picture above is of my budget racer, composed of a Trek 760 frame (still have the fork, don't worry). I still run the original Campagnolo victory crank and shifters (lol still run the original shift cables too), and the rest has been changed due to wear / tear or difficulty of use. It's not a kosher build, but it keeps me on the road. I just wish I could find a 56cm frame *sigh*.
I'm thinking of taking my old race bike that I just built up and doing a crit.
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#14
Riding like its 1990
I agree, as long as it's not a criterium you should be ok. The picture above is of my budget racer, composed of a Trek 760 frame (still have the fork, don't worry). I still run the original Campagnolo victory crank and shifters (lol still run the original shift cables too), and the rest has been changed due to wear / tear or difficulty of use. It's not a kosher build, but it keeps me on the road. I just wish I could find a 56cm frame *sigh*.
What size frame is that? I have a $50 760 and now it has to compete with a $100 carbon 5200 I just picked up for daily rider. We'll see who wins. The 760 is a 56cm and its always just felt too long for me. The 5200 is a 52cm and I'll see if that feels too small.
Will you be in Cali anytime soon?
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I did my first three cyclocross races on my 1990 Mystery bike, barely got the 32s in there, had to let out air to get them through the brakes.
You might throw on a light tubular wheelset. Nothing has gotten any lighter since then and old sewup stuff costs pennies compared.
You might throw on a light tubular wheelset. Nothing has gotten any lighter since then and old sewup stuff costs pennies compared.
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When my CF racer was out of commission early this spring, I raced my '86 Gazelle. Finished in the pack but managed to win a prime.
#17
Full Member
Probably don't even have 5 lb. extra, since it probably weighed new about 23 lb with pedals, pretty close to a new bike weight w/o pedals. Besides, having lugs will make you faster
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Race it! Imagine how people are gonna feel when you blow past them on your 40$ bike?
That should make it worthwhile.
Leave the thermos on...
That should make it worthwhile.
Leave the thermos on...
#19
Riding like its 1990
I'm thinking 5lb because my steel Trek is 22.5 lb and the old carbon Trek I picked up is 19lb. Still, that's less than a difference in body weight for most riders.
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Do it, man that would be awesome if you beat people with their $1000+ bikes. I was thinking of trying a race with my 1988 raleigh. I wish I could see the looks on their faces if you do it.
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After riding with groups for a while in 1999 I decided to try my hand at a cat 5 race, the bike
I used was a old 1975 mid range race bike, it only had 2x5 with friction shifters.
The crit was flat and only had four corners, I kept in my 52 and only used the 16 and 14.
For this type of course the bike did not hold me back, I was near my physical limit the whole race.
When you first start racing, in my opinion the bike makes very little difference, you quickly discover if
you have the motor or not.
I used was a old 1975 mid range race bike, it only had 2x5 with friction shifters.
The crit was flat and only had four corners, I kept in my 52 and only used the 16 and 14.
For this type of course the bike did not hold me back, I was near my physical limit the whole race.
When you first start racing, in my opinion the bike makes very little difference, you quickly discover if
you have the motor or not.
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...or I guess they could just stick a frame pump in your spokes
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1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
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1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
1973 Bottecchia Gran Turismo, 1974 Bottecchia Special, 1977 Bottecchia Special (frame),
1974 Peugeot UO-8, 1988 Panasonic PT-3500, 2002 Bianchi Veloce, 2004 Bianchi Pista
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Do it, do it, do it.
One of lifeīs little pleasures is passing CF bikes on vintage (or in my case, semi-vintage) steel framed bikes. Itīs the engine. My local clubīs 10 mile record is still from 1984, some absolute beast on a funny bike, no aero bars.
One of lifeīs little pleasures is passing CF bikes on vintage (or in my case, semi-vintage) steel framed bikes. Itīs the engine. My local clubīs 10 mile record is still from 1984, some absolute beast on a funny bike, no aero bars.