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  1. #1
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    1982 Ray Inkley / Faggin [?] frame - what to do?

    I've been lurking here for a while and you guys have inspired me to do this, so here goes...

    I picked up this frame yesterday after an impulse bid won it for me on eBay.



















    The pictures above, taken by the seller, show the worst of the chrome on the r/h chainstay without any polishing.

    The history that I know of from the previous owner is as follows. It was a NOS frame from Ray Inkley cycles of Lincoln and was sold to him as being built in 1982 by Faggin. Ray Inkley was apparently a Lincoln-based racer who had his own shop in Lincoln some time between the 70s and the mid-90s.

    The last guy bought the frame, built it, discovered it was slightly too small for him and wanted the parts for another project.

    Here's what it looked like then



    It has a Reynold 531 Double Butted sticker on the seat tube, but there are some big question marks over that - I'm told it has a 26.3mm seatpost rather than 27.2; an unlikely tube if it's a Faggin, it would be more likely Colombus. I suppose there's a slim chance it might have been built with metric 531 SL, which I've seen elsewhere on some Peugeots which have 26.4 mm posts. This seems a bit odd, though, and the Reynolds sticker would still be wrong.

    There are no marks on the frame to identify it directly that it's a Faggin. There was recently a blue Faggin frame on eBay UK that was almost identical, down to the pattern of the chroming and lining, but that had their 'F' cut into the tops of the forks. Looking around at other frames by Faggin of the same era, there are certainly a lot of stylistic similarities, particularly the way that the tops of the stays are finished and the size stamp on the bottom of the BB. I suspect that Ray Inkley was either buying or commissioning frames from Faggin for sale in his shop. If anyone has any other information, I'm all ears.

    Other vital stats: 58 cm frame, 1" threaded headset, British threaded standard BB (previous owner had it tapped by a bike shop as there was paint still in the threads) and a nutted brake fitting. 100mm spaced front forks and 125mm rear. There's a braze-on for a front derailleur on the seat-tube.

    As for me, I've never built a bike up from just a frame before, so this is a bit of an adventure. I've a fair bit of experience maintaining my 1992 Raleigh Scorpio that I've owned from new (and before that a Sun Super 5 that I got when I was about fifteen, though the Inkley is close to being the bike I would really have wanted in 1982 - hence the impulse bid!). I'll probably get my LBS to install the headset and bottom bracket - as it happens they're they the fairly well-respected maker Pearsons of Sutton.

    I'm thinking that, since it never saw the road until this year, it gives me a bit of leeway on a period-accurate build. Campag/Italian components are the obvious choice [?]. I may need people to set me straight here, however.

    What I don't want to do is anything to the frame that I can't easily undo if I change my mind later, so that rules out drilling the forks for recessed brake nut and cold-setting the rear stays wider.

    I have the Push seatpost that came with the frame already. I think I've deciced on a Netto Pearl stem. In principle, 700c wheels.

    I'm going to make some concessions to the 21st century on the brakes and go with some Tektro R556 calipers which are available with a nut fitting, though the previous owner had some short-drop Weinmann 600s with 700c rims; I may have to check these sizes out. Any nutted brakes seem to be thin on the ground in the UK, even on eBay, and I've spent far too much of my life re-adjusting the centering of side-pulls (admittedly cheap Weinmanns in every case).

    I do appreciate the lack of clutter that Aero levers bring, so these will pair up with some Cane Creek SCR-5s with tan hoods, if I can find some in the UK. I'm also considering Dia Compe 287s with black hoods. Part of that decision is going to go with my choice of saddle. White bar tape in either case.

    I'm going to stick with the downtube shifters as I've never known anything else on any of the bikes I've ridden. As I've ruled out widening the rear, really modern shift systems are mostly likely out of the window anyhow.

    A Tange Levin headset may be on the books (though I'm tempted by a modern Record or Chorus or a Stronglight A9).

    Possibly because I'm British and usually have an eye for touring bikes, my first instinct is to go with a Brooks saddle - Team Pro or a Swift in honey or black depending on what I do with the brake levers. I might be persuaded by something more Italian, though.

    When it comes to the drivetrain, I'm rather more vague as I'm only really familiar with the stock Shimano and Sturmey set ups that I've used on bikes before.

    While I know my way round Shimano gear from looking at upgrades for the Raleigh, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to Campagnolo apart from my memories of it being seriously expensive when I was a kid! The cable routing on the BB might suggest it's my only option [?]. I guess I'm looking at a 12-speed setup with a freewheel.

    I'm open to suggestions on this front, though I also have to work out what my budget is going to be.

    Wheels and bars is another question I haven't got good answers to. I will admit that I do find myself surprised to like the aero rims that the last owner put on it (I think they're Mavics of some kind).

    Apologies for the long and rambling post. I've been using it to sort out some things in my head while I've been writing. Any input gratefully received.
    Last edited by cybertect; 07-10-09 at 08:05 AM.

  2. #2
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybertect View Post
    It has a Reynold 531 Double Butted sticker on the seat tube, but there are some big question marks over that
    I agree. That looks like a repop decal to me, with an incorrect font used for "GUARANTEED BUILT WITH" and "BUTTED TUBES, FORKS & STAYS," in addition to the decal being a tad taller overall. Note the leading (vertical gap) used between the lines and at the respective top and bottom of said lines.

    -Kurt

  3. #3
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Decal is fake, or a replacement. Nice looking frame regardless!

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    Yep. The seller was upfront about it and I've walked into that with my eyes wide open. It's a pretty frame with nice lugwork. I haven't got to weighing it, but it feels fairly light. I'm tempted to remove the 531 sticker.

    Having had an hour long conversation with the chap that was selling when I went get it last night, I'm prepared to take his word that it rides well.

  5. #5
    Stop reading my posts! unworthy1's Avatar
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    are there raised ridges inside the steerer? Hard to read on my monitor, but if so it has at the least a Columbus steerer. 26.3 seat tube is very strange, but not standard for 531 nor for metric 531 which is what the Peugeot you mentioned would have used, and take a 26.4 or 26.6, typically. Could be a Falck tube or something else plain gauge to produce a lower cost frame. Looks like Gipiemme short drop outs with no brand stampings, or ground off. Nicely finished, the chrome should shine up with a good polish and I bet it rides fine no matter what the tubing. I'd consider building with mid-grade Campagnolo gear, like Mirage, might not be completely "period-correct" but very satisfying.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bluenote157's Avatar
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    From my understanding..if it is a steel frame, you should be able to squeeze 9/10 speed setup in the back. If you need more inspiration.. follow this link.. classics with ergo/stis and newer drivetrains..

    retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenote157 View Post
    From my understanding..if it is a steel frame, you should be able to squeeze 9/10 speed setup in the back.
    I'd looked at that, but for a variety of reasons it's not really a route I want to go down with this bike.

    I'm happy to stick with 6/7 and friction shifting on the rear. While I'm not being strict about period accuracy, I want to stick with the spirit of the frame. I'm making my main compromises with the brakes.

    I'm not going to be racing or commuting with it; it's more likely to be used for a pleasant Sunday afternoon ride.

  8. #8
    slow as I ever was Ex Pres's Avatar
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    It's also possible that the seat tube was installed upside down and you have the non-butted end at the top.

    Not saying it's likely, but it was known to happen.

    And metric tubing is easily ID'd as the TT, ST & DT are all different than standard tubing OD.
    72 special CNC ___________ 72 Frejus (ala Legnano) __73 Holdsworth Record
    78 Raleigh Professional_____ 80 Ranson_____________ 80 unknown French (SS)
    82 Peugeot PXN10_________83 Trek 600____________ 85 Gianni Motta
    85 Trek 560______________88 Guerciotti GLX
    90 Miele Gara_____________02 Casati Dardo (g/b\k)___02 Casati Dardo (y/blk)
    03 Casati Dardo___________08 BF IRO (fixed)________10 Vassago Fisticuff (IGH)

  9. #9
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    I really like frames with chrome forks and chrome rear triangle.

  10. #10
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    A Reynolds steerer will usually say so stamped above the crown. 26.3mm seat post doesn't sound like a real number, it should be an even number and 26.8 is perfectly plausible on a large bike. I'd double check that.

    The Tektro levers are indistinguishable from the Cane Creek except for the lizards.

    6 cogs in the back would be period correct and fit the frame - 7 would also fit but be a later era. Both came with freehubs along the way. The reliability of freehub is a plus and IINM parts should be more available. I don't see the cable routing keeping you from using Shimano, just saves you from needing that ugly little plastic cable guide.

    The recessed brake mounting isn't that far out of correct, it would go with the aero levers.

    Anyway, a few thoughts and things to check.

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