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Old 07-10-09, 01:34 PM   #1
LRMike
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Paint Stripping Issues

I'm trying to strip the paint off my frame, using Jasco paint stripper. And it's really not working very well. 5 applications and most of the paint is still on there. I searched through these forums and Jasco is recommended by some, so I don't think it's the stripper. I'm applying with a brush, as thick as I can (it's dripping off). It is hot outside - the bike is in the garage, with the door open to mostly closed, depending. So it's shaded. I'm not wiping it off after 15 minutes because no wrinklage is appearing. Tend to be waiting 30 min or longer. I scrub it off with steel wool.

I'm not sure if it's my application, the pain on the bike ('84 schwinn), or just bad luck. Any advice?
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Old 07-10-09, 02:02 PM   #2
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I once tried that on a Raleigh. I eventually gave up trying to completely remove the paint. I used sand paper to break the sheen on the surface and just used the old paint as a "primer" coat. It worked well.

If you are determined to get it all off, perhaps wrapping with paper or foil will keep the solvents from evaporating before they soften the paint. Once softened, try scratching/scraping with a paint scraper.

Sand paper also works. If you want it to go faster, use a power sander. Be careful with a power sander.

Last edited by Mike Mills; 07-10-09 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 07-10-09, 02:04 PM   #3
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Did you say that the paint is coming off after 30 min? Use sandpaper (80 -100 grit) first to rough up the paint then apply the Jasco. It should wrinkle up then.

JR.
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Old 07-10-09, 03:02 PM   #4
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A thin layer of paint comes off after leaving the stripper on there for an extended period of time. A couple times I have forgotten it and left it on for a couple hours. I've done lots of sanding in my time, and would like to avoid more...especially all those little bumps and ridges on the bike, near impossible to sand. I think a few more coats of Jasco and I'll have made decent headway. But I wonder why others seem to have more success, claiming being able to strip the paint in one or two applications.
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Old 07-10-09, 03:14 PM   #5
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I use a steel wire brush on the stubborn spots. It can be painful because it tends to flick stripper in all directions.

Covering with plastic wrap to reduce evaporation is an old trick that has worked well for me.
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Old 07-10-09, 03:38 PM   #6
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I used Jasco from a spray can on a Schwinn Sierra a couple weeks ago and the paint wrinkled up within about 30 seconds and I had the bike mostly stripped in 10 minutes or less. It was amazing!

The only parts it didn't touch were the places still covered by the decals -- I had to scrape them off and then respray those spots.

One note, my Sierra was entirely chrome under the paint. But I don't see how that would effect performance...
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Old 07-10-09, 04:12 PM   #7
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The varying results are due to different types of paint used by the different makers.
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Old 07-10-09, 07:20 PM   #8
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Grease on the paint can cause the paint stripper not to penetrate the paint. You should thoroughly clean and degrease the frame before trying to strip it. I've never used Jasco, I use the "Aircraft Stripper" they sell at Pep Boys, or I use Permetex Gasket Remover, which comes in a spray can. Both have given me good results.

I never touch a good frame with sandpaper, not so much because I worry about damaging the metal, but because it takes a lot of primer to fill in the scratches in the metal. Scratches will often show through the paint if you don't prepare the surface properly (priming and sanding with fine sandpaper).
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Old 07-10-09, 09:45 PM   #9
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Aircraft stripper, or any remover labeled to remove epoxy paint. Some of the other stuff will just sit on there with little effect. And when you brush, brush once and in one direction only.
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Old 07-10-09, 10:25 PM   #10
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Jasco is strong stuff and probably the same as aircraft stripper. I haven't seen any paint resist it. Are you sure it's paint? Could the frame be power coated or anodized?
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Old 07-10-09, 10:40 PM   #11
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Like Barker says, "Airplane Stripper" get it at any auto parts store. The stuff will make paint start to fall off, even modern urethanes and powder coat finishes. Then use something like a wire brush and hose to knock it off. Rinse and repeat.

I just used it on a factory powder coated crankset, 3 minutes and I could take the paint off by tapping the crank. You will just wanna slap those people who recommended anything else.

PBR, Jasco may be nasty to humans and other organics, but it isn't nearly as good as this stuff for stripping a bike frame. Really. Not. Even. Close. The next time you need to get paint off of metal, try it. Honest. You'll thank us.

Last edited by Ronsonic; 07-10-09 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 07-10-09, 10:52 PM   #12
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Jasco makes aircraft stripper -- formulated to remove paint while leaving aluminum unharmed. Has anyone tried brake fluid to remove paint? It's usually hell on automotive finishes! A heat gun, used judiciously, might also help deal with a stubborn finish (with plenty of ventilation) -- but not a torch.
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Old 07-11-09, 04:44 AM   #13
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Paint strippers are OK but I always use an oxy-acetylene set with a heating tip. It takes about 20 to 30 mins to burn all the paint off. I use a wire brush to brush off the residue paint. Next, I sand the tubes with dry, wet and dry paper.

Next, I paint the frame before spraying 'frame saver' into the tubes.

The advantage of burning the paint off is that you can get into all the little nooks and crannies. The heat is easy to regulate and you don't overheat the tubes or brazings as some people might suspect - it just doesn't happen. The tubes rarely change colour. Infact, heating to such a low temperature would stress relieve the frame.

The only problem with this method is access to a heat source and the use of a breathing mask.
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Old 07-11-09, 09:33 AM   #14
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i tried applying the Jasco in the cool of the night last evening, still working slowly, with no wrinkling like i've gotten before using stripper. The bike being an '84, I doubt it's powdercoated, but I wouldn't be able to identify if it was. I think I'll try the heat gun in my garage - I've got a torch, but a bit afraid of using it on my cromoly frame, don't really know the tolerances for it - and if not that, I'll run to the auto store and get some aircraft stripper!

UPDATE: w-t-f-, heavy-duty milwaukee heat gun set to high and nada. what is this paint made of? (I should note here that i'm replacing it not only to chance colors, but because there were flakes and a few rust spots, so it's not impregnable) Off to get aircraft stripper

Last edited by LRMike; 07-11-09 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 07-11-09, 09:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker View Post
...And when you brush, brush once and in one direction only.

Curious--why?
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Old 07-11-09, 12:45 PM   #16
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OK, got the aircraft stripper...accidentally oversprayed a bit onto a tool box, and it took the paint of that in 2 seconds. It's working on the bike, though not quite as well. I'm applying thick coats with the spray, and letting it sit, covered, for a few min, and getting wrinklage, finally! Still leaving bits here and there, so I think this is going to take the whole can.

The bike does have an interesting primer on it, though..bronze colored, metallic sheen, between the paint and the grey steel. Anyone know what I'm seeing?
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Old 07-11-09, 02:21 PM   #17
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Curious--why?
That's what the directions often specify and it really does help. I have no idea why.
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Old 07-11-09, 03:46 PM   #18
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Without the usual dissertation .. Many good points mentioned and my 2 cents...

#1) Apply Jasco thick, only once, and in the same direction. Why? Dunno, but it does help!
I usually let it set until it's dry, then papertowel it all off, then rinse & repeat.
Note; I always scrape off any decals, stickers and other surface coverings before Jasco-ing.

#2) HEAT; sure it works, but what a stink!!! The pressure sandblaster I use is $89 at Harbor Freight. Sand in #60 size is $8.79 for 100 lb. bag. That will usually do 2 frames that have been Jasco-ed already.
And it gets every last nook & cranny CLEAN!

Downside is that you really should primer right away!!

For blasting bike frames, a 20 gallon compressor will supply enough air.

#3) Paint & Epoxy Remover works on ALL readily available finishes, INCLUDING powdercoating!
That's what powdercoaters use if they are re-doing a powdercoat job.
Sand or media blasting powdercoating is a BAD IDEA! Powdercoating is made to RESIST abrasion.

Just some notes on stripping. Now I'm going to go lay some Jasco on this old Frejus, so I can save the beautiful chrome.

Good luck with that!
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Old 07-11-09, 05:09 PM   #19
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aircraft stripper got most of the paint, down to resistant patches here and there...I'm using very fine steel wool to wipe after the stripper, and little brass brush work. I think I'll go back to Jasco for these last bits. Stripper can is pretty much used.

Dr. Delton, glad to know I'm not doing anything wrong with letting the Jasco dry.

How can you tell if you're looking at paint or powdercoat?

Also, i really like the bronze-ish primer (I think it's primer). It reminds me of the clear-coated Bombadil from Rivendell. I'd love to be able to reapply it and clear coat over it...if I can figure out what it is!
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Old 07-11-09, 10:21 PM   #20
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That is one tough paint job. I've gotten one frame, a crank and a bunch of electronic project boxes for guitar effects out of a can with enough left to start any job smaller than another frame with confidence.

One of life's perversities that a finish that hard to remove would be that damaged by time and rust.
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Old 07-11-09, 10:28 PM   #21
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Don't know if I should start a new thread with this question -- I also want to strip paint from an old Schwinn (a Lil Chik, I think), but I want to strip ONLY the bad coat of tan paint the previous owner spread over the bike, and leave the original Scwinn paint on the bike. Is this possible?
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