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Old 08-17-09, 12:40 PM   #1
OldRoadman
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Fender Screws Needed / Trek 613

Anyone know what size and thread type are use for thread holes on the forks and the down stays?

Bill
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Old 08-17-09, 12:58 PM   #2
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common convention is m4
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Old 08-17-09, 01:01 PM   #3
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M5, not a fine thread. This size is standard across bike brands. Check at your Local Hardware Store (LHS). Even the most expensive Allen head stainless steel bolts should be at most $.70 each. I could easily see a LBS selling you a $15.00 Fender Installation Kit.

Think about how you will secure the rear fender at the BB. The little clip on the fender might or might not latch into the chainstay bridge. It did on my Trek 610 (similar frame as yours), but did not on my Woodrup, which has a beefier chain stay. I used a Pclip on the Woodrup.
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Old 08-17-09, 01:03 PM   #4
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Would M4 with a nut and lockwasher be for non-threaded holes? The Treks have threaded holes.

I could be wrong.
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Old 08-17-09, 01:14 PM   #5
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I believe the threading is 10/22 in any case it should be the same as your waterbottle screws. do you live near an ACE?
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Old 08-17-09, 02:02 PM   #6
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Would M4 with a nut and lockwasher be for non-threaded holes? The Treks have threaded holes.

I could be wrong.
you could do that I have done it on several bike I would use a nylock nut instead of the nut and washer combo
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Old 08-17-09, 02:42 PM   #7
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Ok, we have a lot of diversity of opinion, probably all with good reason. Go the your Ace or LHS, and buy one of each of those sizes. Take them home and see what fits. I would not assume there's English "cross" to the metric size. I know my bike (a 1984 Trek 610) threaded perfectly with metric bolts, so I'm pretty sure an English size isn't right for you. But I'm not sure if its M4 or M5. I do know it's the same as for my water bottle cage. You could take the water bottle bolt, test it in your fender eyelets, and if it's the same take it to the hardware store and say, "please give me four of these."
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Old 08-17-09, 03:22 PM   #8
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The standard is M5. That's the size you'll get when you buy fenders that come with hardware. Once in a while you'll get one that takes M6. I have an '83 Fuji like that.
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Old 08-17-09, 08:44 PM   #9
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Thanks...Got It!

Screws for bottle cage work in fender eyelets. Will get some stainless at the LHS.

Thanks Again.... Bill
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Old 08-18-09, 06:16 AM   #10
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your welcome Bill those scews come with lots of defferent heads 3,4,5, mm allen and straigh and philips. most all braze on screws ar that size as well as most cleats. I don't know who suggested the nylon washers, not a bad ida, but velo orange sells some nice leather washers for fenders
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Old 08-18-09, 06:31 AM   #11
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your welcome Bill those scews come with lots of defferent heads 3,4,5, mm allen and straigh and philips. most all braze on screws ar that size as well as most cleats. I don't know who suggested the nylon washers, not a bad ida, but velo orange sells some nice leather washers for fenders
Hi, I think it was Nylok nuts, that once torqued grab and don't back off. But if we're bolting to threaded eyelets with the proper threaded bolt, we don't need any nut on the far end of the bolt.

I suppose one could use a leather or nylon washer to isolate vibration. I'm not sure the eyelet would be the best place for that, however.
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Old 08-18-09, 09:25 AM   #12
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Hi, I think it was Nylok nuts, that once torqued grab and don't back off. But if we're bolting to threaded eyelets with the proper threaded bolt, we don't need any nut on the far end of the bolt.

I suppose one could use a leather or nylon washer to isolate vibration. I'm not sure the eyelet would be the best place for that, however.
use old inner tube rubber for isolation if you must its cheap as free
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