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Old 08-17-09, 01:24 PM   #1
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The Joe E. Mystery Frame - seattube reamed out

Chapter #3 in the story of the unknown frame: Damaged seat tube + die grinder = ready for thee framebuilder to braze in a new tube:








Yes, yes - I know the seat lug didn't come out too well:




The little tool that made it possible:



-Kurt
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Old 08-17-09, 01:29 PM   #2
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just get a really long seat post: think how much lighter it will be!
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Old 08-17-09, 01:32 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
just get a really long seat post: think how much lighter it will be!


If that was even possible, it would end up weighing more then a 531 or SL tube + a short post.

-Kurt
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Old 08-17-09, 01:36 PM   #4
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I vote for PVC pipe...
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Old 08-17-09, 01:42 PM   #5
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I vote for PVC pipe...
What? And have a frame that rides dead?

-Kurt
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Old 08-17-09, 02:57 PM   #6
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no no no.. carbon fiber!




hahahaha....

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Old 08-17-09, 03:06 PM   #7
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I may have missed an earlier posting about this...

what frame is it that is worth doing that?

hope it is something really special...

or did you do it just because you can?
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Old 08-17-09, 03:27 PM   #8
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looks dangerous
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Old 08-17-09, 03:28 PM   #9
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I may have missed an earlier posting about this...
Here are the originals:
The mystery, English-threaded, Prugnat-lugged frame continues

vintage masi help--please!!!


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what frame is it that is worth doing that?

hope it is something really special...
I have no idea what it is. Nobody has any idea what it is - it is assumed to be a very small, independent job - probably homespun. Whatever it is, it has been built quite nicely, and I dare say there is no harm in giving it a new opportunity on life.


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or did you do it just because you can?
I figured it was a good exercise, and that the frame is worth putting another tube in it.

-Kurt
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Old 08-17-09, 03:57 PM   #10
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hey that works for me...
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Old 08-17-09, 05:04 PM   #11
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Hmmm...interesting. So just slide the new tube in through the seat lug into the bottom bracket shell, a bit of JB Weld, and voila! a new frame!
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Old 08-17-09, 05:11 PM   #12
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A broom stick might work, and also give you an integrated seat post.

Oh - one more thing:



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Old 08-17-09, 05:57 PM   #13
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Is that tool air powered?

I guess you just attacked from the top grinding the tube away, and for the BB just chop the tube close to the bottom and grind the rest out?
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Old 08-17-09, 06:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommisar89 View Post
So just slide the new tube in through the seat lug into the bottom bracket shell, a bit of JB Weld, and voila! a new frame!
Try the expert silver soldering of framebuilder Mike Terraferma.


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Oh - one more thing:
I was waiting for that


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Is that tool air powered?
By a friend's 13-gallon, 4.0HP compressor. The die grinder has a large barrel carbide grinding bit in it - nothing else does the job.


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I guess you just attacked from the top grinding the tube away, and for the BB just chop the tube close to the bottom and grind the rest out?
Precisely. This is the standard modus operandi for removing damaged tubes out of any frame that has been built with brass in the joints. Silver soldered frames, I hear, can have the tubes removed with heat, due to the lower melting temperature.

-Kurt
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Old 08-18-09, 03:50 PM   #15
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Incidentally, does anyone happen to have a spare 531 or SL 27.2 seatpost kicking about they'd sell or trade? The Dedacciai dealer is out for the week.

-Kurt
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Old 08-27-09, 09:11 PM   #16
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JohnDThompson generously offered me a Ishiwata 022 seat tube that arrived in the mail today. I'll probably have it silver soldered by Mike Terraferma over the weekend:



-Kurt
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Old 08-27-09, 09:16 PM   #17
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It ain't right unless you curved (I know there's gotta be a proper term) the bottom of the tube inside the BB shell.
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Old 08-27-09, 09:18 PM   #18
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The correct term is mitered, and any good frame builder should have no problem doing that.
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Old 08-27-09, 09:24 PM   #19
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Mitering shall be done.

-Kurt
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Old 08-27-09, 09:26 PM   #20
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I know miters as straight cuts, like when I install carpentry moldings. On a bike like what would be used on DT the at the head lug. Does the term apply to the rounded forms?
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Old 08-27-09, 09:26 PM   #21
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The correct term is mitered, and any good frame builder should have no problem doing that.
Well.... except Don Mainland sometimes... eh Kurt?
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Old 08-27-09, 09:29 PM   #22
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the real question is what to do about paint.

I suggest just putting a clearcoat over the thing as is, with the raw seat tube. The frame has an interesting legacy, and the paint job should reflect that, and look cool at the same time.
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Old 08-27-09, 09:36 PM   #23
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Well.... except Don Mainland sometimes... eh Kurt?
Exactly.

That, and all second-gen Paramounts had their seat tube mitered to the downtube.

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the real question is what to do about paint.

I suggest just putting a clearcoat over the thing as is, with the raw seat tube. The frame has an interesting legacy, and the paint job should reflect that, and look cool at the same time.
You'll never see me clearcoat a raw frame. The only semi-original paint job on it is the lighter of the two oranges on it now, and even that isn't original, as the seat stays have most likely been replaced once before.

I'm thinking deep metallic blue (or emerald green) with gold lining in the future - but in the meantime, it's going to be double orange with oxide red.

-Kurt
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Old 08-27-09, 10:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I know miters as straight cuts, like when I install carpentry moldings. On a bike like what would be used on DT the at the head lug. Does the term apply to the rounded forms?
Yep, it does. When it's done by machine the cutter is more of a hole saw than the back saw for carpentry mitering. The auto racing guys just call it a fish-mouth instead of a miter.
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Old 08-28-09, 08:14 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
JohnDThompson generously offered me a Ishiwata 022 seat tube that arrived in the mail today. I'll probably have it silver soldered by Mike Terraferma over the weekend:



-Kurt
Looks nice! Be sure to post more pics after it's brazed up.

Are those 16mm seat stays?
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